I understand, I'm just asking the OP if he knew he was using high calcium oil in a di turbo and if he was ok with it. Even if we all think the risk is low, the di turbo issue is the largest issue with modern oils as far as driving the formulas. Plus, he might want to consider the weight as well. I've seen a uoa that had the CA level at 2800, that is about 2000 points too high for a di turbo if you are believing the indutry. But anyhow, good luck OP, di turbo's are advanced equipment that require some reearch.
Q50 VQ37 Ester oils
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From my perspective, if I was concerned about LSPI and wanted to deviate from specifications, a magnesium based HDEO would probably be my first out of spec choice. Money and availability aside, for that, I'd consider Red Line, too, given that, while high calcium, there is plenty of LSPI quenching moly and zinc.
As much as I apprecite redline's 5w30 formula that we label hemi honey, I would NOT run it in a di turbo until redline wakes up and makes a lspi friendly oil. Real stupid to not have at least one offering with low CA heavy on mag. One of the more disapointing things in the oil world that redline and spit on 50% of the engines being made today when it would be so easy to do. The rest of their formula is so di friendy it isn't funny, I'd almost call them and ask them if they could custom make me 5 or 55 gallon batch with low CA. Anyhow, there are better choises for his eco boost then redline, but it would be a good choice to replace that nissan ester. Also, we have been getting not impressive uao's on first redline run, but they are very good after that, so if he is going to do a uoa I'd wait til second run. peace
The thing is, we don't know if Red Line's chemistry with moly and ZDDP is enough to mitigate LSPI. I wonder what Red Line's view on that would be.
Garak, Obviously you know nothing about the VQ37 and the issues it had with oil overheating forcing it to go into limp mode. Conventional oil?! That engine will sludge up with conventional oil as hard as it is on oil. Also, LSPI is a non issue on. the VQ37. It's irrelevant.
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Originally Posted by Garak
The thing is, we don't know if Red Line's chemistry with moly and ZDDP is enough to mitigate LSPI. I wonder what Red Line's view on that would be.
I emailed Dave on it once, his reply was he never heard of a single case of lspi and redline. Here's my point, what does that matter? If I shell out 50 plus grand on an eco boost, or 80k on a raptor eco boost, I'm going to follow what the entire industry is saying about running a low calcium oil, especially considering it is a very easy change and nearly every oil company is doing it. I see no reason to not make that change, or at a minmum make a specialized formula just for di turbo's. When you charge that much for a quart, pay the extra nickle per qrt to have a higher mag level.
The thing is, we don't know if Red Line's chemistry with moly and ZDDP is enough to mitigate LSPI. I wonder what Red Line's view on that would be.
I emailed Dave on it once, his reply was he never heard of a single case of lspi and redline. Here's my point, what does that matter? If I shell out 50 plus grand on an eco boost, or 80k on a raptor eco boost, I'm going to follow what the entire industry is saying about running a low calcium oil, especially considering it is a very easy change and nearly every oil company is doing it. I see no reason to not make that change, or at a minmum make a specialized formula just for di turbo's. When you charge that much for a quart, pay the extra nickle per qrt to have a higher mag level.
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Garak, Obviously you know nothing about the VQ37 and the issues it had with oil overheating forcing it to go into limp mode. Conventional oil?! That engine will sludge up with conventional oil as hard as it is on oil. Also, LSPI is a non issue on. the VQ37. It's irrelevant.
Maybe you know nothing....
That limp mode is likely the transmission going into limp mode.... Not a motor related circumstance.
And what does that owner's manual state meets the needed standard?? API SN... IlSAC gf-5... Which Pennzoil yellow bottle meets .. nothing like MB 229.5 or Porsche C30 standards which are way, way beyond basic API standard called for in a typical VQ 3.7 owner's manual.
Garak, Obviously you know nothing about the VQ37 and the issues it had with oil overheating forcing it to go into limp mode. Conventional oil?! That engine will sludge up with conventional oil as hard as it is on oil. Also, LSPI is a non issue on. the VQ37. It's irrelevant.
Maybe you know nothing....
That limp mode is likely the transmission going into limp mode.... Not a motor related circumstance.
