previous brake work caused serious problem

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Sep 29, 2015
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Buffalo NY
On todays edition of "it could have cost me my life"

Edit: it seems my spoiler button is not showing up in the post after i added the spoiler
Did my brakes about 6 months ago. Changed the hoses too, everything worked great.
Three months in it was fine and the brake fluid was not moving. But last month I saw that the res was really low. Warning sign. I topped it off looked for leaks and didnt find any since the whole care is black and undercoated with grease.
I added some UV dye to the brake fluid and waited. Lo and behold I found a leak at the front drivers side.
Can the sharp eyed among you care to guess why the hard line and the hose connection became loose and leaked?




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I want to know more about this UV dye in brake fluid, I'm not sure that's miscible.

If I suspect a brake fluid leak I wrap suspect joints in paper towels, idle the engine, then stand on the pedal with all I've got. If it won't pass this stress test it won't leave the property.

The photos aren't much, so my WAG is you put a 3/8-24 line nut in a M10x1.0 hose end. They thread in and kind of hold but don't really. One standard should prevail; the two are dangerously close.
 
Is the hex section that goes through the plate broken free from the plate, therefore movement is transfered to the joint with the nut, and eventually the nut loosens?
 
I want to know more about this UV dye in brake fluid, I'm not sure that's miscible.

If I suspect a brake fluid leak I wrap suspect joints in paper towels, idle the engine, then stand on the pedal with all I've got. If it won't pass this stress test it won't leave the property.

The photos aren't much, so my WAG is you put a 3/8-24 line nut in a M10x1.0 hose end. They thread in and kind of hold but don't really. One standard should prevail; the two are dangerously close.
Mfg. said i can use it but should change the brake fluid shortly after.
 
I want to know more about this UV dye in brake fluid, I'm not sure that's miscible.

If I suspect a brake fluid leak I wrap suspect joints in paper towels, idle the engine, then stand on the pedal with all I've got. If it won't pass this stress test it won't leave the property.

The photos aren't much, so my WAG is you put a 3/8-24 line nut in a M10x1.0 hose end. They thread in and kind of hold but don't really. One standard should prevail; the two are dangerously close.
In my last semester of trade school I built a model engine. The print had you tap the spark plug hole 3/8-24 but the plug you were supposed to use was M10x1.0.

Best we could figure they thought you'd just cram it together (aluminum head). Instead, I ordered the correct M10x1.0 tap. The taps are surprisingly uncommon, even at machinist supply websites.
 
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