Questions after front brake job

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After binging on YouTube instructional videos, I just completed swapping front pads and rotors on my 2011 Acura MDX. Reason for the job was that the outboard pad on the DF wheel was worn to the nub. DF inboard pad was perfectly fine. PF wheel pads/rotors were good too and probably didn't need to be changed, but I did it anyway as I've read you're supposed to replace them in pairs.

I discovered I that had a sticking top caliper slide pin which was likely the cause of the worn outboard pad. I pulled and thoroughly cleaned the pin, then thoroughly cleaned the bore and finally (lightly) re-lubed and reinserted. BTW, I used the proper stuff to lube the pins, 3M silicone paste. At this point I noticed the slide pin was still very resistive to sliding. After fooling with it some more, it appeared the cause was the small rubber bushing (o-ring) on the tip of the slide pin. It may have swelled ever so slightly, causing it to drag inside the bore, even with the proper lubrication. Strange thing is the bottom slide pin does not have this bushing and slides perfectly! For reference, the bushing I'm referring to is part # 45233-STX-A01.

1. My first question is, is this bushing absolutely necessary to the safe operation of the braking system and why does only the top pin have it? For the time being I have removed it from both top sliding pins and they seem to operate perfectly with just the 3M silicone paste - same as the bottom pins. Do I need to purchase/install replacement bushings from the dealer?



Secondly, I wasn't paying attention when picking up and inserting the new pad clips on the caliper and manged to install both bottom clips on one caliper and both top clips on the other. I used the clips that came with the Akebono ACT1280 set which look like this:

[Linked Image from shop.advanceautoparts.com]



As you can see, the top clips have a small tab on top with a hole. Otherwise, both top and bottom clips are very similar and I didn't notice and fit issues when installing or issues when driving (yet).

2. Second question, do I need to swap these clips so they are properly placed in their intended locations or am I OK to leave them as is?

Obviously, brakes are #1 for safety, so I want to make sure everything is hunky dory, but at the same time, avoid about an 1+ hrs worth of work taking the wheels and pads off again.
 
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If the manufacturers did not think they needed those pin end bushings, they would not design them into the system (noise,vibration). Replace them. I once noticed that one aftermarket brand of pin bushing fit tighter than other brands, so be mindful about that. Make sure the caliper pin bores are clean and devoid of dried grease and/or rust too.

Same answer for your clip question. Put them in the way they were designed. I see slight differences between the clips beyond the top tab (side tabs where caliper sits).

Superb choice on your grease. One hour to correct, then sleep well at night.

Other similar threads: https://www.google.com/search?q=WHAT+DOES+BRAKE+PIN+BUSHING+DO+site:www.bobistheoilguy.com&client=firefox-b-1-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjwqdvw9fTkAhWxFjQIHVfCBxMQrQIoAzASegQIABAM&biw=1920&bih=944
 
Honda frequently puts the rubber bushing on one slide pin and not both. This is not unusual. You do need to confirm if this pin (with the bushing) goes in the top or bottom position. What is it for and is it necessary ? As already said, Honda or the brake caliper manufacturer doesn't add this arbitrarily. Make it right.

As for the hardware, I hope Akebono includes instructions on which position which piece goes in.

Lastly, always replace brakes in pairs. You can't buy a single pair of brake pads for a reason.
 
Dude, you know that you should fix it, you've come so far so finish the job up right. You'll feel better.
 
OK OK
Dealer parts dept doesn't open again until Monday. The new bushings will have to wait until then.
 
The rubber bushing aids in preventing chatter and is always on the leading edge of the caliper, which translates to top pin when the calipers are mounted on the front of the wheel.
 
Originally Posted by ljbrandt
Dealer parts dept doesn't open again until Monday. The new bushings will have to wait until then.


That's fine, it can wait. You're smart in getting new ones w/bushings. However, you may find them at your local parts store but, you may have to buy the whole pack/bag of 4(top & bottom) for both calipers. It could be cheaper than buying just the one you need at the dealer and obtainable on the weekend too. Keep the others that you don't use, for the future brake jobs.
 
