Quick drain oil valve

[Wilhelm_D]

Originally Posted By: hardcore302
Think this thing is worth the money? I would just be worried that it would open during a drive...


For that kind of money I'll keep wrenching.

And you're right, that thing is hanging down where something may say hello to it at a bad time.

 

[GaleHawkins]

I prefer the nipple version.

 

[Spector]

I have had one on every one of my cars and children's since the 90s, had one on for over 20 years on my 92 Camry. On one I even ran over a concrete median and shaved the nipple, never damaged the valve, kept on working fine. Love them. Takes a little longer to drain the oil but makes the whole process so much easier and cleaner.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Do they come indexed as to the valve handle facing upwards or do you have to add washers to index it correctly?

 

[dnewton3]

The washer is generally pliable enough that you can index it somewhat. It may not be exactly where you want it, but typically you can at least move it enough to make sure it's not pointing down, if strikes on the valve are our concern, or several degrees one way or anoher to get it "just right" for draining.

The valve itself has no indexing feature; it's just a matter of turning to compress the pliable washer via the threads on the valve.

 

[spasm3]

If i was sampling oil regularly i see the advantage. I don't see the time advantage since i have to change the filter anyway. Hands still get dirty changing the filter.

 

[dnewton3]

Yes - it is a great tool for live sampling. Also, if you have a high spill-potential due to awkard drain, etc, then the nipple-version with tube is a neat and tidy tool as well.
If you simply indend to do a traditional OCI, the value isn't nearly as great. This is a tool for convenience and savings only in some situations, but it will not be useful in all

For my live sampling it has great value, but I only have these on some applications, but not the majority of my stuff.

But isn't it the BITOG way to waste money on unnecessary things?

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
The washer is generally pliable enough that you can index it somewhat. It may not be exactly where you want it, but typically you can at least move it enough to make sure it's not pointing down, if strikes on the valve are our concern, or several degrees one way or anoher to get it "just right" for draining.

The valve itself has no indexing feature; it's just a matter of turning to compress the pliable washer via the threads on the valve.

I should have been more specific in asking my Q?. I asked about the valve handle being indexed upwards because in my engines drain application this is where I would want it.
When I used to race I would index my spark plug gap opening towards the intake and exhaust valves. This usually gives the engine up to a 3 hp gain.

 

[Garak]

The indexing, as Dave mentioned, will depend upon how tight you get it and your thread orientation. My Audi's was indexed just perfectly. The handle was right at the top. On the G, despite fussing with it, I can't get it quite the way I want it. It's still completely functional and not messy. I just wipe the handle with a little scrap of paper towel when I'm done.

It's still much cleaner than me dropping the plug in the oil pan, or whatever other messy things I like to do when changing oil.

 

[GaleHawkins]

The indexing was a concern that I had too but as others have posted it sealed and without undue force got it in the desired position just fine and that was in 2007.

I like to drain the oil when it is about 200F degrees and change the filter when it is no more than 100F. The Fumoto valve is perfect since we have the nipple version. We kill the engine and start the draining into an old 2 gallon gas jug that we lost the cap off of over the years. Then we get our oil and filter out and maybe the grease gun in our case.

When the flow in the clear plastic tube stops we dump in 4 oz of fresh motor oil and when it starts looking like new oil we close the valve and proceed to finish the job. The exhaust on the 454 is near the oil filter which hangs upside down so it having cooled down is a plus.

Not Fumoto valve related but when traveling in the MH we learned if we will carry an empty gallon ice cream pail with the lid we can do a parking lot change out of the filter with next to no mess and in just a few minutes first thing the next morning.

The oil may only be three weeks old and with the new filter it clears up typically over the next couple hundred miles.

With a Fumoto valve if you over fill it is like a two minute fix.

 

[TiredTrucker]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
If i was sampling oil regularly i see the advantage. I don't see the time advantage since i have to change the filter anyway. Hands still get dirty changing the filter.