And what does that owner's manual state meets the needed standard?? API SN... IlSAC gf-5... Which Pennzoil yellow bottle meets .. nothing like MB 229.5 or Porsche C30 standards which are way, way beyond basic API standard called for in a typical VQ 3.7 owner's manual.
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Garak, Obviously you know nothing about the VQ37 and the issues it had with oil overheating forcing it to go into limp mode. Conventional oil?! That engine will sludge up with conventional oil as hard as it is on oil. Also, LSPI is a non issue on. the VQ37. It's irrelevant.
No, I know nothing about them whatsoever.
The engine limp mode, which does exist, does not happen at a temperature that significantly stresses the ability of a conventional oil to do its job over the very short OEM OCIs. The limp mode happens during hard driving and not during normal driving. I've personally never come across it once during 150,000 km of usage even while using a 40 grade or a 3.5 HTHS 5w30. Nonetheless, if someone is engaged in driving practices that regularly, or even occasionally, bring them into limp mode, it's time to upgrade the engine oil cooling, which is a fairly straightforward modification. You're forgetting a very important point about basic physics. An oil like Red Line 5w30 will get hotter than an ILSAC 5w30, therefore more readily bringing the VQ37 to limp mode. If one is experiencing limp mode, the answer to that isn't a thicker oil. The answer is to improve engine cooling first. I'm also aware the LSPI is not an issue with these engines. Burla and I were discussing another matter, only tangentially related because of Red Line being brought up. Note I was mentioning Ford. You're lucky I read this before burla did, or he would have given you what for over it.
As bbhero points out, the vehicle calls for the current API spec or newer 5w30 with ILSAC being optional. A properly changed conventional over OEM severe service intervals isn't a concern. Where I do have concerns with Infiniti is when that engine was deprecated and OCIs went to 10,000 miles with conventional being permissible. 3750 miles on PYB is a breeze on a 3.7 under normal driving conditions. On the turbo replacement, 10,000 miles on PYB might be questionable.
I'm the first one to try a thicker oil (like Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle 5w30) or experiment out of spec where reasonable to do so. However, "VQ37" isn't a justification for a $100 DIY oil change. I have no problem with Motul or Red Line where someone can actually gain something from their use. This scenario isn't one of them, and I can list about two dozen oils right off the top of my head to use ahead of them in a 3.7. I can still keep the number quite high while disqualifying all ILSAC oils. His idea to use M1 0w-40 will work splendidly at one third the cost of a Red Line or Motul. The same goes for any other mainstream A3/B4, C3, E6 and/or E7, E9 type lube.
Garak, Obviously you know nothing about the VQ37 and the issues it had with oil overheating forcing it to go into limp mode. Conventional oil?! That engine will sludge up with conventional oil as hard as it is on oil. Also, LSPI is a non issue on. the VQ37. It's irrelevant.
No, I know nothing about them whatsoever.
The engine limp mode, which does exist, does not happen at a temperature that significantly stresses the ability of a conventional oil to do its job over the very short OEM OCIs. The limp mode happens during hard driving and not during normal driving. I've personally never come across it once during 150,000 km of usage even while using a 40 grade or a 3.5 HTHS 5w30. Nonetheless, if someone is engaged in driving practices that regularly, or even occasionally, bring them into limp mode, it's time to upgrade the engine oil cooling, which is a fairly straightforward modification. You're forgetting a very important point about basic physics. An oil like Red Line 5w30 will get hotter than an ILSAC 5w30, therefore more readily bringing the VQ37 to limp mode. If one is experiencing limp mode, the answer to that isn't a thicker oil. The answer is to improve engine cooling first. I'm also aware the LSPI is not an issue with these engines. Burla and I were discussing another matter, only tangentially related because of Red Line being brought up. Note I was mentioning Ford. You're lucky I read this before burla did, or he would have given you what for over it.
As bbhero points out, the vehicle calls for the current API spec or newer 5w30 with ILSAC being optional. A properly changed conventional over OEM severe service intervals isn't a concern. Where I do have concerns with Infiniti is when that engine was deprecated and OCIs went to 10,000 miles with conventional being permissible. 3750 miles on PYB is a breeze on a 3.7 under normal driving conditions. On the turbo replacement, 10,000 miles on PYB might be questionable.
