New Brake Pads and Rotors?

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I have a 2012 Honda Accord LX-P with 65k and this is my first brake maintenance.

I ordered the akebono act914a and 1336a which come with new clips and springs.

Usually have routine maintenance completed at the dealer. They indicated brakes need replaced soon (5mm front and 4mm rear) and said the rotors are in good shape. This was at the last oil change in January 2019. The pads are thinner now.

Would it still be a good idea to change the rotors?

I've felt pulsation or shudder in the steering Wheel and and brake pedal when I have to brake hard on the interstate. I really noticed it when doing 80-85 on the highway and encountering slow traffic where I had to brake fast.

Don't typically drive that way though

I don't notice any pulsation when braking hard in town around 45 and below.

I'm Assuming new rotors would help eliminate pulsation or shudder in pedal and wheel at high speeds ?
Or is that a result of the OEM pads nearing end of life and the brake pad residue on the current rotors ?

Everything is OEM with 65k at the moment
 
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At 65k they can probably turn the rotors. If they have an on car brake lathe it shouldn't be much labor.

Mine as well have them flush the fluid as well.

If you are doing the job yourself, I would say replace the rotors because most people don't have a lathe.
 
Yes, it's a good idea to change the rotors. And you'll already be doing all the work necessary to remove them. The rotors just slide off
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Coated rotors are awesome because they help stop the rust
 
Yes change them, these rotors today are built so that you can't even turn them once.
Not like they used to be when you could turn them several times
 
Originally Posted by Pelican
Yes change them, these rotors today are built so that you can't even turn them once.
Not like they used to be when you could turn them several times

The fronts can be turned at least once on Honda's.

The rears are 50/50...the solid ones can be too thin. But the rears can often be pad-slapped w/o any issues.
 
Slamming on the brakes of an Accord going 85 mph is never going to be an entirely smooth experience.

Usually you can get two sets of brake pads out of a rotor unless it rusts up or a pad wears down to the metal.
 
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Are you still on the OE rotors?
Yes, change them! If you only turn them, you'll get a little time(maybe 1 yr) but, I'd change them out. Otherwise you'll be messing around with them again sooner than later.
 
If they're the factory-installed rotors (as you indicate), the only harm to changing them is to your wallet. Do they absolutely need changed ? Maybe not, but it won't hurt if you do. As others have said, if you don't, you'll have to later and possibly before the replacement pads wear out whereas if you replace them both, it's possible you'll get another 50k miles or more out of these.

Rotors like Raybestos EHT (coated) are pretty well-thought of and are very inexpensive. Just one option for rotors, of course.
 
Give the hub surface a good wire brushing (for rust and etc) when you have the rotors off if you elect to replace them.
 
Change them, and if you have that many miles on them, switching to ceramics can beat them up. Get a good coated rotor and never worry until another 65k
 
Originally Posted by Audios
switching to ceramics can beat them up.
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Why?

They still might be good if you live in a non-salt zone. You won't know until you look at them.
 
I would change the rotors for few reasons:
- most Honda models have undersized brakes. A 2012 4 cyl Accord has front rotor size of 281.940mm vs for example my Mazda 3 2.0L 277.876mm, A 4mm difference for a sedan that dwarfs my little Mazda 3.
- OP already reports the fronts have a pulsation, having them turned and reduced in thickness will make the pulsation come back quicker.
- Rotors are dirt cheap and if DYI-ing, there is very little reason not to change them, unless the budget is very tight, or it's simply a flip.
 
Originally Posted by KrisZ
I would change the rotors for few reasons:
- most Honda models have undersized brakes. A 2012 4 cyl Accord has front rotor size of 281.940mm vs for example my Mazda 3 2.0L 277.876mm, A 4mm difference for a sedan that dwarfs my little Mazda 3.
- OP already reports the fronts have a pulsation, having them turned and reduced in thickness will make the pulsation come back quicker.
- Rotors are dirt cheap and if DYI-ing, there is very little reason not to change them, unless the budget is very tight, or it's simply a flip.


I have only recently noticed pulsation last week when I was on the interstate (going 80 or so passing some cars) and had to slam on the breaks during rush hour due to stopped traffic, but I am definitely going to be ordering new rotors after reading everyone's reply. I agree it's good insurance.

We live in one of the "rust belt" state I believe - Iowa. We have extreme winters here with lots of salt. I definitely see some pad material from the OEM pads caked onto the OEM rotor.

I was considering BREMBO premium coated rotors - but will take a look at some of the other brands mentioned in the replies. The Akebonos I ordered were ACT914A and ACT1336A which come with new hardware, clips and springs. I am assuming it is recommended to replace pad hardware when able?
 
Since you already have pulsation, if you want to get rid of it you'll either need to turn rotors or replace them, as everyone here is telling you.

If you don't want the pulsation to come back soon, you'll want to check rotor runout, relube brake pins backs and ears, and break-in (bed) the pads properly.
 
I got the ssme issue as you have now with new pads and rotors. If you can safely do some intermittent firm braking from 65-45, id try that first. Could also be that rotors need to be "turned" to ensure smooth braking. Id have the OEM rotors turned..at least this time. Quality of the rotors is likely superior to alot of aftermarket.
 
Originally Posted by graphite13

I was considering BREMBO premium coated rotors - but will take a look at some of the other brands mentioned in the replies. The Akebonos I ordered were ACT914A and ACT1336A which come with new hardware, clips and springs. I am assuming it is recommended to replace pad hardware when able?


More info here: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4408971/brembos-uv-coated-rotors

I usually throw away the aftermarket pad hardware. More often than not, they fit poorly and rub against the rotor. I usually clean and re-use the factory hardware in this climate, but your experience may differ.

Originally Posted by KrisZ
I would change the rotors for few reasons:
- most Honda models have undersized brakes. A 2012 4 cyl Accord has front rotor size of 281.940mm vs for example my Mazda 3 2.0L 277.876mm, A 4mm difference for a sedan that dwarfs my little Mazda 3.
- OP already reports the fronts have a pulsation, having them turned and reduced in thickness will make the pulsation come back quicker.
- Rotors are dirt cheap and if DYI-ing, there is very little reason not to change them, unless the budget is very tight, or it's simply a flip.

If the rotors are machined properly, they can usually last as long as the first time. There is usually plenty of meat on vented rotors on Asian vehicles. The difficult part is finding someone to machine them properly without introducing a bunch of runout to the rotor.....good luck!
 
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