So I was looking at the spec sheets on these oils and noticed that PYB has WAY more moly than either PU or PP. So if the Group III+ vs Group III vs Group II+ really doesnt matter as some say the base stock doesnt matter, than wouldnt PYB with its high moly level provide better wear and better protection? or am I overlooking something?
PU/PP/PYB moly levels
- Thread starter gregk24
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Originally Posted By: Pete491
Don't quote me on this but I believe the Moly in pu and pp is tri- nuclear which requires less amounts to be as effective as the higher amount of normal Molly in pyb. Pyb is a great dino oil though very robust
Oh ok....is there anybody who can confirm this?
Don't quote me on this but I believe the Moly in pu and pp is tri- nuclear which requires less amounts to be as effective as the higher amount of normal Molly in pyb. Pyb is a great dino oil though very robust
Oh ok....is there anybody who can confirm this?
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: gregk24
So I was looking at the spec sheets on these oils and noticed that PYB has WAY more moly than either PU or PP. So if the Group III+ vs Group III vs Group II+ really doesnt matter as some say the base stock doesnt matter, than wouldnt PYB with its high moly level provide better wear and better protection? or am I overlooking something?
Moly is not a wear reducer, it is a friction modifier.
You need more friction modifier in a mineral oil, be it moly DTC or GMO.
Nothing wrong with PYB, it is a good mineral oil formulation, but don't converge on a particular base oil or additive component.
It is the total formulation that matters.
So I was looking at the spec sheets on these oils and noticed that PYB has WAY more moly than either PU or PP. So if the Group III+ vs Group III vs Group II+ really doesnt matter as some say the base stock doesnt matter, than wouldnt PYB with its high moly level provide better wear and better protection? or am I overlooking something?
Moly is not a wear reducer, it is a friction modifier.
You need more friction modifier in a mineral oil, be it moly DTC or GMO.
Nothing wrong with PYB, it is a good mineral oil formulation, but don't converge on a particular base oil or additive component.
It is the total formulation that matters.
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: gregk24
So I was looking at the spec sheets on these oils and noticed that PYB has WAY more moly than either PU or PP. So if the Group III+ vs Group III vs Group II+ really doesnt matter as some say the base stock doesnt matter, than wouldnt PYB with its high moly level provide better wear and better protection? or am I overlooking something?
Moly is not a wear reducer, it is a friction modifier.
You need more friction modifier in a mineral oil, be it moly DTC or GMO.
Nothing wrong with PYB, it is a good mineral oil formulation, but don't converge on a particular base oil or additive component.
It is the total formulation that matters.
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
Originally Posted By: gregk24
So I was looking at the spec sheets on these oils and noticed that PYB has WAY more moly than either PU or PP. So if the Group III+ vs Group III vs Group II+ really doesnt matter as some say the base stock doesnt matter, than wouldnt PYB with its high moly level provide better wear and better protection? or am I overlooking something?
Moly is not a wear reducer, it is a friction modifier.
You need more friction modifier in a mineral oil, be it moly DTC or GMO.
Nothing wrong with PYB, it is a good mineral oil formulation, but don't converge on a particular base oil or additive component.
It is the total formulation that matters.
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Pete491
Don't quote me on this but I believe the Moly in pu and pp is tri- nuclear which requires less amounts to be as effective as the higher amount of normal Molly in pyb. Pyb is a great dino oil though very robust
Oh ok....is there anybody who can confirm this?
I can't, but, dude - you quoted him after he asked not to be!
Originally Posted By: Pete491
Don't quote me on this but I believe the Moly in pu and pp is tri- nuclear which requires less amounts to be as effective as the higher amount of normal Molly in pyb. Pyb is a great dino oil though very robust
Oh ok....is there anybody who can confirm this?
I can't, but, dude - you quoted him after he asked not to be!
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Pete491
Don't quote me on this but I believe the Moly in pu and pp is tri- nuclear which requires less amounts to be as effective as the higher amount of normal Molly in pyb. Pyb is a great dino oil though very robust
Oh ok....is there anybody who can confirm this?
I can't, but, dude - you quoted him after he asked not to be!
didnt think i did...thats why i asked if anybody could confirm what he said.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Pete491
Don't quote me on this but I believe the Moly in pu and pp is tri- nuclear which requires less amounts to be as effective as the higher amount of normal Molly in pyb. Pyb is a great dino oil though very robust
Oh ok....is there anybody who can confirm this?
I can't, but, dude - you quoted him after he asked not to be!
didnt think i did...thats why i asked if anybody could confirm what he said.
MolaKule
Staff member
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Frequent short trips, many starts, hardly ever sees driving more than 10 minutes. Change ever 3000 miles because of this. Budget is not a concern. I will either use honda oem filter or p1
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Frequent short trips, many starts, hardly ever sees driving more than 10 minutes. Change ever 3000 miles because of this. Budget is not a concern. I will either use honda oem filter or p1
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Frequent short trips, many starts, hardly ever sees driving more than 10 minutes. Change ever 3000 miles because of this. Budget is not a concern. I will either use honda oem filter or p1
Then go with PYB.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Frequent short trips, many starts, hardly ever sees driving more than 10 minutes. Change ever 3000 miles because of this. Budget is not a concern. I will either use honda oem filter or p1
Then go with PYB.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Frequent short trips, many starts, hardly ever sees driving more than 10 minutes. Change ever 3000 miles because of this. Budget is not a concern. I will either use honda oem filter or p1
Then go with PYB.
