Protection of pristine blueing

[JHZR2]

Picked up a classic 50s (1958 iirc) S&W 17. This thing is pristinely beautiful with that mirror-like bluing that they were famous for back when. I’m curious what is actually best for protecting that and the color case hardened parts.

As many know, I’m a big time Ballistol user, and that will be my go to. But I want to be extra careful protecting this pristine blueing, and cch parts.

Thanks for new recommendations!

 

[Nuclear_42]

Picked up a classic 50s (1958 iirc) S&W 17. This thing is pristinely beautiful with that mirror-like bluing that they were famous for back when. I’m curious what is actually best for protecting that and the color case hardened parts.

As many know, I’m a big time Ballistol user, and that will be my go to. But I want to be extra careful protecting this pristine blueing, and cch parts.

Thanks for new recommendations!

Ballistol is more of a cleaner but it’s very outdated and not very good at anti wear. If you looking to protect from rust just basic Break Free CLP from Walmart is all you need.

 

[JHZR2]

Ballistol is more of a cleaner but it’s very outdated and not very good at anti wear. If you looking to protect from rust just basic Break Free CLP from Walmart is all you need.

I’ve used ballistol for ages, and like that it’s easy on wood for my antiques. I do tend to use slip 2000 or similar on moving parts that need lubrication.

I’m not concerned about rust per se, ballistol does fine for that in my storage setup, I’m just wondering if there’s something more ideal for blueing and cch parts specifically. These original like new finishes are a work of art.

I believe break free has a collector product, for example.

 

[Nuclear_42]

I’ve used ballistol for ages, and like that it’s easy on wood for my antiques. I do tend to use slip 2000 or similar on moving parts that need lubrication.

I’m not concerned about rust per se, ballistol does fine for that in my storage setup, I’m just wondering if there’s something more ideal for blueing and cch parts specifically. These original like new finishes are a work of art.

I believe break free has a collector product, for example.

Well if your a slip 2000 user like me. It’s pretty hard to beat EWL 30. Nice and thick. It stays on for a long time. My wall hanging Milsurps get a coating of CLP once a year and have yet see rust. Just wipe it down once every 6 months if you storing it away for a long time.

 

[Nuclear_42]

I’ve used ballistol for ages, and like that it’s easy on wood for my antiques. I do tend to use slip 2000 or similar on moving parts that need lubrication.

I’m not concerned about rust per se, ballistol does fine for that in my storage setup, I’m just wondering if there’s something more ideal for blueing and cch parts specifically. These original like new finishes are a work of art.

I believe break free has a collector product, for example.

The bluing will not degrade unless you handle the firearm a lot or let staining/ rusting that gets clean up over and over.

 

[JHZR2]

The bluing will not degrade unless you handle the firearm a lot or let staining/ rusting that gets clean up over and over.

It’s a chemical process, same as color case hardening. There’s also other parts of the kit - shop rags for example. Perhaps microfiber would be better than red shop rags. There are also products I’ve forgotten a while - like eezox.

My other classics are nice but this one is like new so I’m going to use it but want to be a bit more careful, and will probably transition that care to my other antiques.

 

[Slick3914]

Renaissance Wax is what you want.

 

[burbguy82]

Picked up a classic 50s (1958 iirc) S&W 17. This thing is pristinely beautiful with that mirror-like bluing that they were famous for back when. I’m curious what is actually best for protecting that and the color case hardened parts.

As many know, I’m a big time Ballistol user, and that will be my go to. But I want to be extra careful protecting this pristine blueing, and cch parts.

Thanks for new recommendations!

I think ballistol would do just fine, just as good as anything else, IMO. It will work, no need to change. If I were to recommend something else, specific to this application it would be Barricade.

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/products/barricade-rust-protection-10-fl-oz-aerosol.html

 

[Pablo]

Any proper lubricant not Ballistol.

 

[JHZR2]

Any proper lubricant not Ballistol.

Im NOT concerned about lubrication per se, rather protection of the blueing and mirror like finish, and the CCH. As noted, I use Slip 2000 for lube points.

