Put Wrong Oil Type Into Troy Bilt Pony 17.5hp

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Originally Posted By: Rand


you read randomly on the internet to use a certain grade of oil 15w50 instead of the recommended 5w30/straight 30wt.. then bought an even thicker grade...then filled it without checking the level.. then mowed 4x....decision process suspect.... were alcohol or drugs involved?

Also 2 quarts is 64oz of oil not 48.. it was severely overfilled.




1) Unhelpful
2) Rude
3) Correct about being overfilled

20W-50 is just fine for air cooled engines in hot climates, under stressful conditions.

The HTHS (high temp viscosity) of Castrol GTX 20W-50 is 3.7, other 20W-50 conventional oils are similar.
The HTHS of straight 30 is, you guessed it, 3.7 or so.

Remember, air cooled engines typically run hotter than liquid cooled engines and HTHS is an oil spec that matters for this application.

You picked an appropriate oil. You probably overfilled it.
 
For 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit ambient temperatures 20W-50 is an excellent oil for an air cooled engine. If it were mine I would leave it in for the summer.

20W-50 would be too thick for winter temperatures, but you are not mowing in the winter.
 
Following your owner's manual: Good. Following random recommendations on non-specific internet sites: Bad.

I would keep using the 20w-50 with the engine filled to the proper level, not 20 ounces overfilled. Next oil change, use what the manual says.
 
I appreciate everyone's input. First of all, many of you suspect me of being a troll, which I'm not and one of you commented that maybe there was some illegal drug use or alcohol involved in my decision making process-wrong again! Two basic things that I took away from everyone's comments that I severely overfilled it (because 2 quarts = 64 ounces not 48), maybe I need to go back to school and take arithmetic again (LOL) and that I used the wrong TYPE OF OIL. Which most of you suggested something that ends in a 30 (like SAE 30), so next time I will refill with SAE 30, check measuring dipstick as adding new oil to make sure that I DO NOT overfill and start it up and I'm off and running!


I admittedly do not know much about these type of things but am learning day by day. I would simply say that my mistake was due to HUMAN ERROR! Thanks again for everyone's input. Peace Out!
 
My B&S push mower called for SAE30 but I didn't have any, so I used GTX 20W-50 and it worked fine for years. No engine smoking.

If my mower gives me trouble, first thing I do is clean the spark plug and clean the air-filter. Maybe check the fuel lines for bits of grass.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: beanoil
Probably no harm done. But your first mistake was believing what's on the interwebs. A quick google got me your OWNERS MANUAL, and in it it specifically refers your to the ENGINE MANUAL for oil type, weight, and quantity.
2 engines on that model according to the MANUAL, Briggs and Kohler, neither of which would take 15w50.
So drain the oil you have in it, refer to the MANUAL, and get what's listed in it. From artwork, and hints in the MANUAL, it looks like pressure lube systems on both engines, so should be no harm done to the engine. If there is a filter, did you change it as well? If not, a new filter, a couple quarts of what recommended in the book, and get back to mowing.


Have in hinted enough in the reply that your manual is the source for info?


Pretty condescending, especially if the OP has a Briggs engine in which case your condescending post is wrong. Every word of it. Briggs has recommended 15W50 synthetic for a few years now for commercial use engines, or engines that run for hours on end.


Well lets see bubba...
While Briggs may have listed a 15w50 for "commercial use engines" as you say, the OP says it's a lawn tractor, not a commercial Deere, Gravely, or other "commercial use engine". And the OP has never disclosed whether it's a Kohler or Briggs.
Now about that pesky "engines that run for hours on end"... The OP said it takes him about 20 to 30 minutes to mow.
Even if he mowed for 3 days straight, Kohler will still recommend a 10w30. And while Briggs may say a 15w50 is OK, (and I agree they do), their RECOMMENDED oil is a straight 30 weight. And while similar, a 20w50 (probably conventional) is not Vanguard Synthetic 15w50, although that really would be splitting hairs.
As well, a snip from the B&S site.. "Consult your engine operator's manual for information specific to your engine. Proper care and maintenance of your equipment is proven to be the key to long engine life. Prior to each engine start, always check the oil dipstick for proper oil level. If you have new equipment or a new engine, oil typically does not come already added."
None of which the OP did, but is what I recommended.
And then there is this on the Briggs site. 4x 30 weights and one full synthetic 15w50 for temps above 100 degrees. Hot where the OP mows?
Oil_rec_chart_smaller.jpg


I stand by my advice, and it seems as though several others gave similar.
You can run whatever you want in anything... don't make it right.
 
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-You chastised him for running 20W50. I and several others pointed out to you that Briggs does in fact recommend a 50 weight oil now. So if he did check his MANUAL, as you referred to several times, he would have found that 15W50 was an approved lube, right there in the MANUAL. If he checked his MANUAL.

-Very few Briggs engines are pressure lubricated, even if they have an oil filter. A $999 lawn tractor does not have a pressure lubricated Briggs engine.

- I agree that 20W50 is overkill for his application, and SAE30 would be a good choice

- Briggs says that synthetic 5W30 offers the "best" protection. Going back to grade school, best means better than others. So in fact, if you read their "recommendations", and want the "best" RECOMMENDED oil choice, per the manual, then you would run synthetic 5W30. Not SAE30.

- synthetic 15W50 is not just for temps above 100 degrees. Its fine to use it above 20 degrees F.

- I think we agree on most points. A 30 weight is perfect for his location and use.
 
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