Rear driver side rotor gets hot

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My car is a 13 Civic Si. 2 weeks ago I noticed a burning smell from the rear driver side and soon after a rumbling sound from that area as I released the brake pedal. I took it to the mechanic and he says the caliper was sticking. He replaced the caliper, but the problem of the rotor getting hotter than the others persisted. I took it back, he replaced the caliper again and the rotor was still getting hot. This morning after my drive in to work I took a temp gun to measure the rotors. The other three were at 40-44C and the hot one was at 70C. Seeing as how I've been through 2 calipers, I'm guessing the caliper is not the issue. What else could it be, slide pins, brake hoses, master cylinder, proportioning valve?
 

Astro14

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Brake hose. They fail internally and don't allow the fluid to return to the master...Acting like a one way valve.
 
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Your 'mechanic' should be actually diagnosing the problem, not throwing parts at it. I can see one caliper, maybe, but not two.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Your 'mechanic' should be actually diagnosing the problem, not throwing parts at it. I can see one caliper, maybe, but not two.
This. Also check the parking brake cable.
 

qingcong

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Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Your 'mechanic' should be actually diagnosing the problem, not throwing parts at it.
You don't have tell to me. The guy's a well reviewed Honda/Acura specialist, somehow.
 

qingcong

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Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Your 'mechanic' should be actually diagnosing the problem, not throwing parts at it. I can see one caliper, maybe, but not two.
This. Also check the parking brake cable.
I thought about that, but the brake pad was worn out for that side, and it is only on that side. I think a parking brake issue would not wear the pad out.
 
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If you're saying that on the same caliper, one brake pad was worn out while the other one had plenty of material left, that means the slide pins are not working. You really don't need to go to a supposed Honda expert here, this particular system is pretty much the same on all cars.
 
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If the pad is not down to steel, then all you need is a repaired caliper and a set of pads. Wait and you''ll need a rotor too. The car isn't old enough for a bad hose
 
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The more I think about this it may be a bad caliper, if he bought Cardone or other parts store remans it would be no surprise. If he got it with the bracket it came with new pins. I have seen 3 or 4 bad ones in a row on these integrated e brake calipers. It could be a hose but I would be surprised if an original factory one deteriorated internally in 5 years, worth a look though.
 

qingcong

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Originally Posted By: Trav
The more I think about this it may be a bad caliper, if he bought Cardone or other parts store remans it would be no surprise. If he got it with the bracket it came with new pins. I have seen 3 or 4 bad ones in a row on these integrated e brake calipers. It could be a hose but I would be surprised if an original factory one deteriorated internally in 5 years, worth a look though.
He did use a Cardone for the first caliper. The second one was a Nissin. If it was a hose issue, would the brake caliper eventually release, assuming it wasn't completely clogged? Also, couldn't it just as easily not allow fluid towards the caliper as it would not allow the fluid to return from the caliper? I have been through some salt and there is a portion of the highway on my daily commute where the pavement is loose so it's always shooting up little pebbles and I hear the clink clanging, so I wouldn't be surprised if there was some damage there.
 
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Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Your 'mechanic' should be actually diagnosing the problem, not throwing parts at it. I can see one caliper, maybe, but not two.
This. Also check the parking brake cable.
Parking brake / emergency brake was what I was thinking , also .
 
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That looks just like the ones on my 1994 Civic EX. When the hand brake handle is pulled up, the cable rotates the lever with the spring on it toward the front of the car. This moves a cam inside that pushes the piston out, pressing the pads against the rotor exactly the same as they do with hydraulic pressure from the brake pedal. So when the hand brake handle is down, both of the levers should be in the released position, toward the back of the car.
 
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I just went thru this with a 2006 Pontiac G6. A previous shop replaced the Caliper and didn't solve the issue. I flushed the brake fluid, replaced the brake hose and all was well.
 
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Wow less than 15yrs? Once again I am spoiled by good German parts. The only hose I've ever replaced for failing internally was over 20 yrs. True, the ones on the Rat looked terrible, but they worked @ 18yrs old.
 
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Had this happen on the 2012 Camry with the rear driver's side caliper sticking. New caliper from Napa, ordered a new brake hose from Rockauto, brake flush. And no further issues. I was noticing the trans downshifting on the hwy at the smallest of grades. So it was really dragging. Then had it in at the dealer for an oil change where they notated that wheel was very hot. It had the original brake fluid in it.
 
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