Quick Mikey Mouse Rust Repair

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Trav

Trav

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I am doing this quickly, its all hidden under plastic cladding but i wanted metal in there.
It was gone, nothing left from the middle of the rocker to the wheel well.
I still need to fill some small holes in the sheet metal work, grind the welds down and put a finish piece in then a bit of filler.
All the bending was done by hand, no power shears, metal brake, wheel, etc and only a small miller 140 welder on the ground, no lift.

I will cop to this bit of a hack job. The car is for sale so i wont get too fussy but i don't want to sell it butchered either. The rest of the body is perfect.
I just wanted to show it can be done at home in the backyard with a small machine and a minimal amount of equipment.

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Looks good to me . I repaired many cars much the same and those repairs lasted for years . I usually spayed some oil on the inside to prevent rust .
 
Wow, if not going for looks, looks great! Seems to me that crafting metal to fit that well can be tough. was it really a bend by hand? How did you shape it? Ball-pein hammer?

How did you protect the seam and bare metal inside?

What gauge metal was used?

What kind of car?

Fortunately only one of my cars shows some rust, but if something like this is doable from the ground, I may want to give it a whirl.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Wow, if not going for looks, looks great! Seems to me that crafting metal to fit that well can be tough. was it really a bend by hand? How did you shape it? Ball-pein hammer?

How did you protect the seam and bare metal inside?

What gauge metal was used?

What kind of car?

Fortunately only one of my cars shows some rust, but if something like this is doable from the ground, I may want to give it a whirl.


You use an acetylene torch and hammer to bend the metal to shape. Maybe a brake if you need a straight angle.

What kind of car? Looks like a rusty old POS to me
 
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Yes just a ball pein hammer a vise and a piece of iron pipe. One the seams i used weld through galvanized spray.
I used 22 Ga for the skin and 18 Ga for the inner structure. Once its skimmed over you wont be able to tell it was done.

I will rust proof it from inside with Corban 22 and use chip guard in the wheel well.
This is an 06 GMC Yukon Denali XL.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Wow, if not going for looks, looks great! Seems to me that crafting metal to fit that well can be tough. was it really a bend by hand? How did you shape it? Ball-pein hammer?

How did you protect the seam and bare metal inside?

What gauge metal was used?

What kind of car?

Fortunately only one of my cars shows some rust, but if something like this is doable from the ground, I may want to give it a whirl.


You use an acetylene torch and hammer to bend the metal to shape. Maybe a brake if you need a straight angle.

What kind of car? Looks like a rusty old POS to me

No its good, the frame rust is surface only not flaky. It just got rusty from sitting since 2011. 39K on this truck one owner, so its worth fixing.
 
If I had to do that I'd probably use paperboard to make a form then copy its complex shapes and cuts to the real deal.

I also wonder what you use for sheet steel; I typically cut up old computer cases. I can also grab as many file cabinets from the dump as I want.

Lookin' good.
 
I use a high grade sheet metal from a local metal fab shop. The stuff is very rust resistant.
Leave a small piece outside and a piece of cheap stuff and the difference in rust is amazing.
It welds easy but you cant run a long bead because of panel distortion, its a black vehicle.

I did use some cardboard but i tack some metal in place and use the heat from welding to form it a little. Not hard at all.
Like i said this is a quick job without all the tools, on my keeper i used all new parts, carefully welded it then used lead and pick and file on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Yes just a ball pein hammer a vise and a piece of iron pipe. One the seams i used weld through galvanized spray.
I used 22 Ga for the skin and 18 Ga for the inner structure. Once its skimmed over you wont be able to tell it was done.

I will rust proof it from inside with Corban 22 and use chip guard in the wheel well.
This is an 06 GMC Yukon Denali XL.


Interesting. Always been interested in how auto metal gets "reshaped" for repairs like this.

So why Corban 22 versus something that makes a hard coating like Amsoil HDMP or waxoyl or the 3M stuff; or something oily like Krown or Carwell? Always interested in rustproofing compounds and approaches for keeper cars that should be updated/refreshed...
 
I've had GREAT results using the Wurth rustproofing black paint, brushed on with a foam applicator brush.
Of course this is BEFORE the panel/chassis/unibody part rusts out completely, but even heavy surface rust is OK to just paint right over with this stuff.

It is even more costly than POR-15 by volume, but it is a ONE COAT/ONE STEP deal, so it is worth it to me.
smile.gif
 
About 6 years ago I was looking for something thin film, non hardening but firm product that wouldn't attract dirt for an XKE restoration i was doing.
It had to an inside and outside product and not hide the metal under the car like a thick film undercoating.

I called a few companies, Krown, 3M and Waxoyl were quickly eliminated, too messy or too short a salt water spray test result.
Amsoil was too thin as was LPS. I called Corban and told the guy what i was doing and what i needed.
He suggested 22 and sent me a sample. Salt water spray test hrs make 3M look ineffective consumer grade stuff, this stuff is for airliner wheel well protection.

Harmless to rubber, all metals, self healing with a light salmon color if applied in multiple coats. Firm enough that it doesn't get loaded with dirt but never hardens and cracks.
I bought a case of 4 gallons cheap because the FAA cert date was running out. I used it and no rust ever came back or new rust started on any car i used it on with no reapplication.

You do need a proper gun and wands to apply this stuff.
 
That is nuts to see that much rust on a '06 that is just getting broken in mileage wise. That was a $50K+ SUV. I guess it was the winter beater and no rust proofing was ever done.
 
32.gif
When I need to fold metal, like for a rocker panel crease, I sandwich it between two 2x4s with C-clamps, then roll/press the thing against my workbench to put a 90 degree crease in.

Once that crease is in, and straight, it'll bend further without guidance.

It helps to get "square" 2x4s, some are rounded so carpenters don't get splinters or ???
 
That works. I have 2 long 3/8 thick flat metal plates i used but it got a little distorted, i will straighten it out before doing the bodywork.
If i am doing it in the shop i have a sheet metal brake and a lift. This is strictly a ghetto job.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
About 6 years ago I was looking for something thin film, non hardening but firm product that wouldn't attract dirt for an XKE restoration i was doing.
It had to an inside and outside product and not hide the metal under the car like a thick film undercoating.

I called a few companies, Krown, 3M and Waxoyl were quickly eliminated, too messy or too short a salt water spray test result.
Amsoil was too thin as was LPS. I called Corban and told the guy what i was doing and what i needed.
He suggested 22 and sent me a sample. Salt water spray test hrs make 3M look ineffective consumer grade stuff, this stuff is for airliner wheel well protection.

Harmless to rubber, all metals, self healing with a light salmon color if applied in multiple coats. Firm enough that it doesn't get loaded with dirt but never hardens and cracks.
I bought a case of 4 gallons cheap because the FAA cert date was running out. I used it and no rust ever came back or new rust started on any car i used it on with no reapplication.

You do need a proper gun and wands to apply this stuff.


Interesting. What kind of gun/pressure pot do youhave and use?

Good info, but where were you finding apples to apples saltwater spray testing results? Is there an ASTM type test that gets reported by all?

Ive been pleasantly surprised by Krown even in wheelwells. I recently got some LPS 3, but may need to buy some of this. Thanks!
 
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