radiator leak?...gulp

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asiancivicmaniac

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I went to check the oil in my car today and I noticed there was some white stuff sprayed over a small area of the engine bay. Found some white stuff on top of the radiator. I think there's a leak but when I cleaned it off I didn't see a crack or anything. Coolant level is fine. This couldn't happen at a less inconvenient time. School starts on Monday and I have to drive 100 miles to move into my new apartment tomorrow
frown.gif
. Is there anything that I can do to temporarily seal the leak?

On the Maxima forum these radiators are usually recommended. Any good?

Here's where I think it's leaking. Probably only started recently since I didn't notice it last week. Any suggestions are appreciated.
DSC00180.jpg
 
If I were you, I'd JUMP ON that Koyo race radiator deal! For the price it's a great deal. Don't forget you can get $10 or $20 for the old one at a scrap metal place.
 
We have not found any reliable way to repair crimped PTR's. If it leaks throw it away and buy a new one.

They don't pay $10 or $20 here for them. They pay $.31 cents per pound after you pull the plastic tanks off the aluminum core.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
We have not found any reliable way to repair crimped PTR's. If it leaks throw it away and buy a new one.

Definitely replacing it. Just need to buy a little more time out of it to get me back up to school and settled in. It's leaking at the top plastic part.
 
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
Originally Posted By: Chris142
We have not found any reliable way to repair crimped PTR's. If it leaks throw it away and buy a new one.

Definitely replacing it. Just need to buy a little more time out of it to get me back up to school and settled in. It's leaking at the top plastic part.
That Koyo looks exactly like the Spectra Premium radiator I purchased from NAPA for my Altima earlier this year. Note, that thread 4 years old and the prices have likely changed. Mine ran ~$110 from NAPA delivered to store, same lifetime warranty as AZ/AAP but ~$70 cheaper.

As said, the system should be pressure tested and make sure the cap is good. Also make sure your hose(s)are good. fyi, my leak was right at the top hose radiator junction. A new clamp was put on and tightened but it still leaked when tested, so got the new Spectra Prem. Rad. However, not long after replacement there still seemed to be a small white powder below hose at seam, and slight coolant smell, clamp was tight. Bought a new upper hose even though it didn't look bad inside, no more powder under hose at seam. Now wonder if wasn't just an old mushy hose that wouldn't seal under heat and pressure?

Here is the Spectra Prem. ecat, plug in year/make model. They are made in Canada, mine fit perfectly. http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/apps/ecat...product_catalog

Good luck.
 
i bought a koyo for a honda for about 125 with free shipping from 1800radiators..... anyway the koyo's have a lifetime warranty too i believe...
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
We have not found any reliable way to repair crimped PTR's. If it leaks throw it away and buy a new one.

They don't pay $10 or $20 here for them. They pay $.31 cents per pound after you pull the plastic tanks off the aluminum core.


That $.31/lb is about what some pay around here too. I've got a friend who calls around and finds who pays the best. Last year the place closest to me was paying about $.45/lb for copper and I was happy until I found out another place just a few miles further was paying about 3 times that. The price spread for Aluminum was/is similar. Guess where I go now?

The new place bulks the Aluminum and trucks it to Tennessee so I think you are getting the short end of the deal at your recycler. I'm thinking they are giving you the "Iron-ie Aluminum" price and selling it for a lot more. I believe that is what my first place was doing. Of course you are way far way, so the local conditions could vary substantially. I'd call around if you have more than just a little bit of scrap.
 
An old trick is to loosen the radiator cap, but still have it on - just the first click.
This keeps pressure in the system minimized, and stops leaks.
But you have to run it bit low, like an old time non puke tank system.
Nice trick to know for emergencies!
 
Try a tube of Barsleak Gold.This is powdered ginger root wood that expands only when soaked and exposed to air otherwise it just swims in the cooling system looking for leaks.
GM uses this exact product in tab form.

BTW ginger root is the only wood with this unique characteristic,this makes it very safe from plugging up heater cores and radiators and makes it easy to flush out later.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
An old trick is to loosen the radiator cap, but still have it on - just the first click.
This keeps pressure in the system minimized, and stops leaks.
But you have to run it bit low, like an old time non puke tank system.
Nice trick to know for emergencies!


Good to know.

Drove it all the way from home to school without being stranded. Changed the radiator cap just to rule it. But the leak is still there so I might just JB Weld that spot until I get time to change the radiator in a couple weeks. Seems to only show up after a long highway drive.
 
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
mechtech2 said:
Drove it all the way from home to school without being stranded. Changed the radiator cap just to rule it. But the leak is still there so I might just JB Weld that spot until I get time to change the radiator in a couple weeks. Seems to only show up after a long highway drive.

It's only going to get worse. Don't let it overheat. Those Aluminum heads do not like to get even remotly warm.
Click to expand...
 
JB Quick Weld is what I'd try. The regular is a bit tougher, but runs all over while you wait a day for it to set up.
BTW, use a patch on top of the gob of epoxy.
 
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
Doesn't it mess with the water pump?


No not at all.GM uses the stuff OEM in some of its weep prone engines.Epoxy may work if the leak was visible on the tank but you say it seems to be coming from under the crimp area,in this case it may not because you may not be able to get the stuff in there,especially if its underneath.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
What should I patch it with?


If the leak is visible as Trav mentioned then JB Weld is probably your best choice. Just make sure the area is clean and dry, and if possible scuff it up to give the JB Weld some tooth.
 
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