Pulsating brakes/shaking steering wheel

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I'm having an intermittent shaking steering wheel and brake pulsation problem on my 2008 Honda Accord with 125,000 miles. The rotors and pads where replaced approximately 6 month/6,000 miles ago. I used pads and rotors that have performed well for me several times in the past (did not use "economy" parts). Any help in diagnosing the problem will be greatly appreciated. Here are some of my observations:
• Pulsation /shaking does not always occur immediately and when it occurs it is not always to the same degree or magnitude
• Pulsation /shaking does occur on every trip
• Pulsation /shaking only occurs when braking
• Checked front slider pins and they move freely
• Front brake pads are worn evenly
• There is no pull when braking or driving
• Steering appears to be behaving properly
 
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What do the rotors look like? Any prominent lines in the rotors?

Does the shaking vary with the speed you're stopping from?
 
Sounds like a warped rotor to me. Check for runout. Have you had new tires mounted or rotated since the brake job? Over tightening can warp them.
 
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
What do the rotors look like? Any prominent lines in the rotors?

Does the shaking vary with the speed you're stopping from?



Rotors look OK - plan on measuring thickness this weekend. No lines, scuffs, pits. Worn evenly on both sides

Shaking/pulsation seems to be worse on light to medium braking and then tends to lessen as brakes are applied more strongly. High speed seems to be worse but I think this may be related to the number of wheels rotations per time
 
Originally Posted by MParr
Sounds like a warped rotor to me. Check for runout. Have you had new tires mounted or rotated since the brake job? Over tightening can warp them.

I will ck the run out this weekend. Had new front tires put on a couple of months ago due to a flat.
 
Measuring the thickness isn't going to tell you if they are warped. Lines, scuffs or pits will not tell you if they are warped. You are going to have to put a dial indicator or makeshift tool on the rotors and slowly rotate them. I'm willing to bet the wheels were over torqued when the tires were mounted.
 
I would say warped rotor, this is why I do not cheap out with rotors anymore. I know you said you did not, but from experience this sounds like a warped rotor. The junk metal is proliferating into the mid level options for parts with certain manufacturers unfortunately.
 
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did you do the brake job with fresh new rotors, or did you simply slap on a new set of pads w/o re-surfacing the rotors and/or checking for trueness?


Q.
 
Could also be pad material deposition on the rotors. Try going out to an empty road and bed the pads in again.
 
Originally Posted by mclasser
Could also be pad material deposition on the rotors. Try going out to an empty road and bed the pads in again.

Some brands of brake pads are worse than others for that - but most NAO friction work via cohesive friction, meaning the pads leave a transfer film of friction on the rotors. Akebono pads are own to leave heavy deposits but I've never had "warped" rotors from them.

However, besides from turning rotors the only way to really remove that film of friction are semi-metallic brake pads. Mercedes used to have in their tools/materials catalog a set of "cleaning" pads that were installed in place of the regular pads. You drove the car around the block or for a few miles gingerly, and swap in the regular pads.

That's why I'm not a fan of turning rotors unless they are OEM and you have access to a on-car lathe. A off-car lathe is "true" to the naked eye but there's the issue of lateral run-out. By the time you take off material to resolve any warpage or other issues, you can be close or above the max spec for thickness and introduce more issues.
 
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.
 
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.



OP should see if he has access to a temp gun. Take a reading after driving around the block a few times with heavy brake applications.
 
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.



OP should see if he has access to a temp gun. Take a reading after driving around the block a few times with heavy brake applications.


Well if a caliper is sticking..then no need for heavy brake applications..
 
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.



OP should see if he has access to a temp gun. Take a reading after driving around the block a few times with heavy brake applications.


Well if a caliper is sticking..then no need for heavy brake applications..








Do you not think if it was stuck permanently he would not of already been tipped off, he would not have made it a block before that wheel and rotor was almost glowing, not to mention the resistance he would have felt. The only other option in regards to sticking would be that one of the 3 brakes was somehow "slower" in its release when he got off the brake.
 
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.



OP should see if he has access to a temp gun. Take a reading after driving around the block a few times with heavy brake applications.


Well if a caliper is sticking..then no need for heavy brake applications..








Do you not think if it was stuck permanently he would not of already been tipped off, he would not have made it a block before that wheel and rotor was almost glowing, not to mention the resistance he would have felt. The only other option in regards to sticking would be that one of the 3 brakes was somehow "slower" in its release when he got off the brake.


Not to mention it would pull or push vehicle in certain direction.
 
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Originally Posted by domer10
I would say warped rotor, this is why I do not cheap out with rotors anymore. I know you said you did not, but from experience this sounds like a warped rotor. The junk metal is proliferating into the mid level options for parts with certain manufacturers unfortunately.


I used top end Raybestos rotors. The thing I can't get my head around is the inconsistency - if the rotor is warped or if there is lateral runout wouldn't it be consistent and not vary?
 
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