Rear axle delete

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everything you say tracks. The delete should work, based on the information here, assuming that the yoke doesn’t pop out of the PTU/PTO case allowing oil loss or dirt intrusion.

I’ve personally come across a couple of 4x4 trucks, Subarus and AWD bmws with the “other end” removed, even a Range Rover running as a FWD a few years back. You just have to be certain of how the transfer case or PTO works, and the details about yokes falling out.

if there is a true “center diff“ AWD architecture, otoh, the removal of one end will quickly destroy any limited slip component for the diff in the tcase. It does not sound like this is the case with your suv.
 
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I'd be concerned about potential safety issues with your idea. If properly repairing the car buys you another year or two with it then you'll have gotten your money's worth out of the repair. Alternatively, even if you don't repair the car and you just retire it you've certainly done well by getting it to the mileage it has now.
 

OilUzer

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everything you say tracks. The delete should work, based on the information here, assuming that the yoke doesn’t pop out of the PTU/PTO case allowing oil loss or dirt intrusion.

I’ve personally come across a couple of 4x4 trucks, Subarus and AWD bmws with the “other end” removed, even a Range Rover running as a FWD a few years back. You just have to be certain of how the transfer case or PTO works, and the details about yokes falling out.

if there is a true “center diff“ AWD architecture, otoh, the removal of one end will quickly destroy any limited slip component for the diff in the tcase. It does not sound like this is the case with your suv.

Very good point regarding yoke popping out. Need to take that into consideration. Maybe just leave the drive shaft alone and disconnect downstream.
 

OilUzer

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I'd be concerned about potential safety issues with your idea. If properly repairing the car buys you another year or two with it then you'll have gotten your money's worth out of the repair. Alternatively, even if you don't repair the car and you just retire it you've certainly done well by getting it to the mileage it has now.

safety is definitely my concern. I'm doing some brainstorming and will decide later.
this idea of "delete" came to my head (as why not) and it's been fun doing some research and learning ...

Background info:
the car runs very good and is in great shape otherwise. The engine is very powerful with no issues and it has heated wipers, mirrors and seats. everything works and it has been a VERY reliable car. Paint is still in great shape and no interior tears, etc.

I have 2 other cars and wife has a car and I kept this car since it has a known history as we are the original owners. Kept it in case family members are visiting and needing a car ... I also go fishing in the boonies a lot and there has been a lot of break-ins and I don't want to take my nice cars there.

Basically at a point of liking to keep the car but not wanting to spend major $ on it. IF (still a big if) I decide to do the delete and if it for some reason backfires, it won't bother me none! :)

I have time to research and am considering all other options ... I typically don't walk on thin ice so if this gets a green light, it will be successful.
 
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You don't really talk about the conditions under which it makes this noise, but they could help narrow down where the issue lies.

If the symptoms match id definitely be taking a look at that south main auto video if it shoes the same set up. I've got zero interest in Hyundai / Kia and i found it interesting.

For all the reasons you've already been told i'd go with fix or replace the diff before deleting it...

It sounds like based on the south main video you can remove the drive shaft with no issues then but the diff will still be turning so you have to figure a way to take the axles out which is likely going to be remove the gutter CV boots and dissemble the joint leaving the stub axle in place.
 
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You don't really talk about the conditions under which it makes this noise, but they could help narrow down where the issue lies.

If the symptoms match I would definitely be taking a look at that south main auto video if it shows the same set up. I've got zero interest in Hyundai / Kia and I found it interesting.

For all the reasons you've already been told i'd go with fix or replace the diff before deleting it...

It sounds like based on the south main video like you can remove the drive shaft with no issues. However the diff will still be turning so you have to figure out a way to take the axles out which is likely going to be remove the outer CV boots and dissemble the joint leaving the stub axle in place.

Boy - my typing was bad. Corrections above.
 
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You don't really talk about the conditions under which it makes this noise, but they could help narrow down where the issue lies.

If the symptoms match id definitely be taking a look at that south main auto video if it shoes the same set up. I've got zero interest in Hyundai / Kia and i found it interesting.

For all the reasons you've already been told i'd go with fix or replace the diff before deleting it...

It sounds like based on the south main video you can remove the drive shaft with no issues then but the diff will still be turning so you have to figure a way to take the axles out which is likely going to be remove the gutter CV boots and dissemble the joint leaving the stub axle in place.
The OP could remove the coupler and drive shaft. If the sound remains, it's in the diff or other equipment remaining. If it doesn't, it's in the coupler in the video and likely needs the bearing and seal listed in the video description text.

The customer drove the vehicle without the viscous coupler for a day or two until Eric got the parts. The only issue was a warning light on the instrument cluster.
 
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Why not do as another member suggested and buy a used diff? Not much money and then you retain all the features the car came with.
 
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Why not do as another member suggested and buy a used diff? Not much money and then you retain all the features the car came with.
Have we even determined it's the diff and not just the viscous coupler?

Doing the "delete" per the SMA video and driving for a few days to see if the problem is still there is a diagnostic step. If the problem disappears when the coupler and drive shaft are removed, the problem likely is in one of those two components.
 
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Have we even determined it's the diff and not just the viscous coupler?

Doing the "delete" per the SMA video and driving for a few days to see if the problem is still there is a diagnostic step. If the problem disappears when the coupler and drive shaft are removed, the problem likely is in one of those two components.
Good question - I was only going off of OP's claims.
 
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...

Doing the "delete" per the SMA video and driving for a few days to see if the problem is still there is a diagnostic step. If the problem disappears when the coupler and drive shaft are removed, the problem likely is in one of those two components.

True, plus he could feel the bearing even before he took the coupler apart.

Based on the frequency with which the OP says the AWD engages or tries to engage it seems to point away from the coupler... Im not even sure the systems are the same... OP needs to get under there and start giving us details.
 

OilUzer

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I will update.
Friend and I were going to lift the car tomorrow but he was not feeling well and I don't want to catch anything so it may have to wait.
 

Nick1994

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You’d have to remove the driveshaft and both CV axle half shafts. As long as they don’t on externally and fluid isn’t going to come out when they are removed.
 
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I found a used rear diff for $250 off eBay.

Why would you try and monkey something together instead of just replacing it for a couple hundred bucks?
 

OilUzer

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I found a used rear diff for $250 off eBay.

Why would you try and monkey something together instead of just replacing it for a couple hundred bucks?

once we re-confirm the source of the noise, I will decide then.

I assume I can check local junkyards but how does eBay shipping and/or return works for heavy items?

I have had VERY few (under 6 i think) transactions on eBay mainly for new, well know brands and small items like binoculars, etc. and that was LONG time ago.
 
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A couple of thoughts. Many "AWD" systems on the road today are just FWD with occasional RWD automatically clutched-in. Which is fine.

Also "rear diff issue" could be something as simple as a bad input bearing ("outer bearing" number 8 in Hundai parts list linked below). This is an affordable repair, both parts and labor. I wouldn't go buying entire differentials, or doing RWD deletes, before fully checking it out.


 

OilUzer

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@HangFire
good info. Thanks!

wonder if it's the same part the guy in the SMA video (posted earlier) replaced? I need to watch that video again while not watching TV.
I think he was working on an AWD system but externally looks like the same part as my 4WD. Same company as well.
You maybe right. The diff between AWD and 4WD is sometimes foggy like awd vs. full-time awd and syn vs. full syn ... I recall reading about one "AWD" car that engaged when slip was detected which is what my 4WD does.
 
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