Raise target height suggestions

[Cropduster172]

I bought this steel spinner target on Amazon for shooting with my .22 rifles and handguns. I want to raise it up 1.5-2' taller using rebar. The frame of the target is 3/8"...
What kind of sturdy connectors can I use to connect the rebar to the target frame?
Don't want to get involved with welding.

TIA

 

[rijndael]

I would just get some metal pipe (Lowes/HD plumbing section), and slide the target's legs in to it.

 

[WobblyElvis]

2 pieces of 4 X 4 about a foot long, with 3/8" holes drilled into them to accept the target spikes. Don't drill the holes all the way through. Lay the wood on the ground and place the target into the holes.

 

[Cropduster172]

2 pieces of 4 X 4 about a foot long, with 3/8" holes drilled into them to accept the target spikes. Don't drill the holes all the way through. Lay the wood on the ground and place the target into the holes.

I didn't think of wood. Thanks.
I was thinking rebar and maybe set screw conduit couplings.
I'd use longer screws to secure the rebar to the frame.

 

[AZjeff]

2 pieces of 4 X 4 about a foot long, with 3/8" holes drilled into them to accept the target spikes. Don't drill the holes all the way through. Lay the wood on the ground and place the target into the holes.

How does that raise the target device 1.5-2 feet? Can't picture it. Using wood is a good idea. Cut an 8' 4x4 or 2x4 into 4 - 2' lengths. Make 2 - Ts and drill the 3/8 holes in the base of the Ts and insert the legs.

 

[Cropduster172]

How does that raise the target device 1.5-2 feet? Can't picture it. Using wood is a good idea. Cut an 8' 4x4 or 2x4 into 4 - 2' lengths. Make 2 - Ts and drill the 3/8 holes in the base of the Ts and insert the legs.

Using 4x4s would be ok if they remained stationary but I've got to transport the target back and forth to/from the gun club range.
That's why I'm thinking about rebar couplings.

 

[rijndael]

IME - Couplers and screws aren't great for steel targets, they get rattled loose.

 

[IndyIan]

3-4 per side of small worm gear clamps should do it? Are you putting it in and out of the ground often? Maybe bend the top of the rebar over to a 90 angle so you can push/pull/hammer on it? Maybe use just round bar if you are moving it often, as re-bar can stick into the ground quite firmly if you leave it for long.

 

[Cropduster172]

3-4 per side of small worm gear clamps should do it? Are you putting it in and out of the ground often? Maybe bend the top of the rebar over to a 90 angle so you can push/pull/hammer on it? Maybe use just round bar if you are moving it often, as re-bar can stick into the ground quite firmly if you leave it for long.

I take to the range and push or hammer it into the ground and pull it out after 1-2 hours each time.

 

[Cropduster172]

IME - Couplers and screws aren't great for steel targets, they get rattled loose.

I could loctite them. Should hold pretty well for awhile.

 

[rijndael]

Do as you see fit. This all just seems overly complicated.

Get 2 pipes a few feet long, use your hammer and put them in the ground a bit. Slide your target in to it.

 

[IndyIan]

These are for electric fence but probably a bit flimsy? ~1/4" thick. We use them, but it doesn't take much to stop them from going in.

Your local high school probably has welding, you could bring the rebar to them and some money for supply's and get them to add the rebar to your target with a foot bar added for easy set up?

 

[Cropduster172]

Do as you see fit. This all just seems overly complicated.

Get 2 pipes a few feet long, use your hammer and put them in the ground a bit. Slide your target in to it.

Never thought of pipes. Steel conduit...10' is $7.00...cut it at angle with my sawzall so it's pointed. Brilliant! Thanks!

 

[IndyIan]

Never thought of pipes. Steel conduit...10' is $7.00...cut it at angle with my sawzall so it's pointed. Brilliant! Thanks!

Depends on your ground, but you might want to go with some thicker walls and smaller diameter. I've used salvaged light duty galvanized chain link fence pipes, so like 1.25" and 1/8"? walls and they don't like going too deep into our ground. To get even 2' in, it is much much harder than putting in a t-post, and the pipe mushrooms, sometimes at both ends with any kind of rock or pebble down there.
Maybe 1/2" black iron pipe? I don't think it should be brittle at all and should be much stronger for hammering. I've never tried it though.

 

[Cropduster172]

Depends on your ground, but you might want to go with some thicker walls and smaller diameter. I've used salvaged light duty galvanized chain link fence pipes, so like 1.25" and 1/8"? walls and they don't like going too deep into our ground. To get even 2' in, it is much much harder than putting in a t-post, and the pipe mushrooms, sometimes at both ends with any kind of rock or pebble down there.
Maybe 1/2" black iron pipe? I don't think it should be brittle at all and should be much stronger for hammering. I've never tried it though.

January and February in Chester County PA...where the gun club is are the coldest months with the possibility of frozen ground. Spring, Summer and Fall..
No problem. I have shooting tree with a 12" stake and I get it in no problem.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

The best answer is .... WELDING .. simplicity with 100% effectiveness.

I know you don't want to get it welded .... but welding is your answer.
1) Two pieces of 1/2" dia rebar .. two-foot pieces
2) 90-degree bend near the tops (foot-bar) .... bottom ground to a point
3) have welded
That would never come apart
Easy install with the 'foot-bar' .... No hammer required .. nothing to come loose

I'd suggest changing your thinking .... "get it welded".

Happy shooting.

 

[Cropduster172]

A 10' length of conduit cost me $7 at Home Depot.
I cut 2 pieces at 42". Gun club rules state the steel target has to 3-5' off the ground.
I measured it at 49" but that can vary by 3-6" depending on soil conditions at the range. Still will be fine. Thanks for the input everyone!

 

[CleanSump]

I was going to suggest make "T" bases using PCV pipe and fittings. Easy to take down and transport.
____I____

 

[spasm3]

I know you dont want welding involved , but that would make it work better to be portable.

Two pipes of the height you want, welded to 2 old brake drums.

No pounding into the ground.

 

[Cropduster172]

I was going to suggest make "T" bases using PCV pipe and fittings. Easy to take down and transport.
____I____

Yeah, I was looking for some T fittings to run a cross piece closer to the bottom. I guess I could use PVC Ts on the conduit...so good idea, thank you!