Prematurely worn out inner brake pads

That rotor is literally grinding your brake pads into dust!!! TOSS IT !
I’m going to. Im replacing all pads and rotors (motorcraft). My only concern was if this was caused by a sticking piston and if I don’t address the piston the new set of pads would also wear out prematurely. But now it appears the excess surface rust cause the inner pad to wear out to nothing not a piston?
 
When everything is replaced with new drive it for a week pull tire off and inspect, you should be able to tell if pads are contacting rotor, if rotor looks as if it is not getting swept with brake pads you will know ,then replace caliper!
 
When everything is replaced with new drive it for a week pull tire off and inspect, you should be able to tell if pads are contacting rotor, if rotor looks as if it is not getting swept with brake pads you will know ,then replace caliper!
Got it. Thank you
 
I have had this issue on a new 2014 Japan built Nissan. But on the front axle. Ate the inside pads in 15K miles and chewed the rotor. Caliper floated fine. Dealer claimed 'normal wear' as they charged me $360 during a warranty repair for new pads and rotors. I said, that's not normal wear! Crickets.
Car proceeded to eat the next set of pads down to 2mm in about 10K miles.
Wondering if ther is an ABS issue here not quickly releasing hydraulic pressure. Then you have ESC/traction control that eats brakes on curvy roads and quick turns to maintain stability.

- Ken
 
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Rust was clearly the issue for the OP. I suppose it is only natural for this group to constantly fret over slide pins. That might cause the outside of the rotor to become rusty, but not the inside since the caliper piston presses directly on the inside pad.

If your driving style is such that ESC kicks in, don't expect long brake life.
 
When everything is replaced with new drive it for a week pull tire off and inspect, you should be able to tell if pads are contacting rotor, if rotor looks as if it is not getting swept with brake pads you will know ,then replace caliper!
Just to be clear when I check it in about a week I’ll want to ensure that the pad is contacting the rotor and leaving a lapped surface. However, how do I ensure the brake pads aren’t hanging up due to a sticking piston and prematurely wearing the pads? Do I just try to rotate the rotor to ensure it spins freely? If it doesn’t spin freely does that mean the piston is sticking and keeping pads clamped onto the rotor?
 
Just to be clear when I check it in about a week I’ll want to ensure that the pad is contacting the rotor and leaving a lapped surface. However, how do I ensure the brake pads aren’t hanging up due to a sticking piston and prematurely wearing the pads? Do I just try to rotate the rotor to ensure it spins freely? If it doesn’t spin freely does that mean the piston is sticking and keeping pads clamped onto the rotor?
When I reloaded pads on my Wife's subaru rear rotors at 89K miles, one inner pad was chewed off. The pad backing plate ears were somwhat rusted and likely too large and jammed the pad against the rotor. Those were budget duralast pads. The new ones did not fit well either, I ended up filing the ears down so they would easily slide on the stainless shims on the caliper. And yes, I wire brushed the rust off the notch behind the shims on the caliper- which can cause the pads to get jammed, otherwise.

Salty roads and harsh Winters up here in New Hampshire.

brakes.jpg

caliper.jpg
 
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