question about mobil 1

Messages
48
Location
Florida
Is mobil 1 5w50 a "true" synthetic? Like PAO or ester? I'm asking because I tried mobil 0w40 but it's too thin for my old volvo redblock..so now I'm on the hunt for a robust OTC oil and it needs to be PAO or ester. And mobil 1 is pretty secretive about there oil which I could understand if I was asking them for a recipe but idk.
 

JHZR2

Staff member
Messages
46,274
Location
New Jersey
Time to get past the "true" synthetic wife's tale. If precursors to PAO come from refinery byproducts of crude, and group III also come from refinery byproducts of crude, is there a value proposition really to be had? Particularly if good Grp III base stocks perform within 95%+ of a PAO, at a much more attractive price point? There are high percentage PAO lubes out there, most of which you'll pay an arm and a leg for (though M1 EP 0w-20 is an example of one that can be had from Wal-Mart for $8.xx), so if you want to pay >$10 for some boutique lube the benefits of which you'll never take advantage of, be our guest... Or learn that value proposition is much more "valuable" in the performance of a finished product, and get over a decade old wife's tale. What is so exotic about a red block in FL that drives the necessity of PAO and ester??? What's your technical basis that the M1 0w-40, which is sufficient to protect high end modern Euro vehicles that make WAY more power than vintage cars did, is insufficient? Have you tried a simple experiment, like running a 20w-50 to validate that the higher viscosity will solve your issues?
 

vorteXtreme759

Thread starter
Messages
48
Location
Florida
What is so exotic about a red block in FL that drives the necessity of PAO and ester??? What's your technical basis that the M1 0w-40, which is sufficient to protect high end modern Euro vehicles that make WAY more power than vintage cars did, is insufficient? Have you tried a simple experiment, like running a 20w-50 to validate that the higher viscosity will solve your issues? [/quote] I knew i would catch some [censored] for saying true synthetic Well I guess I should have stated up front the car is a 1994 volvo turbo 940 It is highly modified and the list of mods is very long. T3/T4 turbo running between 15 & 20 psi of boost or more depending on my mood and if I feel like tuning. Worked head, high lift camshaft... just to give an idea. the car is making 302whp 330tq with a relatively conservative tune.
 
Messages
228
Location
NE Oklahoma
This may be apples to oranges comparison, but horsepower wise, I don't think you can do better for lubrication than Mobil 1 15w-50 or Mobil1 0w-40. When it gets really cold like less than 30 F as a high temp and lows around 0 F, I use the 0w-40 product . But most of the year I'm using the 15w-50 in cars that are making 450 HP at the crank, those are small block Fords and big block Fords that are making 575 to 650 HP at the crank. And don't need a turbo to get those numbers. And the post above regarding "true" synthetics is 100% correct. The only people still using that Language are the boutique oils as a marketing ploy. For your Volvo making less than 500 HP, I cant see any reason to change from Mobil 1 0w-40. Can you,go into some detail why you are dissatisfied with the oil. What is the lubrication issue ? Z
 
Last edited:
Messages
1,132
Location
Chicago
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
(though M1 EP 0w-20 is an example of one that can be had from Wal-Mart for $8.xx),
Agree with everything you wrote. However, WM sells EP for $28.68 regular price in Chicago, $2 more than AFE.
 
Messages
5,112
Location
Airlie Beach Australia
Hi, vortexXtreme759 - I can confirm that M1 5W-50 is a top tier M1 product that has a number of Euro Approvals - Porsche for instance for well over a decade It is used by some as a race lubricant - Nurburgring 24Hrs as an example!
 
Messages
3,870
Location
NEUS
I miss my old Red Block. Nobody except Exxon-Mobil really knows what the bast stocks in M1 5w-50 are. It's likely some of their Visom and PAO. Their pricy 0w-50 racing oil might have more PAO, if that's what you want. On the other hand, you can get 5-quart jugs of M1 15w-50 at Wal-Mart for cheap. If you want "real" synthetic, buy Red Line 10w-40.
 

