R&R upper ball joints, chevy suburban

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I'm debating whether I should take our 1999 suburban 3/4 ton somewhere to get the upper ball joints replaced (they tested out of spec for play) or save a few hundred $$ and do it myself. About the most involved jobs I've done before are a few radiator replacements, but I've got all the tools and I think I can probably handle it -- it's not a frequent driver so if it's out of commission for a couple weekends it's not a big deal.

From looking at it, it looks like it's as "simple" as:

1) Unbolt the joint from the hub/knuckle.
2) Remove the two bolts holding the upper control arm to the frame. Remove control arm.
3) Drill out rivets holding the ball joint to the control arm (with drill press).
4) Bolt new ball joint onto control arm.
5) Reattach control arm to frame (maybe with new bushings) and to knuckle/hub.
6) Take it in for an alignment.

Does that sound accurate? Anything in particular I should be scared of?
 
No, its an easy job. I would recommed finding a Chev Truck forum and look in the stickies section. Sure to be a write up with lots of pics.
 
Remember to support the remaining lower ball joint and wheel assembly. There is quite a bit of downward pressure on this assembly from the suspension.
 
If you PM me your email address I will send you specific directions from GM w/pics and torque values on how to do it. Here is a cut/paste that doesn't come out as well. I chose 2WD not knowing what you have:

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Service Information

1999 Chevrolet Chevy Suburban - 2WD | Escalade, Pickup (Classic), Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Suspension | Front Suspension | Repair Instructions | Document ID: 167967
Upper Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement (2WD)
Removal Procedure

Tools Required

J 23742 Ball Joint Separator

Caution: Floor jack must remain under the lower control arm during removal and installation to retain the lower control arm in position. Failure to do so could result in personal injury.

Raise the vehicle. Support the lower control arm with floor stands.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Notice: Support the caliper with a piece of wire to prevent damage to the brake line.

Remove the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement in Disc Brakes.



Remove the rivets from the upper ball joint.
Use a 3.175 mm (1/8 in) drill in order to cut a 6.35 mm (¼ in) deep hole in the center of each rivet.



Drill away the rivet heads. Use a 12.75 mm (½ in) drill.



Punch the rivets out. Use a small pin punch.
Remove the cotter pin.
Remove the stud nut from the upper ball joint.



Important: Support the knuckle assembly so that the knuckle weight does not damage the brake hose.

Use the J 23742 as shown.
Apply pressure on the tool until the stud breaks loose.
Remove the J 23742 .
Pull the stud away from the knuckle.
Remove the ball joint.
Installation Procedure




Install a new upper ball joint to the upper control arm.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Position four attaching bolts and nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 24 N·m (18 lb ft).

Remove the support from the knuckle assembly.
Install the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Install the stud nut.
Tighten

• Tighten the nut to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).
• Tighten the stud nut in order to align the slot in the stud nut with the hole in the stud.
Install a new cotter pin.
Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Important:

• Check the running clearance at all suspension components.
• Check the front wheel alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Measurement in Wheel Alignment.
Lower the vehicle.
© 2010 General Motors. All rights reserved.
 
Ugh... I'm an idiot. I looked back through my records and it turns out I was mistaken, and the lower ball joints are the ones with bad play, not the uppers! This looks more involved assuming you still have to remove the control arm, since it's attached to the torsion bar springs and the shocks. Getting more tempted to just take it in .. or am I overestimating the added complication?

GMBoy: If your offer still stands, I'd appreciate that very much. I'll PM you my email address.
 
I can't say for sure on the Chev, but most there is no need to remove the lower control arm. Just press out, or drill out rivets/bolts and replace the lower ball joint.
 
Originally Posted By: rationull
Ugh... I'm an idiot. I looked back through my records and it turns out I was mistaken, and the lower ball joints are the ones with bad play, not the uppers! This looks more involved assuming you still have to remove the control arm, since it's attached to the torsion bar springs and the shocks. Getting more tempted to just take it in .. or am I overestimating the added complication?

GMBoy: If your offer still stands, I'd appreciate that very much. I'll PM you my email address.



Just sent you the directions to your email.
 
Awesome, GMBoy, just got it. Looks like kind of a chore with removing the half-shaft and the knuckle. I'll read it a few more times this week and decide whether to take the plunge or take it in!
 
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