racing oil for a bigger flat tappet

[BudgetRacer]

[color:#33CC00]Hey guys thanks for letting me on here..I have been doing some research etc (please excuse my ignorance if not enough research was done) and I am just wondering about your thoughts as the Rotella T4 for a race oil? or perhaps pour in a additive to make the T4 better? Could this happen? [color:#009900]Trucks that might see 3000RPMs max.....all you Rotella fan boys out there running it in a race motor....put a motor on a Dyno.....run it at 7500RPMs and drain the oil right away and tell me how many air bubbles you see in it compared to a real race oil.... You might get away with Rotella at the drag strip but, if you put it in a motor and go do some track days lapping sessions with it, your results will probably be different that the guys at the Drag Strip. I am thinking of getting the Amsoil stuff but bucks are down.. I am in Canada and I assume the T4 has a good ZDDP level. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rotell...87930p.html#srp I am a drag race guy so the car would mostly be 6-10 second bursts (and burnout time) and idling etc to warm it up...it isn't a ultra fast car.. this is the car/YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd51XLUxZeQ[/color][/color]

 

[FCD]

I would suggest Valvoline VR1 20W-50, many hot BBC's all over the world running it, however if the engine doesn't properly warm up i wouldn't be able to say if it's ideal for you. It's a Group II Dino with 1300ppm of Zddp and mets API SM and ACEA A3/B4, as far as Dino 20W-50s go it's probably the best one out there. That being said i have never heard of anybody having engine issues with Rotella! Then you have the Amsoil Z-ROd series which is a safe bet, i believe they have a 15W-50 or 20W-50, ofcourse full synthetic.

 

[dogememe]

Valvoline VR1 (conventional) or Royal Purple HPS (synthetic)

 

[BudgetRacer]

Thanks guys, I like the Amsoil dominator racing oil. The price is good for a premium oil but it is still $140 per case of 12.. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/racing/dominator-10w-30-racing-oil/

 

[FCD]

I would give VR1 a try then.

 

[Garak]

If you want the VR-1, I'm loathe to say it, but Walmart Canada does have VR-1 in 20w-50 at a very attractive price, all the time. Well, heck froze over, here I am shilling a 20w-50 for Walmart.

 

[krismoriah72]

Rotella t4 has no issues in ATV/UTV use with a wet clutch and racing conditions of 4 stroke motorcyles. Also Harleys and just about any engine that you can have fun with. What makes your engine different?

 

[Snagglefoot]

This fellow was thinking about throwing in some M1 VTwin. Could chuck it in with the T4. Do don't have cat's right? T4 is not SN rated. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4708333/Re:_Mix_1_Quart_of_M1_VTwin_20#Post4708333

 

[4WD]

Heard something similar wrt outboards but folks here defend HDEO as the only cure all oil …

 

[Snagglefoot]

Here's your T-4 in 15-40.

 

[Linctex]

I ran Shell Rotella T-4 .. 15W-40 in my turbo drag car, it always held up great!

 

[BrocLuno]

OK, this is always a conundrum. The HDEO's have the right ZDDP chemistry for your cams and lifters. The issues are related to metallurgy, hardness, and surface prep (lifter radii and curvature). If all that is OK, the oil is good enough - as long as it does not foam excessively... If there is a foaming issue, you will have to step up to Redline or some other high anti-foam oil ... Real race motors that have to do laps have either a large sump and very effective windage tray, or are dry sump. Either will give the oil time to "settle" before returning to duty through the pump. Adding an oversized filter will help as it also gives some additional dwell time to settle the oil. You can have bubbles outside the media, but what usually goes through the media is liquid. So you need to describe your motor a bit more thoroughly before we can help too much ... RPM envelope? What are the rod and main clearances? What size is the sump? How effective is your windage tray (screen, louvers, etc.) Do you tow to the track, or drive it in? Do you you have an oil cooler? How is it plumbed? Remote oil filter? So on a drag car one of the issues is oil temp ... Usually the oil is to cold at the start and over temp at the end of the run (maybe). So monitoring sump temps is always a good idea. I like to see 150*F oil temp rolling into the water box and <300*F at the big end. The bearing clearances determine the oil grade required. No point in running cool to cold 50 grade and trying to keep the oil pump drive happy unless you are running aluminum rods (50 is pretty much mandatory for Al rods) ... So there is a lot of thinking we need to do. But we need to start out with the build info ...