Originally Posted by Char Baby
Originally Posted by ljbrandt
Dealer parts dept doesn't open again until Monday. The new bushings will have to wait until then.


That's fine, it can wait. You're smart in getting new ones w/bushings. However, you may find them at your local parts store but, you may have to buy the whole pack/bag of 4(top & bottom) for both calipers. It could be cheaper than buying just the one you need at the dealer and obtainable on the weekend too. Keep the others that you don't use, for the future brake jobs.

Yep, these tiny rubber bushings are like $9 a piece at the parts counter!
 
May be echoing other posts, but I had these rubber bushings swell after using Permatex grease. Problem was corrected by switching to Sil Glyde.

Also, the replacement bushings at the Honda dealer were insanely expensive. Be sure to search for alternatives.
 
Unless you have bothersome noise, I wouldn't worry about the bushing. With the new lube, you may not have noise for a year or more.

You also may be ok with the clips in the wrong position. Just keep an eye out for ODD performance like Hot hubs and or wheel centers after a drive ( the old human hand temp test)

They are just a shim to provide a hard, rust free location for the pad ears.

Or Fix it if you have the motivation.

I bet 60% of dealer/big store Pad R&R's have the techs screwing this up.
 
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Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Unless you have bothersome noise, I wouldn't worry about the bushing. With the new lube, you may not have noise for a year or more.

You also may be ok with the clips in the wrong position. Just keep an eye out for ODD performance like Hot hubs and or wheel centers after a drive ( the old human hand temp test)

They are just a shim to provide a hard, rust free location for the pad ears.

Or Fix it if you have the motivation.

I bet 60% of dealer/big store Pad R&R's have the techs screwing this up.


Like the devil on my left shoulder (I want to believe), lol.

Interesting read here on this same issue:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3853918/all/Caliper_slide_pin_issue,_pleas
 
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Originally Posted by ljbrandt
Yep, these tiny rubber bushings are like $9 a piece at the parts counter!


I would be surprised if aftermarket bushings are available separately. Maybe check Rock Auto. The NAPA hardware kit UP 83812A is only $12. A recent kit I bought at NAPA had "Made in USA" on the box, which I find hard to believe (also lifetime warranty, LOL, but better than the competitors).

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP...nt&keywordInput=front+brake+hardware

As stated above, I have had some aftermarket bushings fit tighter than others.
 
1. My first question is, is this bushing absolutely necessary to the safe operation of the braking system and why does only the top pin have it? For the time being I have removed it from both top sliding pins and they seem to operate perfectly with just the 3M silicone paste - same as the bottom pins. Do I need to purchase/install replacement bushings from the dealer?[/b]...

Obviously, brakes are #1 for safety, so I want to make sure everything is hunky dory, but at the same time, avoid about an 1+ hrs worth of work taking the wheels and pads off again.
[/quote]


You can pick this up from Autozone today for a fraction of the dealer price. It includes both pin bushings and four new caliper pin bellows boots.

Caliper Pin Boot Kit
 
Originally Posted by George7941
The rubber bushing aids in preventing chatter and is always on the leading edge of the caliper, which translates to top pin when the calipers are mounted on the front of the wheel.

Toyota uses that bushing on the lower pin on my 04 Camry. And Permatex Green,Red and Purple brake grease goop will swell that bushing.
 
The bushing is to dampen noise as the slide pins can rattle in the bore. I too have had the swollen bushing problem on various cars, even on new cars that had NEVER had the brakes touched outside the factory.

On some cars, you can't hear anything when the bushing is removed, on other cars it sounds like a rock in a tin can over small, ripply bumps. See what your car does ...
 
No rattling so far. I noticed the silicone paste is much thicker than the grease that was previously in there. Not sure if the silicone, over time, will thin out as well.
 
The rubber bushings are purely to minimize noise / vibration. They have nothing to do with brake performance. If they don't rattle, I would leave them be, as free sliding pins work wayyyy better than seized up ones ...
 
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