Ravenol RSP vs REP vs DXG

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Maybe I'm missing something. Are you sure 2500 mls is even necessary?
How many miles per year? How many trackdays? Is the engine still stock?
Did you have a UOA performed yet? Any other measures provided yet to
gain better engine reliability? What are your oil temps?
I'm not convinced if some particular special kind of oil is actually required.
Perhaps very most decently stout 5W-30/5W-40 would suffice and probably
any VW 511 00 & Porsche C40 should do. The picture still isn't clear though,
there's still a lack of data.
.
 

03marin

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Maybe I'm missing something. Are you sure 2500 mls is even necessary?
How many miles per year? How many trackdays? Is the engine still stock?
Did you have a UOA performed yet? Any other measures provided yet to
gain better engine reliability? What are your oil temps?
I'm not convinced if some particular special kind of oil is actually required.
Perhaps very most decently stout 5W-30/5W-40 would suffice and probably
any VW 511 00 & Porsche C40 should do. The picture still isn't clear though,
there's still a lack of data.

Maybe I'm missing something. Are you sure 2500 mls is even necessary?
How many miles per year? How many trackdays? Is the engine still stock?
Did you have a UOA performed yet? Any other measures provided yet to
gain better engine reliability? What are your oil temps?
I'm not convinced if some particular special kind of oil is actually required.
Perhaps very most decently stout 5W-30/5W-40 would suffice and probably
any VW 511 00 & Porsche C40 should do. The picture still isn't clear though,
there's still a lack of data.
.
"Necessary" is relative I guess. I would like to get 2500-3k miles on an oil change tho, that way I'm not changing oil ever 9-10 tanks of gas.

It's a track car, not a daily driver, so the majority of mileage on this car is tracks, or driven VERY hard in the mountains/canyons. The only time this car is pulled out of the garage, when not being trailered to the track, is to be driven/tested in the mountains or canyons.

Internals are stock, but I'm pushing 30lbs of boost into it now. It has all the supporting mods needed (bigger intercooler, piping, radiator, oil cooler, etc, etc).

Yes, I have done a UOA, I posted it earlier in this thread. It was by Blackstone. The UOA came out very well, except for the shearing.

The oils temps are very low. In fact, Amsoil believes that I'm not getting th oil hot enough. 110* track days, and the oil never gets over 230*.....at most, and water temps stay at 215*. Just driving around normally, the oil temps are 175-188*, and water temps are only about 4* higher than that.

I don't think a "special" oil is required either. I'm just trying to find something that I can get 3k miles out of, and won't lose viscosity below a 30wt oil.
 
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03marin

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A 40 or even a 50-grade oil. MOFT is definitely your friend here.
MOFT?
I'm kind of worried about going too thick. It was special for 5w20 in the US, but 5w30 everywhere else. So maybe a thin 40wt? Or that higher HTHS Redline 5w30?
 
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MOFT?
I'm kind of worried about going too thick. It was special for 5w20 in the US, but 5w30 everywhere else. So maybe a thin 40wt? Or that higher HTHS Redline 5w30?
Minimum Oil Film Thickness - the thing that actually protects your engine.

You're worried about what exactly? No engine is damaged by a higher HT/HS, only one that is too low. Some/most engines can tolerate lower viscosity oils under most circumstances but that does not mean it will be harmed or adversely affected by an oil with a higher HT/HS. Other than fuel economy of course but that is a very small difference and it doesn't appear to be the primary concern for your driving habits.
 

03marin

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Minimum Oil Film Thickness - the thing that actually protects your engine.

You're worried about what exactly? No engine is damaged by a higher HT/HS, only one that is too low. Some/most engines can tolerate lower viscosity oils under most circumstances but that does not mean it will be harmed or adversely affected by an oil with a higher HT/HS. Other than fuel economy of course but that is a very small difference and it doesn't appear to be the primary concern for your driving habits.
I'm worried about an oil being "too thick", ie: getting into the bearings, journal's, tolerances, etc.

Lol. You're right, I definitely do not care about fuel mileage. Ethanol alone cut my mileage by almost 30%
 
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I'm worried about an oil being "too thick", ie: getting into the bearings, journal's, tolerances, etc.
The oil pump takes care of that.

If an engine was damaged by oil that was too thick then every engine starting at any temperature below normal operating temperature would be at risk. That’s simply not the case. If the oil can be pumped (and this is represented by the winter rating) then it will get into the bearings, the journals and everywhere else regardless of the clearances. Any oil that is cold is far more viscous than the relatively small differences between grades at operating temperature.
 

03marin

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The oil pump takes care of that.

If an engine was damaged by oil that was too thick then every engine starting at any temperature below normal operating temperature would be at risk. That’s simply not the case. If the oil can be pumped (and this is represented by the winter rating) then it will get into the bearings, the journals and everywhere else regardless of the clearances. Any oil that is cold is far more viscous than the relatively small differences between grades at operating temperature.
Ok, that makes sense then. So in my case, would it be better to use a "thick" 30wt (Redline 5w30) or a "thin" 40wt (Castrol 0w40 or similar)?
 
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It won’t matter. The HT/HS is what matters not the grade. But you really need to determine the extent of your fuel dilution first, and positively establish that’s the problem or if it’s actual mechanical shear.
 

03marin

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It won’t matter. The HT/HS is what matters not the grade. But you really need to determine the extent of your fuel dilution first, and positively establish that’s the problem or if it’s actual mechanical shear.
How do I go about doing that?
I don't think Blackstone has that particular test.
 
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How do I go about doing that?
I don't think Blackstone has that particular test.
Resurrecting an old topic thread to answer this question. Find a different lab which can accurately determine fuel dilution. Viscosity loss w/out fuel is mechanical shear.
 
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I never thought of Ravenol as a top shelf oil but more of a mid tier. Castrol 0w40, Mobil 1 5w30 esp or Mobil 1 0w40 will work as well as anything you can buy in that engine. Don't buy into the advertising or boutique BS, many are more sizzle than steak. JM2C

ravenol a mid tier oil. i'm dying. 😆
 
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My frd has a Ford Fiesta ST 1.6 turbo I heard it is quite demanding on oil. I think he uses 0W40 on it with nice results.
 
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ravenol a mid tier oil. i'm dying. 😆
Virtually the only oil on the market with completely disclosed and stated ingredients. Yes, bragging with tri-nuclear moly, OFC and tungsten as well as PAO+Esters 100% synthetic base and 256°C flash point and 6% volatility...
BTW, the new DXG has HTHS 3.25. I use it for two days now.

There isn't better oil known to man.
 
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