Grand Marquis Lower Ball Joints & Water Pump

[Bogdon]

Re: 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis LS @ 88,000 miles

Hello,

My mechanic says I need a new right lower ball joint with the left one starting to go as well. He recommends they be changed in pairs, followed by a wheel alignment, adding that both control arms are okay. Should the control arms be replaced as well? Pardon the ignorance, are both lower ball joints for this car the same?

I bought it in August '23 with 68,000 miles. Is the time frame of 88,000 for this lower ball joint change typical?

Ford no longer makes that part. This supplier says it carries it in stock:

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-joint-asy-ball_3w1z-3050-a.html

Any experiences with this venue which seems to have a decent enough online reputation? Lakeland Ford Parts doesn't have this part in stock. Tasca which says it has it, doesn't have a good overall reputation.

By chance, is there a superior aftermarket lower ball joint for this car?

My water pump was recently replaced upon hearing a grinding noise in idle. The replacement is a new Motorcraft part. Is a water pump replacement at 88,000 for this car within the range of normal?

I'm of the impression my car has the original shocks.

 

[Number_35]

Re: 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis LS @ 88,000 miles

Hello,

My mechanic says I need a new right lower ball joint with the left one starting to go as well. He recommends they be changed in pairs, followed by a wheel alignment, adding that both control arms are okay. Should the control arms be replaced as well? Pardon the ignorance, are both lower ball joints for this car the same?

I bought it in August '23 with 68,000 miles. Is the time frame of 88,000 for this lower ball joint change typical?

Ford no longer makes that part. This supplier says it carries it in stock:

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-joint-asy-ball_3w1z-3050-a.html

Any experiences with this venue which seems to have a decent enough online reputation? Lakeland Ford Parts doesn't have this part in stock. Tasca which says it has it, doesn't have a good overall reputation.

By chance, is there a superior aftermarket lower ball joint for this car?

My water pump was recently replaced upon hearing a grinding noise in idle. The replacement is a new Motorcraft part. Is a water pump replacement at 88,000 for this car within the range of normal?

I'm of the impression my car has the original shocks.

88,000 miles for the ball joints doesn't sound unreasonable - it really depends on the road surface. Potholes take a toll on front-end parts.

 

[BC1]

The new Motorcraft water pump is bad? If so Motorcraft parts have a 2 year warranty. This car is 20 years old so expect lots of these repairs with 8800 miles or 88000 miles.

 

[supton]

Control arm bushings can wear from age, but, if the mechanic thinks they are ok, they might be. Might just have to be replaced in a couple of years--problem is, will the replacements last as long, or will they be short lived? Replacement parts can be awfully cheap and short lived.

I don't see why ball joints have to be replaced in pairs. Not sure that it needs an alignment for just a ball joint replacement... but it won't hurt, and would be needed for control arms. So I could see the temptation to replace all the parts, get it aligned, and then hope for another 20 years without touching it. Just not sure it's worth it. Couple parts every year or two isn't that bad, plus one good pothole can always toss an alignment out to lunch, so having that done after each repair isn't the end of the world.

As for the water pump, how often was the coolant changed?

 

[Bogdon]

The new Motorcraft water pump is bad? If so Motorcraft parts have a 2 year warranty. This car is 20 years old so expect lots of these repairs with 8800 miles or 88000 miles.

No. It was just put in.

 

[Bogdon]

88,000 miles for the ball joints doesn't sound unreasonable - it really depends on the road surface. Potholes take a toll on front-end parts.

I recall having a ball joint replacement at around 70,000-80,000 for my '06 Spec V Sentra.

 

[supton]

I recall having a ball joint replacement at around 70,000-80,000 for my '06 Spec V Sentra.

I don't think I've ever replaced a ball joint. My VW went >300k on its ball joints (but technically had lower control arm bushings replaced), and the Toyota's I've had easily went past 200k on OEM's. But some brands eat them. If it's a cheap repair, then that's life. Replace when loose and motor on.

I'm just glad that I haven't had to do wheel bearings in a while. My VW ate both at 100k and the wife's Civic needed both at like 150k. Lotta work to replace those pressed in bearings. Was not impressed, more than $500 per side more than 10 years ago.

 

[Brian123]

My water pump was recently replaced upon hearing a grinding noise in idle. The replacement is a new Motorcraft part. Is a water pump replacement at 88,000 for this car within the range of normal?

Do you know what Coolant is in this car now? I am hoping you have the G-05 specked coolant in this 4.6 Engine!

 

[slacktide_bitog]

The upper control arms include bushings and ball joints, so you might as well replace them. Rockauto has the Motorcraft upper control arms.

They also have Delphi complete lower control arms, again with ball joints and bushings already included.

The Grand Marq is an old people car, so lots of sitting, and then short trips when it is driven.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Replaced ball joints on my 06' & 03' Camry / Solara with Moog Problem Solver ball joints. They come with zerk fittings so you can grease them. They may be an upgrade from OEM, if you are willing to lube them every now and again.

 

[The_Jeff]

You've got press-in ball joints so theoretically you won't need an alignment. If you haven't had one it makes for a good baseline for a new used car.

If I had any doubts about the second one I'd get them both taken care of at the same time so it sounds like your mechanic is on the level.

 

[Bogdon]

Control arm bushings can wear from age, but, if the mechanic thinks they are ok, they might be. Might just have to be replaced in a couple of years--problem is, will the replacements last as long, or will they be short lived? Replacement parts can be awfully cheap and short lived.

I don't see why ball joints have to be replaced in pairs. Not sure that it needs an alignment for just a ball joint replacement... but it won't hurt, and would be needed for control arms. So I could see the temptation to replace all the parts, get it aligned, and then hope for another 20 years without touching it. Just not sure it's worth it. Couple parts every year or two isn't that bad, plus one good pothole can always toss an alignment out to lunch, so having that done after each repair isn't the end of the world.