 

[Pablo]

Im NOT concerned about lubrication per se, rather protection of the blueing and mirror like finish, and the CCH. As noted, I use Slip 2000 for lube points.

I just hate that stuff and am amazed it protects anything

 

[JHZR2]

I just hate that stuff and am amazed it protects anything

OK Ill bite, whats the issue with Slip? Ive been happy with it for many years. Sometimes I use G-96, or others too. Cant tell a difference... One of my bigger interests is in avoiding too significant a line on the revolver cylinder.

 

[Pablo]

OK Ill bite, whats the issue with Slip? Ive been happy with it for many years. Sometimes I use G-96, or others too. Cant tell a difference... One of my bigger interests is in avoiding too significant a line on the revolver cylinder.

I said nothing about Slip. I have a real problem with Ballistol, but I realize I am in the minority.

 

[JHZR2]

I said nothing about Slip. I have a real problem with Ballistol, but I realize I am in the minority.

Aaah, I misread your response to mine. I mentioned using Slip for the lube points which is why I was confused...

That said, what constitutes a "real problem" with Ballistol? Ive used it very successfully for >20 years now.

 

[Pablo]

Aaah, I misread your response to mine. I mentioned using Slip for the lube points which is why I was confused...

That said, what constitutes a "real problem" with Ballistol? Ive used it very successfully for >20 years now.

You and others, fine.

For me:
Gums up
Doesn't lubricate
Doesn't protect
Doesn't clean modern guns

 

[JHZR2]

You and others, fine.

For me:
Gums up
Doesn't lubricate
Doesn't protect
Doesn't clean modern guns

Ive seen the "gum" on the spray head. Once sprayed and spread, I've never seen it. Nor if I use the non-aerosol version even if pooled up. The "gum" May be a good coat to sit over the blueing on some of these really nice examples I have...

I cant say it doesnt lubricate. Not sure what objective evidence would support that short of gouging or an A/B lubrication of say, a SA pistol slide that has two different lubes on the two sides, and one wears away the finish while the other doesnt.... something like that. Is there something that leaves a heavier lubrication wedge? No doubt...

It cleans well enough to leave a clean patch that Hoppes doesn't have the ability to solve. Thats good enough for me for most cases. Which for me is usually something for a cursory clean between uses. If I wanted to clean heavier, obviously there are more aggressive cleaners... many tools in a toolbox.

Not looking to argue the merits of Ballistol, I agree YMMV, I just havent had an issue over a long while. And I can use something else when and where I choose...

This mirrored pristine antique blueing is a good example of when and where I may choose to use something different.

 

[Tempest1]

I've had good luck with Eezox for preservation and seems to last. Just make sure to use it in a well ventilated area. Carrier solvent is strong. CLP collector gets good reviews but never used it. Corrosion X Aviation is another that I have used with good luck. It's approved by the Navy for aircraft and is easy to use.

I grew up shooting my Dad's 17. It's what I learned on. His is not pristine as it was a hunting side arm. Has had so many rounds through it the hammer sear shelf wore out and had to be replaced several years ago. Still shoots great with the new hammer (lucky to find the old style).

Have had people offer to buy it so they are in demand... but this one is not for sale.

 

[burbguy82]

Im NOT concerned about lubrication per se, rather protection of the blueing and mirror like finish, and the CCH. As noted, I use Slip 2000 for lube points.

There are many Ballistol haters out there, who, for some reason do not like it because of wear protection. It is not an engine, and the same rules do not apply.

In fact, the CZ Scorpion, specifically calls out the use of Ballistol, and that firearm is capable of 1100 rpm.......how that for wear and heat?

I will join forces with you against the Ballistol haters.

 

[JWC86]

Ok OP, you’re going to tell us about this beautiful model 17 and not share a picture with us?

Come on man!

 

[Cropduster172]

Renaissance Wax is what you want.

I bought and used this stuff. It's excellent especially to protect against whatever you might impart to the gun's surface from handling which seems to be what you're mostly concerned with.