How much resistance should the steering linkage ha

[ford46guy]

ve when the car is not running?

I'm trying to diagnose a steering return to center issue on the Mercury Grand Marquis.

Here are some facts:
Linkage Shaft to the steering wheel has no binding. I removed it and it is very smooth and noise free. The U joint will move like a pendulum. Can eliminate that.
Spindle moves with no effort if the tie rods are off. Some BJs were replaced recently by me or the PO or very tight.
Entire steering linkage(TREs, pittman, idler) is new Moog.

When I try to turn the tires with the linkage attached, or just remove the tie rods and move them, it seems like there is ALOT of effort needed to move the steering.

I'm wondering:
1) Are moog parts very tight? I went as far as measuring turning torque on the tie rods, they were a hair above the max spec.
2) Is the steering box messed up? Not that familiar with boxes, more with R/P. I know you can adjust the box, but I would rather not do it. Seems it would get looser with age. PO said it was never touched.

Wheel does not make the final move to center, maybe 85% there.

Alignment was done, caster is 5.5/5.9. 6.3 is the limit.

Honestly I didn't notice this issue before I redid the front end, not sure if it got better or worse, but I know I had to really control the car. Steering was real [censored] before. Now its fine except for that issue.

 

[Rand]

Steering shaft, tight balljoints and other things can cause that... like an air bubble in the power steering system.

Disclaimer: not a pro.

 

[Trav]

It has all the symptoms of a tight box. Even though the PO claims it was never touched you never know what some monkey did during an alignment to correct what he considered loose steering.

Paint mark the adjusting screw and lock nut to the case and back it off 1/4 of a turn then try it. If the steering feels okay with no play but is improving try another 1/4. This is an easy adjustment that can be easily be returned to what it was if need be when you mark it.

 

[ford46guy]

Backed off the adjuster two full turns(did it in 1/4 turns, it is marked) and that is as comfortable as I feel going.

After the first turn I jacked the tires up and they definitely became easier to turn, but still difficult. After 1.5 turns I really didn't see a difference.

I am starting to feel lash in the wheel (it was quite tight before), but memory steer exists (improvements definitely noted).

Could this be an issue with the box? Something binding?

Fluid was flushed a year ago.

I guess I could go for another turn...

 

[Trav]

It could be binding in the box but now you have it adjusted i think you can move on, adjust it just so there is no play at the steering wheel, note your adjustment for future reference and lock it up.

You tried the free adjustment now ideally a PS pressure test is the next step but i doubt you have the equipment for that and the labor to do it would be more than a pump.
A weak pump or bad valve in the pump can certainly cause these conditions. I would suggest using a bottle of lubeguard PS additive, it works well at cleaning sticking valves and is the low cost next step.

The next step for me is another pump, this gets tricky! Remans are for the most part junk unless its a OE reman eg a dealer supplied Motorcraft.
New might be prohibitively expensive (i don't know), if it is I rather use a good used unit than one from AA, AZ, Napa, etc.

Try the lowest cost solutions first before spending the $$.