Pulled rod caps off...

[meep]

too big a chunk to be a wear metal. Dont know if that would "float" down with the oil from the head either. Piston skirt? t-chain mechanicals a great guess. bearing surfaces would have to be pulverized to escape from captivity.

 

[onion]

Personally, I wouldn't bother with plastigauge on bearings that look that good. If the top halves look like those bottom halves, then I guarantee that they're all in spec or really close.

 

[steve20]

wear pattern looked like oil/air filtration could be better--are you using a KN air filter?
Other folks thinks the patterns is OK, so maybe it's me--I haven't built an engine since 92

Steve

 

[robertcope]

Originally Posted By: steve20
wear pattern looked like oil/air filtration could be better--are you using a KN air filter?
Steve


I do have a CAI on the car, but I am running an AMSOIL air filter. Oil filters are usually Mann filters, with an occasional Bosch and OEM thrown in.

robert

 

[mechtech2]

Thanks XS 650!
I try to keep internet posts to a minimum of words. Often TOO little to explain thing correctly.

Plastigauge is very accurate. It is up to the user how accurate.

Plastigauging a rod bearing in a car is tough. One side has to be pressed against the journal hard, while the cap is tightened. With no movement.
One thing for sure... Your clearance will NOT be smaller than what is read! But it could easily be larger if we did not do it right.

 

[spasm3]

I am wondering if this could be some aluminum casting excess that is vibrating loose with track time. Is this an aluminum block?

 

[robertcope]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
I am wondering if this could be some aluminum casting excess that is vibrating loose with track time. Is this an aluminum block?


I wish! No, it is an iron block an aluminum head. I would think by 110K miles that anything that is going to wear in that manner would have worn, but I guess anything is possible.

robert

 

[robertcope]

Update. I'm an idiot. I put it back together with two rod caps swapped. This was not a good thing. Ended up spinning a rod bearing on startup. Pulled it apart, replaced the bad bearings, and put it back together again [hopefully] correctly. I didn't bother measuring anything, I figure it will either last another 100K miles or it won't, but there isn't much I can do for it now.

Waiting for the Permatex to cure before putting oil in it again and firing it up.

Usually I double, triple check this sort of thing, but I didn't feel like second guessing myself this time around as 99/100 it just ends up being a waste of time. I guess the lesson is, that 1/100 time may be important. Oh well.

robert

 

[daman]

How'd the crank journal look?

if it was anything but smooth it's end is near.

 

[mechtech2]

robertcope - You can do 500 things perfectly right, but one mistake can be very costly sometimes.
I hope you cleaned/polished the crank surfaces in some way afterwards.
And you are right, it can last 100k longer, but who knows?

 

[onion]

If that thing is running ok at the moment... with a new rod bearing put into a rod where the bearing has already spun once... I'd be looking to trade that car in IMMEDIATELY.

Or if I was more honest, I'd start saving up right now for a long block.