Rear stabalizer/sway bar

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Mattchou

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Dec 13, 2004
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I am told that midsize pickup trucks don't use a rear stabalizer/sway bar because they are not needed. Is this true?
If this is true would there be a noticable difference in handling in one were to be added?
 
a good front bar would keep body roll down, an empty bed doesn't have much weight in it so it doesn't have much traction over the rear axle. So transferring weight from one rear wheel to the other wouldn't help much. A full bed would sway more but most people don't drive aggressively when loaded.

As doubleclutch notes, the longer your cab, the more predictable your regular rear weight is, and the more fine tuning you can do.
 
So given how much lighter the bed on a 05-06 Tacoma(composite bed)is that a hindrance or help when it comes to handling and traction?
I ask because the rear-end of a truck is light enough without making it lighter by using a composite bed like Toyota did.
I understand the practical(dents) aspect of the bed being made this way but not making the issue of tracation worse.
 
A solid axle with leaf springs gives you some built-in roll resistance compared to an independent suspension. Obviously adding one will make a difference, but whether or not it "needs" it depends on your "needs".

-T
 
Dont go too big on the rear, it will induce severe amounts of oversteer capability in that truck. The main reason OEM doesnt do it besides cost is they believe people are safer in vehicles that understeer. Technically, running better shocks and springs, adding a rear bar and going to a BIGGER front bar, should all be done at the same time for handling purposes.
 
I'm having what is called axel hop. When I'm going into a curve an there is say a expansion gap because there is a bridge/overpass the rearend jumps out.
Will putting a rear stabalize bar help this?
 
quote:
Dont go too big on the rear, it will induce severe amounts of oversteer capability in that truck. The main reason OEM doesnt do it besides cost is they believe people are safer in vehicles that understeer. Technically, running better shocks and springs, adding a rear bar and going to a BIGGER front bar, should all be done at the same time for handling purposes.
Click to expand...
Big 10/4 on that one. I was going to upgrade springs and swaybars on my car and I did the rear first. The difference in the amount of oversteer is impressive. I know how to deal with it but you would't want to hand that package to someone not used to it. It's clearly better to do both at once.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Mattchou:
I'm having what is called axel hop. When I'm going into a curve an there is say a expansion gap because there is a bridge/overpass the rearend jumps out.
Will putting a rear stabalize bar help this?
Click to expand...
More than likely it will exagerate the problem if you are under any power or the road is wet. A rear bar will set you up for oversteer and nothing helps induce oversteer like a sudden loss of rear traction. If you aren't careful, you'll likely be facing the oncoming traffic.

What you are experiencing is the shortcomings of a live axle with a stiff suspension of a truck in reguards to handling. Almost all trucks will experience what you are describing to some extent.

If it really bothered me, lowering the truck, wider tires, slightly softer springs, and more active shocks would be my solution.
 
[/QUOTE]More than likely it will exagerate the problem if you are under any power or the road is wet. A rear bar will set you up for oversteer and nothing helps induce oversteer like a sudden loss of rear traction. If you aren't careful, you'll likely be facing the oncoming traffic.

What you are experiencing is the shortcomings of a live axle with a stiff suspension of a truck in reguards to handling. Almost all trucks will experience what you are describing to some extent.

If it really bothered me, lowering the truck, wider tires, slightly softer springs, and more active shocks would be my solution. [/QB][/QUOTE]

Thanks for your input. Don't need to be facing oncoming traffic.....
shocked.gif

I had the same problem with my '95 GMC Sonoma.
My '06 Frontier NISMO does basically the same thing.
Since it's a 4x4 with the NISMO package I don't think I'll get into lowering it etc. I'll just have to keep on my toes and just be a little more vigilant.
My NISMO
 
When I had a 94 Dodge Dakota "Club Cab" pickup, after about a year I ordered & installed a rear swaybar for it- Helwig I think. It made a *big* difference in sharp turns, & helped on twisty country roads.

After owning the Neon for a few years, I finally managed to get a rear swaybar and a stiffer front bar for it, both OEM for more "serious" versions of the Neon. One bar was from a Neon ACR, the other from an R/T. Best thing I ever did for the Neon, I'm still enjoying the swaybar upgrade!

As for your truck: "would there be a noticable difference in handling in one were to be added? " I'd say that's 99.9% certain.
wink.gif
When I did the Dakota, I put poly bushings on the front bar's endlinks first, even that small addition was easy to feel. After the rear bar was on(all poly bushings came with it), the first time I made a sharp turn under acceleration from a stop sign, I thought *Wow*!

IMO rear anti-sway bars should be standard on *everything*.
cheers.gif
 
Try adding small amount of weight in bed. MUST be something that won't shift or roll! Often make world of difference to a pickup. Many time have seen sections of inner tube filled with sand and ends hose clamped laid behind wheel wells on each side. Can be removed easily if bed space is needed.

Bob
 
One of those Hellwig rear sway bars helped my Ford Ranger a great deal. Ford puts them on F-150s with camper or towing packages, but I dont think the Ranger offered camper or tow packages, at least in 1988.
 
quote:
Originally posted by alreadygone:
Try adding small amount of weight in bed. MUST be something that won't shift or roll! Often make world of difference to a pickup. Many time have seen sections of inner tube filled with sand and ends hose clamped laid behind wheel wells on each side. Can be removed easily if bed space is needed.

Bob
Click to expand...
Never though about using inner tubes so that's a good idea!
Use to put sandbags in my Sonoma for winter. Probably do the same for my Frontier.
Thanks!
 
My '95 F150 had no anti-sway bars. I put a Helwig front bar on and love it. Corners a lot better. Was told a rear bar would not do much on the light truck with a solid axle housing on leaf springs. But have an Aerostar with coil springs in the rear that seems like a rear bar would help (stock has front bar).

I had a Class C motorhome (27') that came with a front bar. I installed a big Helwig bar in the rear that worked nicely but it overwhelmed the stock front bar (I think 1"). I upgraded the front to a IPD that was thicker (I think 1.25")and it improved a lot.
 
Mfrs. don't want the unloaded light end of the pickup swinging around under hard turning and braking conditions.
You can get a lot of suprise oversteer with a big bar and an empty bed.
They often have none, or a small, rear sway bar.
 
The comments about a rear bar upgrade increasing oversteer are right on the mark. Please keep in mind too that if you turn the wheel while on the brakes, or vice-versa, the tendency for the rear to come around will be greater.
 
Did a custom job to put one from a 2000 2500 on my old '91 3/4 ton Dodge and made a world of improvement. These were solid axle with leafs all around and I believe never had any type sway bars front or back until they started offering them on the 350 1-ton's around '92 or '93.

Elfi FYI, the sway bar has nothing to do with weight transfer or traction. It is a device used to control body roll, i.e. the difference in suspension travel between the inboard and outboard sides of the vehicle as the suspension compresses/decompresses in a turn. This effect is more pronounced and dangerous with worn out shocks, poorly designed suspensions and top-heavy trucks (4wd, slide-in campers, etc.).

I would hightly recommend this modification to anyone not comfortable with the way their rear end follows them around through the turns. Fabbing up the axle brackets turned out to be a bit more work than I expected. This was mostly due to the radical design needed to avoid interfering with the brake lines on the driver's side. Nothing fancy really, just a bit odd. It works quite well, though. Truck feels much more stable in the turns now.

http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CDT_25.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CDT_26.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CDT_27.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CDT_28.jpg
 
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