Totally agree with that, no sense in spending for the high cost synthetics if you are just going to be dumping it that often. PYB will go further than 3k in that honda 2.4 also if you want to stretch it out a little.
Are you changing more often then 1 year? If not i would say 5k or 1 year and you still have plenty of wiggle room.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Frequent short trips, many starts, hardly ever sees driving more than 10 minutes. Change ever 3000 miles because of this. Budget is not a concern. I will either use honda oem filter or p1
Then go with PYB.
Totally agree with that, no sense in spending for the high cost synthetics if you are just going to be dumping it that often. PYB will go further than 3k in that honda 2.4 also if you want to stretch it out a little.
Are you changing more often then 1 year? If not i would say 5k or 1 year and you still have plenty of wiggle room.
1) You won't be able to establish any difference in 'wear' between those choices.
2) You got a recommendation from the most knowledgeable member on here to use PYB b/c at your short intervals, anything more is a waste of $
3) Will you listen to him?
2) You got a recommendation from the most knowledgeable member on here to use PYB b/c at your short intervals, anything more is a waste of $
3) Will you listen to him?
1) I think they even made a sticky about abbreviations but
PU = Pennzoil Ultra
PP = Pennzoil Platinum and
PYB = Conventional Pennzoil (Yellow Bottle)
2) Because they've used them so much on this site, even I've memorized them. Shortcuts are there for a reason.
PU = Pennzoil Ultra
PP = Pennzoil Platinum and
PYB = Conventional Pennzoil (Yellow Bottle)
2) Because they've used them so much on this site, even I've memorized them. Shortcuts are there for a reason.
Since you are considering PP, I would suggest using QSUD. It is virtually similar to PP according to petroleum quality institute of America. It is only a few more bucks that dino oils. For your short trips, etc my vote is for QSUD. Good bang for your bucks.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Frequent short trips, many starts, hardly ever sees driving more than 10 minutes. Change ever 3000 miles because of this. Budget is not a concern. I will either use honda oem filter or p1
As you've been told on the other 3 threads you've started on this topic, @ 3k miles OCI, it doesn't matter BEFORE you use them (chemistry specifications, others' experience, etc. aren't sufficient proof YET)...
You won't know which is better in YOUR particular engine until you try them...and monitor them carefully....in actual use, you may find one is quieter, smoother, burns less than the others...
...the proof of the pudding is in the eating...
Here's what Kitacam looks like after 100k miles of 60/40 hwy/city driving (20 min runs) on Shell conventional (5-10k miles OCI) and 3k miles of strictly local on PYB 5w30...when I switched over to PP 5w30...toyos are known for tarnishing, if not varnishing...
Looks clean obviously...but...with my use, like your use, being strictly short local trips I decided to switch to PP....and 6k mile OCI
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Then which would you recommend? PU, PP, or PYB, or even QSUD?
It depends on your 1) driving conditions, 2) intended Oil Change Intervals, 3) Budget.
Frequent short trips, many starts, hardly ever sees driving more than 10 minutes. Change ever 3000 miles because of this. Budget is not a concern. I will either use honda oem filter or p1
As you've been told on the other 3 threads you've started on this topic, @ 3k miles OCI, it doesn't matter BEFORE you use them (chemistry specifications, others' experience, etc. aren't sufficient proof YET)...
You won't know which is better in YOUR particular engine until you try them...and monitor them carefully....in actual use, you may find one is quieter, smoother, burns less than the others...
...the proof of the pudding is in the eating...
Here's what Kitacam looks like after 100k miles of 60/40 hwy/city driving (20 min runs) on Shell conventional (5-10k miles OCI) and 3k miles of strictly local on PYB 5w30...when I switched over to PP 5w30...toyos are known for tarnishing, if not varnishing...
Looks clean obviously...but...with my use, like your use, being strictly short local trips I decided to switch to PP....and 6k mile OCI
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Perhaps this....
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: TXCarGeek
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
You might enjoy reading some of the oil characteristics at Petroleum quality institute of americal website. They evaluate and post many different oil properties. This includes dino and synthetic oils. And it will detail the add packs, etc. Many happy hours of reading and comparing
Thanks for the tip
Here is the link yet again if you want to compare the last batch of synthetics they tested.
http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: TXCarGeek
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
You might enjoy reading some of the oil characteristics at Petroleum quality institute of americal website. They evaluate and post many different oil properties. This includes dino and synthetic oils. And it will detail the add packs, etc. Many happy hours of reading and comparing
Thanks for the tip
Here is the link yet again if you want to compare the last batch of synthetics they tested.
http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html
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