I'm the first one to try a thicker oil (like Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle 5w30) or experiment out of spec where reasonable to do so. However, "VQ37" isn't a justification for a $100 DIY oil change. I have no problem with Motul or Red Line where someone can actually gain something from their use. This scenario isn't one of them, and I can list about two dozen oils right off the top of my head to use ahead of them in a 3.7. I can still keep the number quite high while disqualifying all ILSAC oils. His idea to use M1 0w-40 will work splendidly at one third the cost of a Red Line or Motul. The same goes for any other mainstream A3/B4, C3, E6 and/or E7, E9 type lube.
ALL, I greatly appreciate all the suggestions for my VQ37 and the EcoBoost!!
Garak, ill give M1 0w40 FS a try in my VQ.
I didn't know about the Calcium in the M1. in my EB at next OCi, ill switch over to something else
This is what makes BITOG great.... sharing the learning and knowledge ...ŽðŸ‘
Garak, ill give M1 0w40 FS a try in my VQ.
I didn't know about the Calcium in the M1. in my EB at next OCi, ill switch over to something else
This is what makes BITOG great.... sharing the learning and knowledge ...ŽðŸ‘
Originally Posted by Garak
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Garak, Obviously you know nothing about the VQ37 and the issues it had with oil overheating forcing it to go into limp mode. Conventional oil?! That engine will sludge up with conventional oil as hard as it is on oil. Also, LSPI is a non issue on. the VQ37. It's irrelevant.
No, I know nothing about them whatsoever.
The engine limp mode, which does exist, does not happen at a temperature that significantly stresses the ability of a conventional oil to do its job over the very short OEM OCIs. The limp mode happens during hard driving and not during normal driving. I've personally never come across it once during 150,000 km of usage even while using a 40 grade or a 3.5 HTHS 5w30. Nonetheless, if someone is engaged in driving practices that regularly, or even occasionally, bring them into limp mode, it's time to upgrade the engine oil cooling, which is a fairly straightforward modification. You're forgetting a very important point about basic physics. An oil like Red Line 5w30 will get hotter than an ILSAC 5w30, therefore more readily bringing the VQ37 to limp mode. If one is experiencing limp mode, the answer to that isn't a thicker oil. The answer is to improve engine cooling first. I'm also aware the LSPI is not an issue with these engines. Burla and I were discussing another matter, only tangentially related because of Red Line being brought up. Note I was mentioning Ford. You're lucky I read this before burla did, or he would have given you what for over it.
As bbhero points out, the vehicle calls for the current API spec or newer 5w30 with ILSAC being optional. A properly changed conventional over OEM severe service intervals isn't a concern. Where I do have concerns with Infiniti is when that engine was deprecated and OCIs went to 10,000 miles with conventional being permissible. 3750 miles on PYB is a breeze on a 3.7 under normal driving conditions. On the turbo replacement, 10,000 miles on PYB might be questionable.
I'm the first one to try a thicker oil (like Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle 5w30) or experiment out of spec where reasonable to do so. However, "VQ37" isn't a justification for a $100 DIY oil change. I have no problem with Motul or Red Line where someone can actually gain something from their use. This scenario isn't one of them, and I can list about two dozen oils right off the top of my head to use ahead of them in a 3.7. I can still keep the number quite high while disqualifying all ILSAC oils. His idea to use M1 0w-40 will work splendidly at one third the cost of a Red Line or Motul. The same goes for any other mainstream A3/B4, C3, E6 and/or E7, E9 type lube.
I have to agree on the Rotella MV, I just posted a UOA on my last OCI and it bested QSUD, PP and Mobil Super by a mile. My engine is particularly hard on oil and it's the only oil so far that did not shear in a 20 grade.
I got it from napa at 50$ plus tax for a 5 litres jug and also there is a 7$ MIR at the moment in Canada.
It is also SN PLUS!
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Garak, Obviously you know nothing about the VQ37 and the issues it had with oil overheating forcing it to go into limp mode. Conventional oil?! That engine will sludge up with conventional oil as hard as it is on oil. Also, LSPI is a non issue on. the VQ37. It's irrelevant.
No, I know nothing about them whatsoever.