 

[Dyusik]

Originally Posted By: BudgetRacer

[i]Trucks that might see 3000RPMs max.....all you Rotella fan boys out there running it in a race motor....put a motor on a Dyno.....run it at 7500RPMs and drain the oil right away and tell me how many air bubbles you see in it compared to a...

Who is this oblivious person? Face palm statement of the day. Fearing bubbles sounds like a demon from a kiddie cartoon, that is also afraid of glitter and kittens. Pickup tube is well below the surface of the oil. If foaming occurs, the oil will reflect light much more and will look creamy brown (or whatever the color, green, purple etc). Not a fanboy, but here is a match to the claim. At 4-15 k rpm, plus gears of a tranny the oil gets thrown around a bit more than a dino run. This is done for hours on end. Any foam (bubbles) present in the sump would have been visible on gas stops. Nope. Thanks for a laugh though.

 

[BudgetRacer]

Hey guys, great to hear the knowledge! I will try to answer the questions RPM envelope? around 1000-6500 rpm What are the rod and main clearances? mains 1-4=.0025 3=.003 Rods .0025 What size is the sump?it is a wet system? with around a 7 quart with a high pressure pump. It does have a trap door in the pan but no wind age tray. I use a Baldwin oil filter around 1 quart How effective is your windage tray (screen, louvers, etc.) I think it is OK I wanted to install a a windage tray that I had but it didn't fit the oil pan. The trap door does help control the oil. When I used the "molases" Pennzoil GT stuff The valvespring pressure is Seat Pressure: 135 lbs @1.875 Open Pressure: 395 lbs @1.225 Do you tow to the track, or drive it in? Do you you have an oil cooler? How is it plumbed? Remote oil filter? I tow it to the track (old style flat towing lol) no oil coolers etc.. Yes I was wondering about the foaming issues as well (it was a old post from Yellow Bullet from someone else), I think that is generally is assembly issue like the pickup distance not being proper..you would really have to buzz that thing to cause the oil to foam..like Pro stock rpm.. The Amsoil is interesting..my engine is just a basic bracket BBC so I wonder if the suggestions above would work just as well.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTOiW9A0Pvs I also found a can of EOS from around 2008 is this the good stuff?

 

[Snagglefoot]

By the way, I noticed you’re from Canada. T4 is on sale at Canadian tire until April 5.

 

[BudgetRacer]

Thanks guys! I tried to find the Valvoline VR1 on the Walmart,ca and it didn't show up? I recall looking on the shelves as well and I couldn't see it. Thanks Snagglefoot I might buy some and a gallon of ATF! Should I add the EOS as a additional protector? I put the intake on last night, so hopefully get the trans in this easter weekend,, this is my youtube channel.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TapE2romH2o

 

[BrocLuno]

OK, as I see it - Rods & Mains are fine for 30 grade oil, will tolerate a 40. So you are good to go on any HDEO you want. Steel rods, so no issues there. Less than 400#'s over the nose should be fine. What lifters are you running? If it were me, I'd be looking at Chevron Delo 400 15W30 SD (severe duty) oil. But it might be hard to source in your area ... So the stuff others are recommending and some EOS should be a good combo. Remember to keep the RPM's up during the first 10 minutes of start-up and break-in. Something like 2,200 or better with no idle time. Gotta keep the crank throwing oil at the cam. Also, if you can do it right after start, pull the valve covers quick one a time and make sure all the push rods are spinning the same? That'll tell you you don't have a tight lifter and nothing is skidding. If you have a slow one, or a stop-start one, shut it down a figure out why. That is a cam/lifter failure happening ... If they are all spinning quick, you are good to go

 

[BudgetRacer]

Thanks BroncLuno, I am using the the Crower EDM ones to help put additional oil on the cam.. http://www.crower.com/media/pdf/2008b/140-141.pdf Yes, I like the Rotella T4 (on sale and available& a Heavy Duty Engine Oil) but I guess I would still have to add some EOS to put the zinc up? How much EOS? maybe 16 ounces or the full quart added to 6.5 quarts? or 6 quarts of T4 and 1 quart of EOS? yes, I was able to break in the cam with no problems with the Amsoil break in oil. We also removed the inner valve springs,and I got the cam nitrated (from comp cams)..since I removed the intake to change the gaskets I was able to see the cam noses and they looked good. I also cut open the oil filter (using the special tool) and found no problems as well..