Raybestos EHT3 Brakes squeaking

[partspro]

2009 Toyota Sienna. I installed both front and rear brakes, including rotors. All are Raybestos EHT. The rear brakes are squeaking because of the shim. The shims are a tad loose, so I had to bend tabs a bit to get them fit tightly. I did clean and lubed the brake hardware. I applied silicone grease on the pins and Permatex purple grease on the calipers' ears only. Now, they are still squeaking because of the shim shifting. I did not apply any grease on the backing plate of the brakes. I find that the shims are the weakness on these. Any tips?

Replacing all pads at the same time is ... troublesome to say the least. as others have posted, clean, lube tighten, etc, one axle at a time, follow the recommended break-in process. Usually progressively harder stops. Then do the rears. Trav posted the best stuff to put on the back of the shim.
Some vehicles are problematic, Toyota pads may well be the best.

 

[Luftmasse]

Can confirm installed on a Pilot and Venza as my go to powerstops were not available. Both squeal under light pressure. They do stop well but are noisy

Yep. They only squeak under light pressure.

 

[Luftmasse]

Pass on that stuff, better? Highly doubtful, like their purple crap dries out and everything sticks, horrible stuff that isn't worth the cheap plastic bottle it comes in.

The Permatex Purple Ceramic Solid is high temp and it is thick. It gives a cushion on metal to metal contacts. I only apply it where the caliper meets the shim and underneath the brake hardware. It lasts quite a long time and does not wash off. The CRC in my experience washes off and it is not thick enough to seperate the metal to metal contacts. After car washes and rain it will wash some away. I do not use it on the brake pads ears, so it is not an issue. But to each their own.

 

[Luftmasse]

I dislike the purple permatex ceramic I've had it get gritty before.. and it also swells the rubber bushings on some guide pins.
I would probably consider it to be the worst product I've ever used.

I use sil-glyde on the pins, but the pastelub is a large % moly and graphite it doesnt get gritty when it ages/dries out and gets exposed to the elements.

I only use the purple stuff on specific places on metal to metal contacts.

 

[Trav]

How did you clean the new rotors, hopefully not with Brake Cleaner. Wash them with Dish Soap and Water. remember cleaning the little ducks from the Oil spill. Shims can be and are a pain in the Rear. That's why I liked Wagner Thermo Quites.

I don't do anything to them, I use only coated rotors and they are dry. Non-coated rotors that have an oil film on them are not the product if you expect long service life in the rust belt but even when they were the only thing available brake cleaner was fine, wear a proper mask you dont want to breath it. Yes soapy water is much more user friendly.

 

[diyjake]

For the last 5-6 brake jobs that I used using EHT3 pads and I really like the pads but their hardware needs some improvement and that is somewhat to be expected when using non oem parts so I just learned to deal with it.

First time using EHT3 on my Sienna on front passenger side the shim got lose from the brake pad and started scraping like crazy so I learned to make sure to the ears on the shims are tight when I put them on the pads.

 

[Luftmasse]

For the last 5-6 brake jobs that I used using EHT3 pads and I really like the pads but their hardware needs some improvement and that is somewhat to be expected when using non oem parts so I just learned to deal with it.

First time using EHT3 on my Sienna on front passenger side the shim got lose from the brake pad and started scraping like crazy so I learned to make sure to the ears on the shims are tight when I put them on the pads.

I concur and can relate to this. Does your Sienna squeaks when braking lightly after adjusting the shims? What is bizarre is after lubing and adjusting the shims, few weeks later it still squeaks when light braking.

 

[The Critic]

Just buy new pads before the driver "fires you."

 

[diyjake]

I concur and can relate to this. Does your Sienna squeaks when braking lightly after adjusting the shims? What is bizarre is after lubing and adjusting the shims, few weeks later it still squeaks when light braking.

I don't remember it squeaking after I adjusted and re-lubed them but I sure was not happy that it came apart. After that the brakes were fine for about 10k miles until I sold the van.

 

[Luftmasse]

Just buy new pads before the driver "fires you."

I had high hopes for this Raybestos EHT. I think I will stick with OE next time. I guess you get what you paid for...

 

[demarpaint]

I've done a total of 6 brake jobs with these brakes and rotors so far and had no issues. I use Permatex disk brake quiet on the pad backs, their green grease for the pad ears, etc. and Syl-Glyde on the slide pins. The rotors were cleaned carefully with a rag and disk brake cleaner. My Liberty has about 20k on the rear brakes, and 5 k on the front and they're nice and quiet. There's about 10 K miles on my father's Subaru brakes, and two friends are happy with them as well.

 

[Luftmasse]

I've done a total of 6 brake jobs with these brakes and rotors so far and had no issues. I use Permatex disk brake quiet on the pad backs, their green grease for the pad ears, etc. and Syl-Glyde on the slide pins. The rotors were cleaned carefully with a rag and disk brake cleaner. My Liberty has about 20k on the rear brakes, and 5 k on the front and they're nice and quiet. There's about 10 K miles on my father's Subaru brakes, and two friends are happy with them as well.

I was planning to try the Permatex disk brake quiet. That was the only thing I haven't done. Also, I don't lube the pads' ears. It's personal preference.

 

[wing0]

I've put the pads on 2 cars with various types of rotors. No squeak under light braking.
Happier with them than Akebono proact in terms of braking performance.

 

[demarpaint]

I was planning to try the Permatex disk brake quiet. That was the only thing I haven't done. Also, I don't lube the pads' ears. It's personal preference.

Give it a try, it has never let me down. Regarding the pad ears, I live in the rust belt, for me lubing the pad ears is a must. I'd lube them no matter where I live.

 

[The Critic]

Give it a try, it has never let me down. Regarding the pad ears, I live in the rust belt, for me lubing the pad ears is a must. I'd lube them no matter where I live.

I can understand the purpose of lubing between the bracket and the bracket clips. The caliper bracket is uncoated metal and can rust.

But the hardware is stainless and the pads are painted, so there really isn't a need for lube on the pad ears.

 

[Luftmasse]

Give it a try, it has never let me down. Regarding the pad ears, I live in the rust belt, for me lubing the pad ears is a must. I'd lube them no matter where I live.

The problem with lubing the pad ears is it will accumulate dust/debris and cause the brake pads to be stuck. But if it is working for you, by all means continue doing what you have been doing.

 

[meep]

I’ve installed two sets. I used the red brake quiet goo both times… the stuff that goes on wet but dries kinda like pencil eraser rubber after heat cycles?

one wheel on the Lexus squeaked after, but it also did before. Over time, it has stopped. These pads seem more aggressive on the rotors and seem to have effectively bed themselves with no fancy steps from me. They are now silent in both vehIcles.

my failsafe has always been to spin the rotors under the pressure of a belt sander to rough the surface and break any glaze. the back side might have to be done by hand if you can’t flip it over and temporarily bolt it down so it spins inside-out.

 

[Trav]

I can understand the purpose of lubing between the bracket and the bracket clips. The caliper bracket is uncoated metal and can rust.

But the hardware is stainless and the pads are painted, so there really isn't a need for lube on the pad ears.

May be in Cal but in the rust belt you better be lubing the pad ears.

 

[The Critic]

May be in Cal but in the rust belt you better be lubing the pad ears.

Out here, anything more than a barely visible film of lube on the pad ears will turn into “mud” on the sliding surfaces. It actually makes the situation worse.

 

[demarpaint]

The problem with lubing the pad ears is it will accumulate dust/debris and cause the brake pads to be stuck. But if it is working for you, by all means continue doing what you have been doing.

It has to be done here. They accumulate dust, but rust is worse.