M1 EP 5w20 Genesis Coupe V6 (10,222 miles)

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**wear metal averages established by Blackstone Labs and based on ~6,400 mile oil change intervals from all similar Hyundai engines** -10,222 miles on oil and 157,854 miles on engine at sample date -Mobil 1 5w20 Extended Performance was used with an OEM filter -engine sees a WOT pull to redline at least once every time it is fully warmed up -I drive mostly highway miles (~600/wk) -several hundred miles per month cruising at/near 100mph on Texas toll roads (moderate-high load at moderate-high speed) -also have a CAI and stage 1 ECU tune -previous oils on the report are as follows, all 5w20's and an OEM filter with similar driving usage: Castrol Edge Extended Performance (9k run),Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (11k run), Castrol Edge Extended Performance (8.3k run), regular Mobil 1 (6.6k run) -current fill is Mobil 1 Extended Performance but I am trying a Purolator PureOne filter due to better filtration properties and seeing if it drops the insoluble counts which are consistently around 0.3%. Haven't noticed any additional valvetrain noise due to an aftermarket filter, and yes I am aware of the TSB about them. Seems to show 5w20 and an OEM filter provides adequate protection, even when you have fun with it at higher miles. Thoughts/Feedback?
 
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High heat, hard pulls, aftermarket parts, high speed, 10k interval? That report is top notch!
 
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Originally Posted By: PolarisX
High heat, hard pulls, aftermarket parts, high speed, 10k interval? That report is top notch!
I agree,it looks great!
 

Lethal1ty17

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I *like* the Castrol Edge EP more for whatever reason. Castrol does have a higher flashpoint but seems to be slightly under in the TBN department seeing as my 9k Castrol sample saw less miles than the 10.2k Mobil 1 EP and it's at a lower TBN. Aside from those minor differences, I can't tell much difference in them besides Castrol tends to have more Titanium. Wear metals and viscosity are pretty spot on mile per mile.
 
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Looks to be holding up well considering that a 3.8 engine is beating on it. Do you drive aggressively or grandma style?
 

Lethal1ty17

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Originally Posted By: Matagonka
Looks to be holding up well considering that a 3.8 engine is beating on it. Do you drive aggressively or grandma style?
In my original post you'll see I don't baby it wink
 

FZ1

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Same here. My '14 Accord 2.4 Seems to "like" the Castrol 0w20 better than dealer fill or PUP.
 

Lethal1ty17

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Originally Posted By: FZ1
Same here. My '14 Accord 2.4 Seems to "like" the Castrol 0w20 better than dealer fill or PUP.
I'm happy with the Mobil 1 results. It is easy to find anywhere. So I think I will probably just stick with it from here on out. If it ever stars consuming oil I might bump it up to a 5w30 but aside from that I'll probably just keep doing what I have been.
 
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I agree that this report does look very good. I really like the Hyundai Genesis coupe. If I were to buy another used car this Genesis would be one of my top pics.
 
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Mahzurrah!
I am no fan of 20 grades in Hyundai/KIA's, or 20 grades in general for that matter but I will admit but your UOA's look fantastic. Even so, if you bump to a 30 grade I'd bet your aluminum would be lower still.
 

Lethal1ty17

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Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I am no fan of 20 grades in Hyundai/KIA's, or 20 grades in general for that matter but I will admit but your UOA's look fantastic. Even so, if you bump to a 30 grade I'd bet your aluminum would be lower still.
The engineers determined a 20wt is sufficient, and the UOA shows it. The aluminum numbers are pretty good considering the mileage over what the averages are established at. Even a reduction in aluminum by 2ppm is almost insignificant compared to the fuel mileage impact of increasing the viscosity.
 

Lethal1ty17

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Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Where is the aluminum coming from, the rod bearings?
It is more likely just from the piston skirts. Bearings usually contain more tin/lead/etc than aluminum to my knowledge. The aluminum is at 10ppm at 10.2k miles vs the averages at 8ppm for 6.4k miles, I'm still doing better per mile than average so there's nothing concerning.
 
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"Sufficient" and "adequate". Favorite words to accompany 20 grades. I want "optimum" thank you. We will never know, but I'd bet if you asked the engineers who designed the engine what they really wanted in the engine if they had their "druthers" it would be much closer to a Euro type oil. The 20 grades are bean counter driven, not engineer. JMO. Never the less as I said your UOA's look very good.
 

Lethal1ty17

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Even if a 20wt gave an extra 20% wear on the engine, an average gasoline engine may go 500,000 miles with proper maintenance. Subtract 20% from that and you're still at 400,000 miles...far beyond what 99% of people put on their vehicles anyways. At nearly 160,000 miles she doesn't burn a bit of oil over 10,000 miles and sporty driving, so 20wt seems to do the job just fine.
 
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They spec-ed the Lambda II RS MPi at w20? I thought it was 5w30 or 10w30. Good to know about the UOA. Actually, a 5w20 could be considered "optimum" here. No issues with the UOA and likely a small bump to fuel mileage. Overcapacity is not considered "optimum"... even for engineers. Waste in engineering is not a good thing, it is lazy work. Really, the 20-weight for longer highway runs isn't going to do anything. If you are not seeing oil consumption with that mileage, then there is no reason to suggest that it is causing damage nor is it not protecting anything. Even in vehicles that transitioned from 5w30 to 5w20 between model years with the same powerplant, I have not seen an issue with engine longevity (see Chrysler's 3.3). That being said, seeing a 5w30 engine using 5w20 for high-speed highway cruising in Texas makes the "lighter" oil detractors seem a bit off.
 

Lethal1ty17

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Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
They spec-ed the Lambda II RS MPi at w20? I thought it was 5w30 or 10w30. Good to know about the UOA. Actually, a 5w20 could be considered "optimum" here. No issues with the UOA and likely a small bump to fuel mileage. Overcapacity is not considered "optimum"... even for engineers. Waste in engineering is not a good thing, it is lazy work. Really, the 20-weight for longer highway runs isn't going to do anything. If you are not seeing oil consumption with that mileage, then there is no reason to suggest that it is causing damage nor is it not protecting anything. Even in vehicles that transitioned from 5w30 to 5w20 between model years with the same powerplant, I have not seen an issue with engine longevity (see Chrysler's 3.3). That being said, seeing a 5w30 engine using 5w20 for high-speed highway cruising in Texas makes the "lighter" oil detractors seem a bit off.
Somehow I overlooked this comment and didn't see it until now. 5w20 is spec'd for my 2010 3.8 V6, it also says you can go up to 5w40 "for better protection" or something along those lines as per the manual.The engineers determined 5w20 could do the job so that's what I use, and so far after almost 160,000 miles now - with fantastic UOA's, they seem to be correct.
 
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There has been no evidence with UOAs that 20wt oils produce more wear than 30wt oils. I even used M1 5-20 in 1978 in engines calling for 10-40 and all was well.
 
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