Quaker State Ultimate Durability or QSGB, PYB

[shell_user]

Hello folks and I need your help with my next oil change that I plan to do Friday. I am pondering Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0W20, 5W20 or Pennzoil Conventional 5w20 or Quaker State Conventional 5w20. Car is 03' Civic with 143k on it currently. My drive to work is highway, and I do very little city and stop and go driving. Car does not consume any oil and I have used some Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 before. I am actually thinking of Pennzoil Ultra 5W20 also. I will be using a bosch or P1 filter

thanks in advance folks

Adam

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I would blend two of the finest "conventional" oils available to make a super oil: 50% Quaker State Conventional and 50% MC-SS both 5w20. I am against blending but this combo works better than any oil Ive run including EDGE with ti 0w20 and Idemitsu.
You dont need 0w oil - who is driving at 30 below - that will kill a car (or yourself) fast. The higher priced major brand oil isnt "synthetic" and has poor(er) lubricity so no use wasting $$ on it.

 

[skyship]

Don't play at oil chemist mixing products from different companies. Where in the Honda manual does it say, "If in doubt about our oil, mix your own!".
If you have to live life in the thin end of the OCI game, then use the manufacturers fully approved oils list and one of their filters until your extended warranty has expired. Then do some UOA based homework and change to a cheapish major brand 5w30 part synthetic or a more expensive 0/30 in Canada or Alaskan winters.
It is fairly safe to mix products from the same company AND the same oil type. Eg If your UOA spin doctor demands you use 7.5/35 then you could mix GTX 5w30 and 10/40 in equal parts.

 

[shell_user]

Guess I will just stick to my old standby Pennzoil Conventional and Pennzoil Ultra then

thanks guys

adam

 

[volk06]

What is your OCI? Where do you live? If you live up north I'd use Quaker State Ultimate Durability due to winter, if in the south Pennzoil conventional.

 

[shell_user]

I dont plan to mix any grades and or brands also so you folks know.

 

[shell_user]

Volk06, I have been using Pennzoil conventional for 6k, and I am in PA.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

If you need a longer OCI to cover thru the winter months, use a synthetic.

 

[shell_user]

Think I may get either Pennzoil Conventional or Mobil Super 5000

 

[Clevy]

Pennzoil Conventional is great. If you want to extend the oil change interval and save your self some work use the Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0w-20 for the winter. I like the 0w grades no matter what the temp is. Usually it's a good basestock and you can't beat the cold flow properties

 

[MarkStock]

For your driving, in a car with no problems, any approved oil at the correct weight will be fine.

Out of the choices you mention, in conventional, I would choose Pennzoil Conventional 5w20. It's cheap, cleans, and has had great used oil analysis.

If it were me, I'd probably go for a 0w20, preferably one that made the specs either approved or stated by the manufacturer that it met the standards. I would go for the one whose HTHS matched the Honda brand oil for the car, and had the highest VI.

 

[shell_user]

I think that the Quaker State Conventional is cheap Mark at $14.39 in my area wal marts. I like that the Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 is a lighter oil than some others from what I read here.

 

[RamFan]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
The higher priced major brand oil isnt "synthetic" and has poor(er) lubricity so no use wasting $$ on it.


Say what now?

 

[sir1900]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite

You dont need 0w oil - who is driving at 30 below - that will kill a car (or yourself) fast. The higher priced major brand oil isnt "synthetic" and has poor(er) lubricity so no use wasting $$ on it.


In my neck of the woods, the only thing that shuts down at 30 below are schools. Otherwise, it's business as usual, so not sure if your above statement is entirely accurate.

Can you clarify what you mean by "higher priced major brand oil"?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Pick any major name excluding Petrocanada

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: shell_user
I dont plan to mix any grades and or brands also so you folks know.
Why not? I just said I have used Castrol EDGE 0w20, Idemitsu 0w20, QS Defy and the mgjic blend works better than any of these premium oils on the pesky Honda FIT L15A7 high compression, 3.5" stroke, horror story, real VTEC engine. Wheres the trust?
Both MC-SS and Quaker State Conventional have their good and bad points, but mixing keeps the best of both and cancels the bad - which IS a rarity in blended oils.

 

[shell_user]

Think I am going with Pennzoil Conventional 5w20 as got a P1 this morning.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Pick any major name excluding Petrocanada


Arco, do you mean that PC is an inexpensive major or are you meaning to avoid it?

 

[Lyman]

I'd choose the Quaker State Ultimate Durability if it were up to me.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Blkstanger
I'd choose the Quaker State Ultimate Durability if it were up to me.

I agree. Longer oil change interval,good oil and can usually be found on sale somewhere. I used it for the first time in my girls windstar. 7000kms into the interval so far and the engine is still nice and quiet,no tapping whatsoever.
I did find pp at a different wal-mart today. 25 bucks a jug,so I bought 4. All 5w-20 so I can blend thinner all the 40 and 50 grades I've got.
I'm an oil hoarder.