The engine limp mode, which does exist, does not happen at a temperature that significantly stresses the ability of a conventional oil to do its job over the very short OEM OCIs. The limp mode happens during hard driving and not during normal driving. I've personally never come across it once during 150,000 km of usage even while using a 40 grade or a 3.5 HTHS 5w30. Nonetheless, if someone is engaged in driving practices that regularly, or even occasionally, bring them into limp mode, it's time to upgrade the engine oil cooling, which is a fairly straightforward modification. You're forgetting a very important point about basic physics. An oil like Red Line 5w30 will get hotter than an ILSAC 5w30, therefore more readily bringing the VQ37 to limp mode. If one is experiencing limp mode, the answer to that isn't a thicker oil. The answer is to improve engine cooling first. I'm also aware the LSPI is not an issue with these engines. Burla and I were discussing another matter, only tangentially related because of Red Line being brought up. Note I was mentioning Ford. You're lucky I read this before burla did, or he would have given you what for over it.
As bbhero points out, the vehicle calls for the current API spec or newer 5w30 with ILSAC being optional. A properly changed conventional over OEM severe service intervals isn't a concern. Where I do have concerns with Infiniti is when that engine was deprecated and OCIs went to 10,000 miles with conventional being permissible. 3750 miles on PYB is a breeze on a 3.7 under normal driving conditions. On the turbo replacement, 10,000 miles on PYB might be questionable.
I'm the first one to try a thicker oil (like Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle 5w30) or experiment out of spec where reasonable to do so. However, "VQ37" isn't a justification for a $100 DIY oil change. I have no problem with Motul or Red Line where someone can actually gain something from their use. This scenario isn't one of them, and I can list about two dozen oils right off the top of my head to use ahead of them in a 3.7. I can still keep the number quite high while disqualifying all ILSAC oils. His idea to use M1 0w-40 will work splendidly at one third the cost of a Red Line or Motul. The same goes for any other mainstream A3/B4, C3, E6 and/or E7, E9 type lube.
I have to agree on the Rotella MV, I just posted a UOA on my last OCI and it bested QSUD, PP and Mobil Super by a mile. My engine is particularly hard on oil and it's the only oil so far that did not shear in a 20 grade.
I got it from napa at 50$ plus tax for a 5 litres jug and also there is a 7$ MIR at the moment in Canada.
It is also SN PLUS!
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Garak, great post. You are right it is a cooling issue and my recommendation of Redline 5W30 was based on Ester oil and it's reaction to heat not so much as trying to keep the oil temps down. I agree that the only way to keep those oil temps down in the VQ37 is to install an oil cooler. Regardless of how hard you drive the car, the VQ37 has higher than "normal" oil temps compare to other engines. It's a great engine and pretty much bullet proof. Why they do not make oil coolers standard on these engines baffles me. Yeah most of us will probably drive our cars like grandma but if there is any chance of oil overheating, then measures should be put in place to avoid it. As I stated, any synthetic will probably get by but I do not recommend a conventional oil. Each to it's own. Bottom line, these engines are very hard on oil regardless of your driving habits. As for LSPI, I did jump the gun. No one knows what exactly causes LSPI. I think some of it also has to do with people putting low octane gas in there cars. Ford states a lot of their Ecoboost engine can run on 87 octane but for best performance to run 91 or higher. When it comes to force induction, high octane gas should be used. Yeah it's more expensive but until they get it right, I would not trust the computer to make adjustments on running lower octane gas. Just my opinion.
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Originally Posted by jbutch
I got it from napa at 50$ plus tax for a 5 litres jug and also there is a 7$ MIR at the moment in Canada.
I forget where exactly you are in Canada, but check Blue Wave Energy if you can, the full line Shell distributor, if close enough to you. You'll get it for a little over half that price. I'm sure NAPA will have periodic sales on it, too, but they don't seem to discount the HDEOs as deeply as the PCMOs. I've bought HDEOs from the distributors for years, and have gotten very good pricing.
Eddddd: Oh yes, they do run the oil hot even with mild driving. There's no question about that. I've told this anecdote before. I have changed oil in the taxis with small block Chevs over the years with them running all day with AC on in temperatures around 34 C and I could grab the filter with my bare hands with no problem. With my G37, I wanted to do an oil change one very cold winter day. It was about -35 C out and I was leaving the office. I drove it maybe 10 miles home, and by that time, after jacking it up and opening the skid plate, after only a few minutes running after sitting for hours in -35, I couldn't touch the filter with my bare hands.
