Pulling spark plugs on aluminum head

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by nthach
I've done them cold and always by hand.

NGK and Denso say no anti-seize but I've always put on a bit of C5-A on the new ones.


I would love to drag the little [censored] that wrote that up here and force him to get their plated plug out of the Subaru I did a few years ago.


I always use a bit on spark plugs, even if plated. I know that has been discussed here before, but i have not found a downside to using it. I currently use the permatex al stuff. The loctite heavy duty looks like it would be good as well, really high temp and its good for AL and Stainless, conductive. I may have to try some.

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted by spasm3
The loctite heavy duty looks like it would be good as well, really high temp and its good for AL and Stainless, conductive. I may have to try some.


While Loctite's C5-A is the benchmark for anti-seize, there has been chatter in MRO circles about Cu-containing anti-seize. I've used C5-A for years on spark plugs, wheel studs and where ferrous metal contacts aluminum on bikes. In what we do, it probably matters very little but in more critical applications, then your choice matters more.

Never-Seez(Bostik/Arkema) and Loctite(Henkel) seem to stay away from Cu in their nuclear/marine/food grade anti-seizes.

https://news.thomasnet.com/companys...plication-of-anti-seize-compounds-613808

 

[JeffKeryk]

Agree on a little anti-sieze. I spray a little WD-10-40 into the plug hole to clean the threads (more lubrication, I know).
And drop the torque wrench down 2 lbs or so.

If I cannot run them down by hand I will clean the threads until I can.
I pretty much never install a fastener dry.