Range Rover Steering Very Loose Tighten Nut On Box

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My friend has a 2001 range rover with 80,000 miles on it...The steering was very loose and the stealer said it would cost about $3000.00 to fix
I looked at it and it felt very loose at the steering wheel and when you drive it but everything seemed tight checking under the truck except the steering box had a lot of play so i turned the adjustment bolt and used an allen key to adjust it in and now it seems great... Why didnt the fromt end shop or the dealer do this?
Is there something i don't see? Everything seems fine
 
But does it now Bind at full steering lock?
Wear tends to take place close to the straight ahead, mid position. Less wear occurs when the wheel is turned off-center.
 
I have not worked on a range rover, but most vehicles have some kind of universal joint about half way along the shaft from the steering wheel and the steering box. Sometimes it is a rag joint, made of leather, or it could be a small universal joint.

Check for play at this joint. It can cause too much slop in the steering wheel, and is much lower cost than a new steering box.
 
In the Mercedes manual for 1990 vehicles it does say to torque the steering box bolts from time to time. Probably the same for the Land Rover. Bolts do vibrate loose over time. So its best to check them once a year.
 
they wanted to replace lots of stuff even the tie rods that are still in good shape there was a whole list of things i saw on the estimate...
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
they wanted to replace lots of stuff even the tie rods that are still in good shape there was a whole list of things i saw on the estimate...
did you go in their "solely" for the steering problem? Or for a "free inspection" type service? I know some shops will throw the long list at you if you go in for one of their "Free Inspections" - kinda like hte local ma and pop shop, only open 4 days a week (Tues-Friday) - but they're having a "special" for Mother's Day tomorrow, touting "free inspections" lol......tempted to go with my mother, just for the [censored] of it and see what kind of stuff they try throwing my way.
 
Steering boxes gear train is usually ground with some slop off center so as wear is adjusted out the ends of travel don't get too tight, but yes he should check for binding anyway.

At the least, the front wheels should be off the ground when checking for binding. It's better to disconnect the linkage from the steering arm when checking for steering box slop and binding.
 
I adjusted my '80 Firebird's steering the same way. These older units were always kind'a loose even when new(I've had 4 of them) + many early GM's from '68 onward.

You have to know just how much to adjust! I can't say that I know personaly but, you have to adjust, test, backoff some, test...you get the point!

If you adjust too much and you'll hear the pump stressing and you'll loose the steering return although it may feel nice and tight on center. Then you'll know that the unit/adjustment screw needs to be brought back until you find a happy medium.

My BIL doesn't recomend doing this as he said you can blow the HP line and damage a seal inside the steering box causing more expence than you barganed for. So far, I have found that happy medium as I now love the steering tightness that I have achieved in this particular car over the past 5-7 yrs IIRC.

I'm also using Honda Power Steering Fluid in the system and it works better than ever. I don't know that it wouldn't work well with GM P/S fluid but since I had some Honda fluid, I used it and have been very happy. I have also used the Honda Power Steering fluid in other GM P/S units that actually did make noise. My '80 Firebird P/S wasn't making any noise except a slight stress noise from the adjustment which sounded like...Shhhh, Shhhh, Shhhh, Shhhh! But now that sound is gone and she is smooth and there are no catches/binds.

The rest of the front end is tight(tie rods, ball joints, pitman arm/idler arm).
 
As stated, you should test for Binding with the wheels off the road and NOT with the power steering active! ie. engine must be not running.
Strain on the power steering pump is the LEAST danger if the steering binds badly at full lock.
 
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