In my case, it is a matter of the awkward drain flow by just pulling a plug. Trying to get the catch pan just right is a guessing game of extreme proportions. The valve is perfect. For the filter and getting hands dirty, that is why they make those blue nitril elastic mechanic's gloves you can buy at the auto parts stores. I have boxes of those around. In my shop, in my garage, and in my semi truck and pickup.

 

[BHopkins]

Here is another recent covert to the Fumoto valve. I put one on my Outback at it's first oil change. I selected the model with a short nipple. The short nipple increases overall length by only about 4 mm. But it makes oil changes super clean and easy. With the ground clearance of my Outback, I don't even have to lift the car.

I snap a hose on, put the other end of the hose in my drain pan, and open the valve. While the oil is draining, I go up topside and change the oil filter. It only takes about 2 minutes to change the oil filter, and by the time I am done and get back under the car to check on the oil, it has already stopped draining. Close the valve, remove the hose, fill with fresh oil and I am done.

The convenience of the Fumoto valve isn't just time. It also is cleaner. With my other cars, I could never get the drain plug out of the way without getting used oil on my hand. Sometimes I would drop the plug, and have to fish it out of the drain pan. Then I have to wipe it off. One more dirty rag. Then there is the risk of damaging the threads, either of the plug or the pan, or both. While this has never happened to me, it is a possibility. That is totally eliminated with the Fumoto valve.

The only down side could be a clearance issue, and that is dependent upon angle of your car's drain plug, and how low the drain plug is, when compared to the lowest surrounding components, such as cross bars, sway bars, etc.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: BHopkins
Here is another recent covert to the Fumoto valve. I put one on my Outback at it's first oil change. I selected the model with a short nipple. The short nipple increases overall length by only about 4 mm. But it makes oil changes super clean and easy. With the ground clearance of my Outback, I don't even have to lift the car.

I snap a hose on, put the other end of the hose in my drain pan, and open the valve. While the oil is draining, I go up topside and change the oil filter. It only takes about 2 minutes to change the oil filter, and by the time I am done and get back under the car to check on the oil, it has already stopped draining. Close the valve, remove the hose, fill with fresh oil and I am done.

The convenience of the Fumoto valve isn't just time. It also is cleaner. With my other cars, I could never get the drain plug out of the way without getting used oil on my hand. Sometimes I would drop the plug, and have to fish it out of the drain pan. Then I have to wipe it off. One more dirty rag. Then there is the risk of damaging the threads, either of the plug or the pan, or both. While this has never happened to me, it is a possibility. That is totally eliminated with the Fumoto valve.

The only down side could be a clearance issue, and that is dependent upon angle of your car's drain plug, and how low the drain plug is, when compared to the lowest surrounding components, such as cross bars, sway bars, etc.

Just think of all of the money you save by using a wrench to remove the drain plug VS installing a drain valve.
And, for those that use an oil filter for multiple OCIs, you can buy a lot of filters and change it at each OCI over the price of the valve.
I am not saying valves on an engine are wrong. I have one on each side of my block (1/4" stainless 1/4 turn ball valves) to drain the coolant when doing a coolant flush.
I just don't think one for the oil pan is cost efficient, for me, anyway.

 

[Joenpb]

Been using a Quick Valve for a couple of years now and it does not stick out below the pan. As some have said it makes UOA samples a breeze. My mechanic also says they're a good idea since he's ssen a few aluminum oil pans with stripped drain plug threads. If I were to use a plug, I would torque per specification.

It is spring loaded & locks into place. There is also a clip that can be purchased to lock the lever in place. I have one, but have not used it. The valve is tucked away, and its nice to change my oil without tools.

 

[Joenpb]

Also I attach a hose and run it to the oil collector, no mess, ever.

Tried to revise this statement but too much time elapsed: "It is spring loaded & locks into place."

To:
The Quick valve lever is spring loaded & semi-locks into place. The lever has to be pushed up and rotated to open. There is also a clip that can be purchased to fully lock the lever in place.