PU 5w20 & LM MoS2, 11895 Mi, '09 Fit Sport 1.5l

[gib]

As promised in a LiquiMoly thread in the oil additive section, here is the latest UOA on my mother's Fit which included a dose of MoS2. As we can see from the bloodbath, it killed the engine.

My mother does not drive particularly hard; very little serious acceleration and certainly no speeding. The bulk of her driving is to and from work which is ~20 miles of mostly highway cruising each way. I drive the car on occasion and work it harder, but that accounts for a small fraction of total use.

OLM: 5% remaining
Air Filter: Purolator A26052
Oil Filter: Purolator PureONE PL14459
Additives: LiquiMoly MoS2 at the proper dosing
Previous oils (old to new): Factory Fill, Mobil 1 0w20, Pennzoil Ultra 5w20

 

[Donald]

Not sure why you would drive your mothers car hard? Save it for your own car.

PU is one of the best oils out there, so I am not sure why you felt an additive was needed.

The UOA looks good, but we would expect that from PU.

 

[chubbs1]

Terrible just terrible. This engine could tank any minute...lol You could easily extend to 15k, this oil looks like it is in great shape.

 

[bourne]

nice ! that engine is an all star when it comes to UOAs ( and real world performance too im sure ). Great product from SOPUS and Honda, seem to work really well together. I wouldnt worry about mixing any MoS2 with the oil. Seems to do just fine on its own.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Looks very nice for 12k/13mo OCI. I would keep the same OCI with PU, once a year OCI is perfect for this engine and the driving condition.

 

[spasm3]

Looks great! Wow you ran the factory fill to 10k? that took some stones. Not bad numbers for the factory fill either.

 

[gib]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Not sure why you would drive your mothers car hard? Save it for your own car.

PU is one of the best oils out there, so I am not sure why you felt an additive was needed.

Please read what I said more carefully. I said I drive the car "harder", which is a relative term. Since she is so mellow with it, yes, when I take it out, I do drive it harder than she does. That does not mean I drive it hard. The -er suffix is important. There is a difference.

I didn't feel an additive was needed. However, I do like to experiment with different products and post the results for members here who may be interested. This was just one of my experiments.

 

[gib]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Looks great! Wow you ran the factory fill to 10k? that took some stones. Not bad numbers for the factory fill either.

And the OLM was still at 20% too, so technically I changed it a little early. Kind of wild. Once it ticked 10k though, I said that was far enough. heh

 

[SubyRoo]

I dont see why some people get so worked up about driving a car a little hard sometimes. If it has a tach that redlines at 7k you can bet I will put the needle there. I had a gsr integra at one time (really miss it too) and vtec diddnt engage until after 5k rpms and I went over it all the time. It still runs awesome to this day.

I have PU5w20 in my truck right now with lubegard bio tech in it. I think I may do a uoa just to see how it affected the adds. I dont plan on running it anymore either way though.

 

[mauric3]

Wow almost 12k miles with the PU.. that's amazing!

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: mauric3
Wow almost 12k miles with the PU.. that's amazing!

Not really.We figure its a mostly pao basestock so 12000 isn't even pushing it,as the uoa shows us the oil could go even longer in his application.
Oils such as PU,mobil 1 EP,mobil 1 AFE,amsoil's sso line are made for extended drains.Even though the mobil afe line doesnt advertise extended drains its strong pao content means it can go 10k easily in most applications.
We have a member here called tig who has been running 10k drains since the 70's with mobil 1,and his engines aren't dissolving.
Even PP which can be found on sale at least every 6 weeks at walmart is able to do 10k drains in most applications.There are exceptions as some engines are hard on oil or fuel dillution in some DI motors but they are the exceptions.
Most every name brand conventional will do 5000 mile intervals with relative ease and our member Dnewton even used supertech in his villager for a 10k mile interval and the oil wasnt exhausted.
Todays lubricants are simply amazing and most people are resistant to change,so they don't get there money's worth out of a quality synthetic,or they don't maintain their vehicles at all,either way sites like this are great for those of us wanting to learn.
I've learned much since joining here.We have members that i would never come across in my day to day life,and they are a wealth of info for things I would never know otherwise.

 

[Turk]

Oh, you naughty boy!

How dare you evaluate a product. ...and do a report on it as well!

Shame I say, shame! May you feel, no, be inflicted by the pain of the Wrath of Kahn.





j/k

I have it in my GTO as well...

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Turk
Oh, you naughty boy!

How dare you evaluate a product. ...and do a report on it as well!

Shame I say, shame! May you feel, no, be inflicted by the pain of the Wrath of Kahn.





j/k

I have it in my GTO as well...

Yep that snake oil wrecked that engine. Imagine wear metals average and he ran the oil almost twice as long. That snake oil is killing that engine. LOL LM MoS2 is currently in my 2000 Century, I better hurry and get it out!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Izb]

API SM, not API SN.
Not actually...

