Re-Bedding brakes

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

Hey guys,

I have a 2002 Trans-Am which I installed :

-C6 Z06 rotors
-CTSV brake calipers and pads

I installed these in 2022 - have been beautiful, however I did not run any bedding process in, now I feel a slight judder around 100KM/H when braking. I notice some pad deposits (What I suspect to be anyway) on rotor. Car is currently stored for the season, but I did a brake service and honed/sanded the rotor without going crazy. do you think it's worth running a bedding process next spring to even out deposits, or should I swap discs and pads while it's stored for winter?

 

[Pew]

Yes I would strongly recommend bedding in the pads. Drilled/slotted rotors can also cause vibrations, although I only feel those around 65kmph (40mph).

There's also a chance it could be lower control arm (or was it tie rods I think?) but I'd definitely bed the pads to see if it improves before spending money.

 

[Mainia]

I have had good results in bedding in older brakes on friends and family members cars. It's all about heat and getting the pad material to transfer to the rotors. I don't see the blue ting color in your rotor, so I don't think you got then up to temperature. If that is rust on your rotor, it is not what I would want to see. Once they start rusting they micro pinhole, and that is rotor cancer, with the high iron content in rotors. You might want to drive the car around the block with heavy braking more often, if it is a classic car mostly stored.

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

Hey, never sees water or moisture, I think that brown is pad deposits honestly - I will try and good heat cycle bed process next spring before I drop any money!

 

[CarlB]

You might want to try brushing the holes as deposits can form. Next time you replace the rotors avoid drilled entirely.

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

These were GM original rotors, I think if it doesnt correct with a bedding I will run :

AKEBONO ASP1001 - Performance Ceramic Pad
CENTRIC 12562102 - High Carbon Alloy
-Blank discs no drills or slots.

 

[kebabaluba]

I would not bother unless the vibration is severe and affects driving or a failure at inspection.

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

I would not bother unless the vibration is severe and affects driving or a failure at inspection.

Its smooth at lower speeds, but under moderate braking around 80-100KmH there is a noticable judder in steering wheel

 

[kebabaluba]

Its smooth at lower speeds, but under moderate braking around 80-100KmH there is a noticable judder in steering wheel

That judder are not ideal, and also it seems like there is a bit of uneven wear at the bottom of the rotor.

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

That judder are not ideal, and also it seems like there is a bit of uneven wear at the bottom of the rotor.

Think a bedding run is worth it next spring, or just swap on some new parts while its parked?

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

Yes I would strongly recommend bedding in the pads. Drilled/slotted rotors can also cause vibrations, although I only feel those around 65kmph (40mph).

There's also a chance it could be lower control arm (or was it tie rods I think?) but I'd definitely bed the pads to see if it improves before spending money.

Every bit of the chassis components is new on this one, front and back.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

I think that the akebono ceramic do not require a break in?
Does the intensity of the problem change with the force of brake application?
Did you check for runout when installing the brakes?

 

[Mechanician]

You are describing warped rotors.
Once the rotors are uneven, bedding isn't going to fix them.
It only takes a very small amount of parallelism, compared to run-out, to cause a pulsation.
Run out can be caused by other parts like the hubs.

 

[kebabaluba]

Think a bedding run is worth it next spring, or just swap on some new parts while its parked?

It`s your money, but bedding run are free, so is removing the pads and inspect them and rotors better if the car is parked for the season. But if the brakes was smooth for two years and you have judder now, probably rotors are beyond saving.

 

[Dr_Dr3i]

I would certainly try re-bedding them in first.

Do 8-10 hard stops from 60mph almost to zero, but not stopping. Don't let the brakes get cool between runs, do them one right after the other (obviously on a clear road with minimal traffic). Once you've done 7 or 8, you should start to smell the brakes as they should be quite hot. Do a couple more for good measure, then drive around for several minutes without touching the brakes to let them cool down. You should be good after that.

You don't want your front end pulsating/shuddering/bouncing under braking. Not only does it not feel nice on a car you just worked on, but it quickly wears out struts and other items that shouldn't be shaken too much too often.

 

[CarlB]

These were GM original rotors, I think if it doesnt correct with a bedding I will run :

AKEBONO ASP1001 - Performance Ceramic Pad
CENTRIC 12562102 - High Carbon Alloy
-Blank discs no drills or slots.

Lotta OEMs will use drilled because of the public perception/style associated with them.

If bedding doesn't help. You can feel for raised deposits on the holes by hand, then just use a wire brush/wheel to try and knock them down.

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

Ya.. took this time to order those :
AKEBONO ASP1001 - Performance Ceramic Pad
CENTRIC 12562102 - High Carbon Alloy

Also figure I'd change the RF bearing since LF is newer, might aswell do it while Im there!

Thanks guys

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Since you got the bearing out any interest in checking it for runout?

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

Since you got the bearing out any interest in checking it for runout?

I had no real drivability issues out of it, its just 22 years old so I figure I'd pop one in while I had brakes off.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Well it rules out a possible cause? Perhaps there was enough wear there in 22 years for it to be not square anymore ?