I would gather Infiniti expects the average owner to drive them like grandmothers, but that doesn't necessarily explain the 370Z being the same way. Generally, I feel more comfortable with an oil with elevated HTHS in the G37 and if I were to be driving it hard, I'd be looking to improve oil cooling.
I got it from napa at 50$ plus tax for a 5 litres jug and also there is a 7$ MIR at the moment in Canada.
I forget where exactly you are in Canada, but check Blue Wave Energy if you can, the full line Shell distributor, if close enough to you. You'll get it for a little over half that price. I'm sure NAPA will have periodic sales on it, too, but they don't seem to discount the HDEOs as deeply as the PCMOs. I've bought HDEOs from the distributors for years, and have gotten very good pricing.
Eddddd: Oh yes, they do run the oil hot even with mild driving. There's no question about that. I've told this anecdote before. I have changed oil in the taxis with small block Chevs over the years with them running all day with AC on in temperatures around 34 C and I could grab the filter with my bare hands with no problem. With my G37, I wanted to do an oil change one very cold winter day. It was about -35 C out and I was leaving the office. I drove it maybe 10 miles home, and by that time, after jacking it up and opening the skid plate, after only a few minutes running after sitting for hours in -35, I couldn't touch the filter with my bare hands.
I would gather Infiniti expects the average owner to drive them like grandmothers, but that doesn't necessarily explain the 370Z being the same way. Generally, I feel more comfortable with an oil with elevated HTHS in the G37 and if I were to be driving it hard, I'd be looking to improve oil cooling.
m1 and lspi Good general read on m1 and lspi.
These are their current sn+ oils according to their website, maybe it has changed? ...
Mobil 1â„¢ Annual Protection (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ Extended Performance (0W-20 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ Extended Performance High Mileage (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ (0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ High Mileage (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil Superâ„¢ Synthetic (0W-20, 5w30)
Once again begs the question is 0w40 a good weight to use with lspi concerns? m1 0w40 is so close to 12.5 cSt that running 5w30 m1 is a close weight. Anyhow, bonus info I don't know if the OP is still watching.
These are their current sn+ oils according to their website, maybe it has changed? ...
Mobil 1â„¢ Annual Protection (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ Extended Performance (0W-20 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ Extended Performance High Mileage (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ (0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ High Mileage (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil Superâ„¢ Synthetic (0W-20, 5w30)
Once again begs the question is 0w40 a good weight to use with lspi concerns? m1 0w40 is so close to 12.5 cSt that running 5w30 m1 is a close weight. Anyhow, bonus info I don't know if the OP is still watching.
When comparing M1 5w30 to 0w-40, chemistry aside, the HTHS of the M1 0w-40 is significantly higher, and that's generally the idea behind selecting it. My 5w30 is of similar HTHS to most A3/B4 lubricants, just like Red Line's 5w30.
Little late to the party, but I will add that it is more important to change the oil at regular intervals than what brand of oil goes in, as others have mentioned, this engine is notoriously hard on oil. I've always changed at 8000km, using both conventional and synthetic. I currently have 53,000 km on the odometer.
When i first acquired my Q50 in 2015, the Nissan Ester oil was largely panned by the BITOG and Nissan communities because UOA results were generally poor, with the biggest criticism against it was it's lack of shear stability. Maybe times have changed in the era SN Plus, who knows, but to me, many brand name oils you can find on Walmart shelves today is more than enough to satisfy Nissan's recommendations.
My opinion is, if you are going to drive it like you stole it, spend the money and go with a boutique oil (Red Line comes to mind), otherwise, keep some of that money you were going to spend on oil, and take your girlfriend out for ice cream instead. You can satisfy both the girl and the car without spending extra cash.
When i first acquired my Q50 in 2015, the Nissan Ester oil was largely panned by the BITOG and Nissan communities because UOA results were generally poor, with the biggest criticism against it was it's lack of shear stability. Maybe times have changed in the era SN Plus, who knows, but to me, many brand name oils you can find on Walmart shelves today is more than enough to satisfy Nissan's recommendations.
My opinion is, if you are going to drive it like you stole it, spend the money and go with a boutique oil (Red Line comes to mind), otherwise, keep some of that money you were going to spend on oil, and take your girlfriend out for ice cream instead. You can satisfy both the girl and the car without spending extra cash.