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: SubyRoo
I dont see why some people get so worked up about driving a car a little hard sometimes. If it has a tach that redlines at 7k you can bet I will put the needle there. I had a gsr integra at one time (really miss it too) and vtec diddnt engage until after 5k rpms and I went over it all the time. It still runs awesome to this day.

I have PU5w20 in my truck right now with lubegard bio tech in it. I think I may do a uoa just to see how it affected the adds. I dont plan on running it anymore either way though.


It brings me back to my 1965 Mustang that I drove hard, lots of burnouts and sand tarts, I was 17 or 18. Then about 200 miles from my house the output shaft in the transmission sheared. I had to with my Dad tow it home and then replace the transmission. I was in college by that time so it took months. So I learned my lesson and now drive cars easy as they last longer and are cheaper to run and more reliable.

 

[SubyRoo]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: SubyRoo
I dont see why some people get so worked up about driving a car a little hard sometimes. If it has a tach that redlines at 7k you can bet I will put the needle there. I had a gsr integra at one time (really miss it too) and vtec diddnt engage until after 5k rpms and I went over it all the time. It still runs awesome to this day.

I have PU5w20 in my truck right now with lubegard bio tech in it. I think I may do a uoa just to see how it affected the adds. I dont plan on running it anymore either way though.


It brings me back to my 1965 Mustang that I drove hard, lots of burnouts and sand tarts, I was 17 or 18. Then about 200 miles from my house the output shaft in the transmission sheared. I had to with my Dad tow it home and then replace the transmission. I was in college by that time so it took months. So I learned my lesson and now drive cars easy as they last longer and are cheaper to run and more reliable.


Just bad luck I guess I havent ever had any real failures other than just routine stuff. To do that to a trans you must have been doing some serious clutch drops

In all honesty I find myself driving pretty conservatively as I get older.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: SubyRoo
I dont see why some people get so worked up about driving a car a little hard sometimes. If it has a tach that redlines at 7k you can bet I will put the needle there. I had a gsr integra at one time (really miss it too) and vtec diddnt engage until after 5k rpms and I went over it all the time. It still runs awesome to this day.

I have PU5w20 in my truck right now with lubegard bio tech in it. I think I may do a uoa just to see how it affected the adds. I dont plan on running it anymore either way though.

Anything to report before and after Lubegard Biotech ?

MOS2 and Lubegard Biotech are high on my list of additives I like to try.

 

[Trav]

But but its PU. Its too thick and the VI is too low and its not even OEM.
Someone screwed up, it cant be correct, it just cant i say.

 

[SubyRoo]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: SubyRoo
I dont see why some people get so worked up about driving a car a little hard sometimes. If it has a tach that redlines at 7k you can bet I will put the needle there. I had a gsr integra at one time (really miss it too) and vtec diddnt engage until after 5k rpms and I went over it all the time. It still runs awesome to this day.

I have PU5w20 in my truck right now with lubegard bio tech in it. I think I may do a uoa just to see how it affected the adds. I dont plan on running it anymore either way though.

Anything to report before and after Lubegard Biotech ?

MOS2 and Lubegard Biotech are high on my list of additives I like to try.


In all honesty I can't tell any difference but the engine is in good shape with 71k miles also. The only reason I tried it was to see if it might help the issue the 4.7 has with cold start noise. I may try a 0w20 oil and just ignore the noise.

 

[mauric3]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: mauric3
Wow almost 12k miles with the PU.. that's amazing!

Not really.We figure its a mostly pao basestock so 12000 isn't even pushing it,as the uoa shows us the oil could go even longer in his application.
Oils such as PU,mobil 1 EP,mobil 1 AFE,amsoil's sso line are made for extended drains.Even though the mobil afe line doesnt advertise extended drains its strong pao content means it can go 10k easily in most applications.
We have a member here called tig who has been running 10k drains since the 70's with mobil 1,and his engines aren't dissolving.
Even PP which can be found on sale at least every 6 weeks at walmart is able to do 10k drains in most applications.There are exceptions as some engines are hard on oil or fuel dillution in some DI motors but they are the exceptions.
Most every name brand conventional will do 5000 mile intervals with relative ease and our member Dnewton even used supertech in his villager for a 10k mile interval and the oil wasnt exhausted.
Todays lubricants are simply amazing and most people are resistant to change,so they don't get there money's worth out of a quality synthetic,or they don't maintain their vehicles at all,either way sites like this are great for those of us wanting to learn.
I've learned much since joining here.We have members that i would never come across in my day to day life,and they are a wealth of info for things I would never know otherwise.


thanks!

BITOG is indeed a very good site! People sharing information and advices is really helpful!

the UOA and VOA are very helpful and tells us how the oil performs after being used and what to expect from bnew oils

I might give a PU 5w20 for my r18 civic on my next service when it hits 15%... I have been using amsoil sso but trying to be more practical and save on the shipping fees and membership fee in the long run... Since i cross the border often.. might as well get something from walmart in bellingham

hopefully my r18 honda civic would love the PU oils like the honda 1.5L honda fit engine