2009 Toyota Sienna. I installed both front and rear brakes, including rotors. All are Raybestos EHT. The rear brakes are squeaking because of the shim. The shims are a tad loose, so I had to bend tabs a bit to get them fit tightly. I did clean and lubed the brake hardware. I applied silicone grease on the pins and Permatex purple grease on the calipers' ears only. Now, they are still squeaking because of the shim shifting. I did not apply any grease on the backing plate of the brakes. I find that the shims are the weakness on these. Any tips?
Raybestos EHT3 Brakes squeaking
- Thread starter Luftmasse
- Start date
Remove the shims, apply a coat of the purple permatex onto the back of the shim, tighten the tab, and reinstall the shim.
IME these pads are noisy. But it seems like a lot of people on this site have success with them.
IME these pads are noisy. But it seems like a lot of people on this site have success with them.
That is the only place I did not applied lube. I was afraid it might make the shim shift more with the grease. What happens if the shim still shifts?
It might fly off and get stuck.
Tighten the tabs a bit more. I have not had any issues with shims shifting.
I hope for the best. But thanks for the advise! I was thinking of getting the spray can brake quiet (sticky stuff) and spray it on the back.It might fly off and get stuck.
Tighten the tabs a bit more. I have not had any issues with shims shifting.
I put the EHT3 on my daughters 2012 Scion xB a few months ago (pads only, kept rotors) and have no issue with them so far (just a few thousand miles on them though).
I did put the purple Permatex stuff on the pad ears and on the calipers where they touch the pads.
I did put the purple Permatex stuff on the pad ears and on the calipers where they touch the pads.
Can confirm installed on a Pilot and Venza as my go to powerstops were not available. Both squeal under light pressure. They do stop well but are noisy
Did you had problems with the shims fitting a little loose?
No car or pad is immune from this, some pads will make more noise than others on certain cars but its easy to almost or completely eliminate.
Make sure the shims are tight and all sliding surfaces on the bracket are clean and shiny, if the bracket is heavily rusted take a file to it to at least smooth it, a few pits are not an issue.
Coat all surfaces and the outside of the shims with CRC brake lube, it has silicone, moly, teflon, graphite and stays for a long time. Do not use this on pins, for those Sil-Glyde or silicone grease. The CRC is made for shimmed pads and works very well at reducing vibration which is the root cause of brake noise. These are the only two products I use now, after trying most of the products on the market nothing works better.
Make sure the shims are tight and all sliding surfaces on the bracket are clean and shiny, if the bracket is heavily rusted take a file to it to at least smooth it, a few pits are not an issue.
Coat all surfaces and the outside of the shims with CRC brake lube, it has silicone, moly, teflon, graphite and stays for a long time. Do not use this on pins, for those Sil-Glyde or silicone grease. The CRC is made for shimmed pads and works very well at reducing vibration which is the root cause of brake noise. These are the only two products I use now, after trying most of the products on the market nothing works better.
Sometimes it is best to use OE or reuse the ones on the car, most clips are stainless and are fine. Most aftermarket ones that are included are not very good.
Thanks for tip. The Raybestos did come with brand new brake hardware which I forgot to mention. And did used them. I also thoroughly cleaned the brake caliper bracket well. I did lubed the caliper pins with silicone. I also lubed the caliper ears and piston. I did not lube the back of the shims because I thought it will shim shift. I also did not lube the place where the brake pad sits because of buildup. So I will try lubing the back of the shim as The_Critic had suggested. Fingers crossed.
This is my first experience with Raybetos EHT brakes. I never had this problem with OE and Akebonos. I wanted to try the Raybetos EHT because of many people are saying they are good including yourself.
Thanks for the tip. I will check them again.
Interesting, I use goodson Pastelub over 40% solids.
Permatex is also solids. IMO, these are better than the CRC Synthetic grease. Its rated 3000 F high temp.
I dislike the purple permatex ceramic I've had it get gritty before.. and it also swells the rubber bushings on some guide pins.
I would probably consider it to be the worst product I've ever used.
I use sil-glyde on the pins, but the pastelub is a large % moly and graphite it doesnt get gritty when it ages/dries out and gets exposed to the elements.
I would probably consider it to be the worst product I've ever used.
I use sil-glyde on the pins, but the pastelub is a large % moly and graphite it doesnt get gritty when it ages/dries out and gets exposed to the elements.
Not that I noticed. Everything seems to go together just fine and the shims were no issue at all.
Pass on that stuff, better? Highly doubtful, like their purple crap dries out and everything sticks, horrible stuff that isn't worth the cheap plastic bottle it comes in.
How did you clean the new rotors, hopefully not with Brake Cleaner. Wash them with Dish Soap and Water. remember cleaning the little ducks from the Oil spill. Shims can be and are a pain in the Rear. That's why I liked Wagner Thermo Quites.