Originally Posted by burla
m1 and lspi Good general read on m1 and lspi.
These are their current sn+ oils according to their website, maybe it has changed? ...
Mobil 1â„¢ Annual Protection (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ Extended Performance (0W-20 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ Extended Performance High Mileage (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ (0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ High Mileage (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil Superâ„¢ Synthetic (0W-20, 5w30)
Once again begs the question is 0w40 a good weight to use with lspi concerns? m1 0w40 is so close to 12.5 cSt that running 5w30 m1 is a close weight. Anyhow, bonus info I don't know if the OP is still watching.
Thank you Burla, im still here... Out of that list what would be the best xW30 for my Tuned Ecoboost?
How about PUP 5W30 SN+?
m1 and lspi Good general read on m1 and lspi.
These are their current sn+ oils according to their website, maybe it has changed? ...
Mobil 1â„¢ Annual Protection (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ Extended Performance (0W-20 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ Extended Performance High Mileage (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ (0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil 1â„¢ High Mileage (0W-20, 5W-20, 5w30, 10w30)
Mobil Superâ„¢ Synthetic (0W-20, 5w30)
Once again begs the question is 0w40 a good weight to use with lspi concerns? m1 0w40 is so close to 12.5 cSt that running 5w30 m1 is a close weight. Anyhow, bonus info I don't know if the OP is still watching.
Thank you Burla, im still here... Out of that list what would be the best xW30 for my Tuned Ecoboost?
How about PUP 5W30 SN+?
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High cSt for the 30's between 11-12, highest moly the better lspi quencher near 200ppm, low calcium so sn+ - the most important being the low CA.
Maybe QSUD, New Rotella gas and truck, Amsoil SS 5w30. To be honest I haven't compiled a list or researched because I don't have a di of anykind, but eco boosts are bad [censored] and if I was to have one I would look at the criteria above and hunt out a formula. I would at least look at toyota's oem fluid that is 800ppm moly, I don't know the CA levels or if it is sn+ or will be when gr-6 hits. I know Amsoil is on the thin side for cSt, but it is built for di turbo's. Look at enoes, shaffers,motor craft syn or syn blend.
I love Ford, if it were mine, I'd look hard at qsud or Amsoil. Keep up on it, maybe verify with a uoa, things change so fast lately, qsud used to be just soso moly, now stacked, I have a feeling more oils will go this way with new rags, buy who knows? GF-6 will change everything again. m1 is always a good fall back, and their 0w30 is a top oil imo if you ever go to cold state or are -20f and they were ahead of everybody with di turbo oils, I just wished they would bump up moly.
Maybe QSUD, New Rotella gas and truck, Amsoil SS 5w30. To be honest I haven't compiled a list or researched because I don't have a di of anykind, but eco boosts are bad [censored] and if I was to have one I would look at the criteria above and hunt out a formula. I would at least look at toyota's oem fluid that is 800ppm moly, I don't know the CA levels or if it is sn+ or will be when gr-6 hits. I know Amsoil is on the thin side for cSt, but it is built for di turbo's. Look at enoes, shaffers,motor craft syn or syn blend.
I love Ford, if it were mine, I'd look hard at qsud or Amsoil. Keep up on it, maybe verify with a uoa, things change so fast lately, qsud used to be just soso moly, now stacked, I have a feeling more oils will go this way with new rags, buy who knows? GF-6 will change everything again. m1 is always a good fall back, and their 0w30 is a top oil imo if you ever go to cold state or are -20f and they were ahead of everybody with di turbo oils, I just wished they would bump up moly.
pdf qsud 5w30
Looks pretty good there man, we know the moly is up in this formule from voa's and uoa's, it is sn+, and has a viscosity of 11.6 at operating to offer some protection for that tuned eco boost. What we don't know is how the viscosity will be at the end of an interval to make a final judgement on it, with tbn to set the interval as well. For that we would need a uoa with your truck.
Looks pretty good there man, we know the moly is up in this formule from voa's and uoa's, it is sn+, and has a viscosity of 11.6 at operating to offer some protection for that tuned eco boost. What we don't know is how the viscosity will be at the end of an interval to make a final judgement on it, with tbn to set the interval as well. For that we would need a uoa with your truck.
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