Purolator PL24651 post use dissection

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WellOiled

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Since the weather was nice I decided to change oil and filter. Out: Valvoline MaxLife 5W30 and Purolator PL24651. In: NAPA Full Synthetic 5W30 and Fram TG2 Manufacture and Mfg. PN: Purolator PL24651 Date Code: F02G04G2 F = Fayetteville, NC Febr 4, 2015 Line = G Shift = 2 Duration miles: 2827 Duration days: 56 Notes: 1. The filter lost anti drain back valve function before 2827 miles yet the ADBV is in excellent shape. frown 2. The ADBV did not have any cuts or tears and was very soft and pliable. smile 3. The filter media did not have any holes or tears. smile 4. Wide pleat spaces were observed near the media seam. shocked 5. Filter completed it's mission but with no ADBV function. shrug 6. This is the second PL24651 I have used that lost ADBV function before 3000 miles. shrug 7. While the gasket is nice, I did not buy the filter for the gasket. wink Photos: Filter label Base exterior Base interior Leaf spring ADBV surface facing filter core ADBV surface facing base plate Media best view Media worst view. Note the piece of epoxy pealing off the end cap. View inside can with some oil. Note: another piece of epoxy that had been caught. The little flecks are corrosion on the inside of the can. The clouds are simple reflections of the sky. View of the bypass valve. Purolator Date Code Table is here Enjoy the photos and let the discussion begin.
 
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That looks fairly good. Why go to a Fram Tough Guard? Was it price? Past problems with the FL-820s? If it’s cost, the NAPA Silver 31372 is a decent choice.
 
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
The filter looks fine, but the ADBV losing function within 3000 miles is not good. Thanks for the C&P.
I am a bit puzzled by this. Valve looks great so I am thinking it is the sealant they use between the base plate and the can. shrug You are welcome.
 
Originally Posted By: MParr
That looks fairly good. Why go to a Fram Tough Guard? Was it price? Past problems with the FL-820s? If it’s cost, the NAPA Silver 31372 is a decent choice.
1. Motorcraft FL-820s have given me troubles in the past. One with tears. One in the stash with rust. 2. Fram Tough Guards are always available and Walmart is much closer than NAPA. Thinking I may want to run the synthetic to 5K, so I grabbed the Tough Guard (with silicone ADBV) instead of an eCore (with nitrile combo valve) I have in the stash. 3. I used a few standard WIX and they are good. I also picked up a NAPA gold on sale the other day. 4. I can not say I am thrilled with the nitrile combo valves used on the eCores, the NAPA Silver, the NAPA ProSelect and it's siblings. 5. One of these days I may run a NAPA Silver just so I know. You are welcome.
 
Puro ADBVs must be kind of ill designed. I ran a 20195 on my Liberty for years and always had startup rattle, but I was too stupid to know what that was. Finally started using TGs and it went away.
 
WellOiled I ran a lot of NAPA Gold filters on a ‘91 Ranger 3.0 V6. They were very similar to the FL-400s. Being similar, I mean the bypass is at the base end of the filter. I see that same feature in the WIX/NAPA Gold filters for the 2017 2.0 Ecoboost.
 
Originally Posted By: HoosierJeeper
Puro ADBVs must be kind of ill designed. I ran a 20195 on my Liberty for years and always had startup rattle, but I was too stupid to know what that was. Finally started using TGs and it went away.
Thanks for the kind words and the tip on the Tough Guard. I was not very sharp either. I did not listen to some of the BITOG greats. However, I started cutting filters, taking notes and keeping score. Tally: Motorcraft FL820S - I have had at least one tear and rust on the outlet side of the filter. Champlab PH820 - nice filter element but the combo valve loses ADBV function about 2000 miles into a conventional 5W30 oil change. AC Delco PF1250 - nice filter element but the combo valve loses ADBV function about 2000 miles into a conventional 5W30 oil change. Purolator PL24651 - 2 each have lost ADBV function before 3000 miles using conventional 5W30 oil. Fram TG2 is currently in use Another silly thing. I have way too many filters in the stash to use up. wink
 
Originally Posted By: MParr
WellOiled I ran a lot of NAPA Gold filters on a ‘91 Ranger 3.0 V6. They were very similar to the FL-400s. Being similar, I mean the bypass is at the base end of the filter. I see that same feature in the WIX/NAPA Gold filters for the 2017 2.0 Ecoboost.
The WIX 51372 / NAPA Gold 1372 are metric, fit the 4.0L V6 cologne engine ('01 to '11) and have dome end bypasses. Many think it is a patent issue. This engine seems clean enough that a dome end relief valve would not be a problem. I may consider the 3" OD filters as they seem to be more tear resistant from the posts I have seen. Likely would not be an issue for the short OCIs I am running.
 
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Well noted. I unfortunately don’t have a stash. I normally get filters when I buy oil for my Escape. For the KIA, I drop by either the KIA or Hyundai dealership.
 
Originally Posted By: MParr
Well noted. I unfortunately don’t have a stash. I normally get filters when I buy oil for my Escape. For the KIA, I drop by either the KIA or Hyundai dealership.
I think the ideal stash size would be two filters. This way if you have troubles with one of them, you have a backup and don't have to beg for a ride to get another filter. I should have bought and tried 1 each until I found the happy camper. Instead, I made an order with Rockauto for close out filters. It makes sense to buy a dozen just to get the shipping costs down. In hind sight, this really is a mistake. Thanks for the thoughtful replies.
 
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WellOiled Your Welcome. I’ve been doing my own oil changes for 40 years and it’s never too late for me to learn something new. I’ve never cut open any filters. It may be time to start, especially on the KIA.
 
Very Good job here Welloiled. Another bites the dust smile I hope the Fram Tough Guard works out well. I had a start up rattle with a yellow Purolator as well. Only time my car ever has had that phenomenon.
 
Originally Posted By: MParr
WellOiled Your Welcome. I’ve been doing my own oil changes for 40 years and it’s never too late for me to learn something new. I’ve never cut open any filters. It may be time to start, especially on the KIA.
I encourage you to do it. I don’t regret doing it. Using the cutter below, I can open one in 60 to 90 seconds and not damage the element. This is a good way to see what is being trapped in the filter. This cutter works well: Longacre Oil Filter cutter
 
Keep us updated on the TG, curious to see how it does in the ADBV department. So far, I'm tied between the TG and Wix/Napa Gold, edge going to the TG so far since I can get it at Walmart with my oil.
 
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