vorteXtreme759

Thread starter
Messages
48
Location
Florida
Originally Posted By: zray
This may be apples to oranges comparison, but horsepower wise, I don't think you can do better for lubrication than Mobil 1 15w-50 or Mobil1 0w-40. When it gets really cold like less than 30 F as a high temp and lows around 0 F, I use the 0w-40 product . But most of the year I'm using the 15w-50 in cars that are making 450 HP at the crank, those are small block Fords and big block Fords that are making 575 to 650 HP at the crank. And don't need a turbo to get those numbers. And the post above regarding "true" synthetics is 100% correct. The only people still using that Language are the boutique oils as a marketing ploy. For your Volvo making less than 500 HP, I cant see any reason to change from Mobil 1 0w-40. Can you,go into some detail why you are dissatisfied with the oil. What is the lubrication issue ? Z
Thanks for all the responses, honestly I would like to use the thinnest oil posible for less frictional loss. But the car has a flat tappet cam and hi tension valve springs plus the heat of the turbo the oil shears down quickly. Maybe I will try the 5w50 or 0w50 if I can find it, I don't think I have ever seen 0w50 mobil one??
 
Last edited:
Messages
3,870
Location
NEUS
Mobil 1's 0w-50 is their racing oil, although it appears to have a strong enough additive package for street use if you're not extending OCIs. It's expensive and overkill, although I'm sure offers a high level of protection. I still think you should give consideration to Red Line 10w-40 if you want "real" synthetic. It's viscosity numbers are right up there with the M1. Amazon has it along with the M1 Racing oil. HTHS viscosity: M1 15w-50 4.5 M1 5w-50 4.4 M1 0w-50 3.8 RL 10w-40 4.4 RT6 5w-40 ~4.0 Do you need something that thick? I don't know, although it won't be long before someone stops by and insists that you use 0w-20. In any case, you can get a jug of Mobil 1 15w-50 at your local WM for about $25. That's something to ponder, and it'll never get cold enough where you are to worry about the 15w part. Here is some more data on Mobil 1 oils.
 
Messages
14,843
Location
Illinois
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I miss my old Red Block. Nobody except Exxon-Mobil really knows what the bast stocks in M1 5w-50 are. It's likely some of their Visom and PAO. Their pricy 0w-50 racing oil might have more PAO, if that's what you want. On the other hand, you can get 5-quart jugs of M1 15w-50 at Wal-Mart for cheap. If you want "real" synthetic, buy Red Line 10w-40.
Also all M1 oils contain esters per their web site. Also you use the phrase "real synthetic" in regard to M1 oils. crzy
 
Last edited:
Messages
311
Location
Hungary
M1 5w50 sold here as synthetic technology for German market. Excellent oil, great add pack for elder cars - I applied it in my 16 yrs old SAAB B205 engine before the engine refurbishment.
 
Messages
6,388
Location
Washington St.
Quote:
Maybe I will try the 5w50 or 0w50
What do you mean that the Mobil 1 0W-40 was too thin? You seem to have hitched your wagon to Mobil, no problem there, so try the Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 or the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40, or the Mobil 1 5W-50. Or try any of another dozen or more equally excellent brands. Don't buy into the hype that very light viscosity oils are better for start up in your engine. They might be, but the difference is so minor that it can't be seen. You are much better off with an oil that provides the excellent lubrication you need at operating temperature. And, don't buy into the hype that PAO or ester base oils are much better in ordinary operation than the better Group III base oils. Now in -50° winters, that's a different story. But not in Florida.
 

vorteXtreme759

Thread starter
Messages
48
Location
Florida
I'm not really on the mobil 1 wagon. I just need a relative high zddp, Synthetic that can take hi Temps. I would like to run redline but I tune the vehicle on occasion and It can see really rich conditions, So it gets relatively short OCI's due to fuel dilution.. Anywhos Im also considering castrol titanium 5w50, 5w40 or 10w40 how do they perform? My owners manual says I can use 5w30,10w30 but if towing or driving up frequent incline they recommend 5w40,10w40,15w40. And as I said I'm not really brand loyal, for my other vehicles I generally buy whatever synthetic is on sale at advance 5qts and filter for $29.
 
Last edited:

vorteXtreme759

Thread starter
Messages
48
Location
Florida
I checked my oil Temps today I got a reading of 306° after a hard run. Engine cooling system temp was 203°(I have a 185 t-stat) The turbo CHRA was at 410°. but the piston oil squirters probably add most of that extra heat and the fact that the engine is putting out 3x what it did from the factory.
 
Messages
15
Location
NSW, AU
FWIW, my 1990 Nissan turbo is almost double factory power (165kw -> 305 kw, or around 400hp at the wheels). I use Mobil 1 0W-40, but my oil temps are under control. From what i've been told you should keep the temps under 250F, but since you're going above that its probably a good idea to run a thicker oil like a 50, but that's a hack. Better yet, get your temps under control and use a 40 smile
 
Top