As for the water pump, how often was the coolant changed?

I changed it at around 75,000-80,000 along with the brake fluid. Both had good color before the change. Not sure if they were previously changed to that.

Around that time, I changed the rear dif using Walmart Supertech 80 90 conventional, Motorcraft gas filter and ATF using Walmart Supertech Mercon 5.

On the ATF, every two weeks at around 70,000, I'd replace about two quarts sucking from the top. I did that eight times. At 80,000, I did a drop pan which included an ATF filter replacement using Ford OEM. Every six months since, I suck out and replace two quarts from the top along with an oil change using Motorcraft filter and Walmart Supertech 5 20 full synthetic.

 

[Bogdon]

Do you know what Coolant is in this car now? I am hoping you have the G-05 specked coolant in this 4.6 Engine!

I'm not really sure. It's a yellow color - the same when I previously (about a year and a half ago) had it changed.

 

[Lubener]

I would investigate an aftermarket ball joint which is greasable. The Ford part isn't. Your non greasable OEM ball joints failing at 88k miles speaks for itself. I doubt greasable joints would have failed at 88k if greased occassionally. I had ball joints fail at 50k miles on my F150 because they were non greasable. I like the MEVOTECH TXK80141 ball joints which are greasable.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...s,4.6l+v8,1428207,suspension,ball+joint,10070

If your original shocks/struts are not leaking or bouncy, I wouldn't replace them at this time.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

I would investigate an aftermarket ball joint which is greasable. The Ford part isn't. Your non greasable OEM ball joints failing at 88k miles speaks for itself. I doubt greasable joints would have failed at 88k if greased occassionally. I had ball joints fail at 50k miles on my F150 because they were non greasable. I like the MEVOTECH TXK80141 ball joints which are greasable.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...s,4.6l+v8,1428207,suspension,ball+joint,10070

If your original shocks/struts are not leaking or bouncy, I wouldn't replace them at this time.

A lot of the cheap junk is greasable and wear out rapidly. For road cars I would recommend OEM sealed parts.

 

[Lubener]

A lot of the cheap junk is greasable and wear out rapidly. For road cars I would recommend OEM sealed parts.

Having the sealed OEM units fail at 88k tells me they are junk. I never wore out a greasable part yet.

 

[BrendanC]

i only install grease-able ball joins/tie rod ends. maintaining a healthy lube pattern and rarely have to do it again. almost 100k miles on my silverado HD front end weighing 8600lbs on 22x14 and 35x15.50 tires from oil field to hunting and everything is still very tight. i grease at every OCI with Lucas green grease.

to the OP, replace the balljoints in pairs, never smart to do one side and not the other as the other could fail at any time. a front end alignment is not required but is never a bad idea. I personally would replace upper/lower ball joints and inner/outer toe rods before an alignment. that way you know everything is fresh and it will drive like a new vehicle. but i was/am a mechanic and do my own work so cost is only that of parts and my free time. I drive old vehicles but keep them in well above average mechanical shape.

 

[PontiacHO]

Had a fleet of Crown Vic law enforcement vehicles. We replace complete control arms. When ball joints were sloppy so were control arm bushings. Cheaper due to less labor to fight the bushings out-in. Seems they got better around 2004 or 2005, longer lived.

 

[lucky7901]

Re: 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis LS @ 88,000 miles

Hello,

My mechanic says I need a new right lower ball joint with the left one starting to go as well. He recommends they be changed in pairs, followed by a wheel alignment, adding that both control arms are okay. Should the control arms be replaced as well? Pardon the ignorance, are both lower ball joints for this car the same?

I bought it in August '23 with 68,000 miles. Is the time frame of 88,000 for this lower ball joint change typical?

Ford no longer makes that part. This supplier says it carries it in stock:

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-joint-asy-ball_3w1z-3050-a.html

Any experiences with this venue which seems to have a decent enough online reputation? Lakeland Ford Parts doesn't have this part in stock. Tasca which says it has it, doesn't have a good overall reputation.

By chance, is there a superior aftermarket lower ball joint for this car?

My water pump was recently replaced upon hearing a grinding noise in idle. The replacement is a new Motorcraft part. Is a water pump replacement at 88,000 for this car within the range of normal?

I'm of the impression my car has the original shocks.

I have 2 of these panthers of the same year also (2004).

The 2004 models have aluminum control arms and so according to Ford the entire control arm has to be replaced to service the ball joint.

Go to rockauto and purchase 2 new control arms. MOOG is OK. They're about 150$ each. You will need L and R side. I have held new Motorcraft control arms and aftermarket in my hands and couldn't tell the difference. The control arms on these cars are massive!

I have never needed a wheel alignment after changing my control arms but I do my own wheel alignment with fishing line and a ruler so it doesn't matter if needed one anyway because I can do it myself for free.

 

[Bogdon]

I have 2 of these panthers of the same year also (2004).

The 2004 models have aluminum control arms and so according to Ford the entire control arm has to be replaced to service the ball joint.

Go to rockauto and purchase 2 new control arms. MOOG is OK. They're about 150$ each. You will need L and R side. I have held new Motorcraft control arms and aftermarket in my hands and couldn't tell the difference. The control arms on these cars are massive!

I have never needed a wheel alignment after changing my control arms but I do my own wheel alignment with fishing line and a ruler so it doesn't matter if needed one anyway because I can do it myself for free.

If so, then why does Ford sell these lower ball joints individually? Where does Ford say this?

In contrast, Ford sells the upper control arms and bushings and ball joints that go with it as a full assembly kit.