Rate The Oil Mixing Scenarios (mix friendly posts only, please)

[vwoom]

I'm doing a #9 currently in my hi-mile project 190E(previous fils were dinos all the way). Initial findings of 200mi run of pure 100% Valvoline Synpower 10w30 was too thin for the engine and consumes/leaks more. A 5oz of Synpower Oil Treatment was added to give it some moly.

Current mix of same fill is 82.4% Grp III Synpower 10w30 + 17.5% Grp II+ Chevron Supreme 10w40(now 1k+ miles old) and the car now purrs way better. Based on the visco calc I still have 10w30. The Chevron had darken the fill of the otherwise light honey colored Valvoline and had thicken it to my liking. It even slowed down some of the leaking.

One thing I noticed at 600mi with this mix after a long fwy run..the oil had darkened considerably!

I'll be also doing Experiment #5 on this car for the next oci. Probably shooting for 60-80% Grp II+ Delo 15w40 + 40-20% Redline 5w30 or Grp III Havoline Synthetic 5w30 in the coming hotter months of summer...I'll see how it "brews out".

[ May 31, 2005, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: vwoom ]

 

[Audi Junkie]

As time goes on, I've come full-circle. I'm, willing to blend within product lines, ie: 10w30 & 10w-40, but most synth/dino/whatever mixes scare me. Some additives work only with certian basestocks, who knows if a soup changes it further. I did see Mola or someone mention how certain newer additives can increase friction in the presence of moly. Sorry to be such a downer. I still mix all the Chevron products like crazy.

Seems like the safest bet around if you like mixing. Delo + GF-4 Havoline + Havoline Synth = Ok.

All G-II, II+ & G-III!

 

[crashz]

I'm gonna experiment with 3 quarts Delvac 1300 and 3 quarts of M1 0w-40. My goals are to reduce the lifter tick I get on straight 1300 at start up and reduce the amount of lag in the engine when the oil is warming up. Seems like the truck needs a long time to warm up the oil enough to flow easily, but once warm the 40 weight oils shine.

Oh yeah, I really didn't want to spend the cash for a full 7 qrts (1 for top off) of 0w-40 M1. And I like the D/D package that is offered by the Delvac 1300.

 

[VaderSS]

Roughly 3.5 quarts of Mobil 1 0W40
Roughly 1.5 quarts of Gold GC
5oz of LC with 1 oz adds every 1k
12 oz of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment

I put the Synpower in, thinking the extra moly would be good for the new 1.6 rocker arms. Just now read that Molakule suggests 1 oz per quart, LOL.

 

[beanoil]

I recently ran 3q of SuperTech (Warren) 5-30, and 1q of Castrol 20-50 Syntec, with 5 oz. of Maxlife engine protector. I was concerned about the SuperTech being a "weak" oil based on some reads here, and had both oils on hand in my stash. I ran 2500 miles in one week, and changed the oil when I got back home. During the trip, initially, the oil was so clear, I had a hard time reading it visually on the stick at fuel stops. When I drained it, it was honey colored, and "flowed" smoothly out of the drain: not a rush of fluid like my usual drain of straight 5-30 dino. Gas milage was virtually identical on my trip, and the engine was very smooth and quiet, even in 95 degree, and mountain driving. Even with brand differences, I feel that a mix is harmless, and in many cases can be a benefit not provided by off the shelf products.

 

[pruizgarcia]

4-qts M1 10W30 EP w/4 oz of SX-Up in my spouse's Mitsu Eclipse.

 

[paulinfiji]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Hirev:
It should be good for 30 more horespower.

---

No oil can increase horsepower by that much.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

quote:

---

Originally posted by crashz:
I'm gonna experiment with 3 quarts Delvac 1300 and 3 quarts of M1 0w-40.

---

I am one of the most frequent amateur mixologists to post on this board. I would never mix any of these 0W oils though. They are a different breed of oils -- different components that allow them to perform so well at startup despite their thicker viscosities. You will play mayhem with all the modifiers & balancers in this oil mixing it with normal oils of the past.

Leave the 0W's to themselves. They do their work very well being alone.

Just my amateur opinion based on what I've read on the 0W's. I don't think it's necessary to pull the oil if you've already placed a mix inside your engine. I would just shorten your OCI to around half because you may have reduced the effectiveness of the base oils for both right in half. I don't think you did any damage to the add-packs unless only one oil contains any components missing from the other. That would thin out/reduce it's working capabilities. Not sure if any are missing from your mix ... being both are the same company. But your two base oils are on completely opposites sides of the applicable oil spectrum.

I always try to stay in-house when mixing like you did with the 0W and Delvac.... ie.. like Chevron, Havoline & Delo -- or Mobil, Exxon & Delvac -- or Conoco, Motorcraft, Trop Artic & Kendall.... etc... etc. I always make sure a VOA is available before I mix. I look over the list of ingredients in both oils before I mix. But I never mix any 0W's.... I just don't trust their mixing effectiveness. I would feel safer just using a dino.

[ September 04, 2005, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]

 

['00obw]

well, I'll found out in a few weeks when I do a UOA on my GC and M-1 0w20 mix....7 months and ~6500 miles.

Originally posted by Triple_Se7en:

quote:

---

I am one of the most frequent amateur mixologists to post on this board. I would never mix any of these 0W oils though. They are a different breed of oils -- different components that allow them to perform so well at startup despite their thicker viscosities. You will play mayhem with all the modifiers & balancers in this oil mixing it with normal oils of the past.

Leave the 0W's to themselves. They do their work very well being alone.

Just my amateur opinion based on what I've read on the 0W's. I don't think it's necessary to pull the oil if you've already placed a mix inside your engine. I would just shorten your OCI to around half because you may have reduced the effectiveness of the base oils for both right in half. I don't think you did any damage to the add-packs unless only one oil contains any components missing from the other. That would thin out/reduce it's working capabilities. Not sure if any are missing from your mix ... being both are the same company. But your two base oils are on completely opposites sides of the applicable oil spectrum.

I always try to stay in-house when mixing like you did with the 0W and Delvac.... ie.. like Chevron, Havoline & Delo -- or Mobil, Exxon & Delvac -- or Conoco, Motorcraft, Trop Artic & Kendall.... etc... etc. I always make sure a VOA is available before I mix. I look over the list of ingredients in both oils before I mix. But I never mix any 0W's.... I just don't trust their mixing effectiveness. I would feel safer just using a dino.

---

 

[Triple_Se7en]

quote:

---

Originally posted by '00obw:
well, I'll found out in a few weeks when I do a UOA on my GC and M-1 0w20 mix....7 months and ~6500 miles.

---

Those are both 0W oils. I never said you should not mix OW oils. I said you should not mix the OWs with 5-10-15-20W/ or monograde oils. Also... I never said a bad UOA would always occur if you didn't stay in-house when you mixed & ran that many miles.

This will be a good test to see how both base oils hold up. Alot of the add-pack components are the same for both oils you used. Lets see what the TBN reads with this mix/what number the viscosity reads.

[ September 04, 2005, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]

 

[Bowser]

quote:

---

Originally posted by TEXDOG:
T.P. please consider THE TEXAS BREW

70% M1 5w30 30% M1 15/50

---

I like scernio #1

This has been my formula (3:2 ratio) M1 5w30/15w50 racing in my 5.7 90' Silverado... I plan on doing it in my 2001 5.3 Silverado, but with (5:1 ratio) regular M1 5w30 blended with M1 15w50 Extended Performance.

BTW- Going with either M1 or Pure One filters.

Bowser "Grease for Peace"

 

[goodvibes]

I like the idea of a GR 2 plus a qt of Redline but I think the mix will be determined by the OCI. I change at 5k. I'm sure that certain oils regardless of group will mix better than others based on the additive package. I think that Havoline/Chevron + Redline may be good and I'd like see some Tropartic/Motorcraft + Redline results.

 

[Steelhead]

what engine, Ferrari Enzo V12 48 valve 4 cammer 660 hp at 7800 rpm
or, a Chev oil dipper babbit beater 6 inline
??

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

quote:

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Originally posted by Steelhead:
what engine, Ferrari Enzo V12 48 valve 4 cammer 660 hp at 7800 rpm
or, a Chev oil dipper babbit beater 6 inline
??

---

What's the difference?

As long as I use Prolong or Duralube, I'm set. LOL

Seriously, that's a great point!

Does BITOG have a sticky that has a continuum of engines or engine designs and how hard they are on oil , or what sort of oils and additives work best in that engine type?

Type of valve train, distributor gears, timing chain or belt, bearing clearances, power output , operating environment and use all come into play.

My solution is to use what I hope is a top oil like Redline, Mobil 1, or a Group III 'conventional' oil and maybe some additives like Moly, or ZDDP and exceed the minimum standards for any engine.

Other people like GC or Amsoil, or we look at UOA's .

Is there a better way to think about this?

On newer vehicles it seems that more companies will have target specs so that should help. But what about older vehicles, or modified vehicles?

[ September 05, 2005, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: Thatwouldbegreat ]

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

 

[TallPaul]

Since my stash includes:

Durablend
Maxlife
Citgo Ultralife
Pennzoil Synthetic
Pennzoil Platinum
Havoline Synthetic
Redline
Castrol StartUp
Valvoline VR-1 Racing
Synpower

I thought mixing a brew of about half a quart of each of the above might make a fun batch for an OCI. Bet it would be no problem either. Hmmm, maybe thrown in some VSOT too.

 

[bob_ninja]

Based on what I learned here, future plans:
Civic 120K km, burns some
summer 1L Esso XD-3 0W30 (PAO), 1L Pennzoil 10W30 (dino), 1.5L QS Peak Performance 5W30 (dino)
Mazda Protege 50K, 1L Esso XD-3 0W30, 2.5L QS Peak Performance

May top up (mix in) with Castrol Syntec 5W50 or whatever heavier grade I have in hot July/Aug months.

winter Mazda & Honda CRV 40K km both the same mix:
1L Mobil1 0W20, rest Esso XD-3 0W30