Preferred Diesel Additive?

Not since ULSD was introduced, modern diesels in light cars and trucks still struggle with lack of lubricity--particularly Bosch HPFP like the one in your Powerstroke. Also, there was a case study performed in Australia a few years back that showed TC-W3 did nothing for lubricity.

Stanadyne, Diesel Kleen, and Howe's work pretty well to increase lubricity and prevent gelling.
I don't have a vehicle with a diesel engine, but when I read posts about the lack of lubricity in fuel does that mean that everyone on the road uses some sort of additive? If not then are there widespread failures of pumps?
 
I don't have a vehicle with a diesel engine, but when I read posts about the lack of lubricity in fuel does that mean that everyone on the road uses some sort of additive? If not then are there widespread failures of pumps?
It is difficult to say exactly. Certainly, the Bosch pumps seem to have a higher rate of failure in the US vs. abroad, where there are also many many more of them in service. European EN-590 testing specifies a 460 micron wear scar, ASTM US D-975 specifies 520 micron and is commonly tested to show 560 micron.
 
I think the issue is overblown. There were some early, well popularized failures from Ford that cause some FUD. I think most if not all major oil companies add a lubricant, it might be 1% bio or something else but it is in there best interest not being associated with pump failures.

I also think more of the issue is due to water. Ford has changed their fuel filter design to trap more water and have also put a different coating on the pump.

I usually add a additive, but I mostly use it to help with moisture issues. I am on the road a lot and often don't know the reputation of the stations I buy fuel from.

When draining the filter I rarely find water, but when I change it I sometimes find a good amount of dirt. This dirt might be adding to the failures as well but the new Ford filter design seems to be working well.
 
Fuel gelling is definitely not an issue here. I plan to take a bottle of Diesel 911 with me if I travel up north this winter.
Plan on filling up at or near your destination so you get properly winterized fuel for the conditions. Diesel 911 is for emergency degelling and, if you ever need to use it, it often requires double or triple the recommended amount.
 
Plan on filling up at or near your destination so you get properly winterized fuel for the conditions. Diesel 911 is for emergency degelling and, if you ever need to use it, it often requires double or triple the recommended amount.
I'm in Tampa and we get winterized diesel here, so I'm not sure it's much of a problem
 
I can't believe that Tampa would need winter diesel, but I guess since it seems to offer less power and MPG it makes good business sense:rolleyes:. I would agree that the issue of lubricity in ULSD is a bit overblown, but if you have an older vehicle then lubricity may be more of an issue. The Stanadyne rotary pump on my 7.3 IDI prefers a little extra lube as it is lubricated solely by the fuel passing through it. There seems to be no evidence that they will instantly fail without additives but if you're trying to max out the life of your pump then a small amount spent on preventative measures doesn't seem wasteful. A quality IP rebuild is between 750-950 so I don't mind spending a little extra to put off that parts bill. 1st gen Cummins 6bt also are fuel lubricated IPs but the 2nd gens went with the venerable Bosch P7100 which is primarily lubricated with engine oil and it does last longer, and cost a lot more to replace so you pay one way or the other. I prefer Stanadyne additive for off-the-shelf products or Optilube Summer formula if mail ordered.
 
Tampa does not need winterized diesel, agreed but you can still buy it here. There are lots of things available here that we don't need but can still buy.

I find it funny people question the availability of winterized Diesel here. Do you think that diesel vehicles here have some kind of geographical limitations built in?

Edit to add.

I still maintain that water is the bigger problem. I bet a large number of people with "gelled" diesel never drain the water separator.

Also if you are talking about no.2 with no.1 added then no we don't get that. Anyone with a common rail should probably not run that blend, at least on the light duty truck side.
 
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It is difficult to say exactly. Certainly, the Bosch pumps seem to have a higher rate of failure in the US vs. abroad, where there are also many many more of them in service. European EN-590 testing specifies a 460 micron wear scar, ASTM US D-975 specifies 520 micron and is commonly tested to show 560 micron.

And Bosch themselves have stated they would have liked a 400 micron wear scar... Biggest issue is the repeatability of the HFRR test imo... results can be 60 microns out and reproduceability is twice as bad...

The 3 cylinder pumps seem to have infinite life, but the 1 cylinder pumps are/were terrible.
 
And Bosch themselves have stated they would have liked a 400 micron wear scar... Biggest issue is the repeatability of the HFRR test imo... results can be 60 microns out and reproduceability is twice as bad...

The 3 cylinder pumps seem to have infinite life, but the 1 cylinder pumps are/were terrible.
The Touareg CATA 3.0 TDI (09-12) has the Bosch CP4.2

An upgrade to the CP3 is possible and what I will do if I ever experience catastrophic failure.

Would having a fuel sample analyzed be worth the time/money?
 
I have no idea if that works as you don't have a baseline. After they fail, the debris is too large for an oil analysis and easily visible with the naked eye. Also, if there's an electric pump in the tank, that also sends shiny flakes to the filter housing.
 
I find it funny people question the availability of winterized Diesel here. Do you think that diesel vehicles here have some kind of geographical limitations built in?

I only question it in the context of average winter low temperatures in relation to the average cloud point of no.2 diesel. I don't live in Tampa or anywhere else in Florida, but a quick look at average winter temperatures for the last 30 years makes it seem irrational to offer no.1 diesel since the cloud point of no.2, ~20 degrees F, is well below the average low temps year round. Why would you ask if someone thinks diesel vehicles have a geographical limitation built in?
 
I only question it in the context of average winter low temperatures in relation to the average cloud point of no.2 diesel. I don't live in Tampa or anywhere else in Florida, but a quick look at average winter temperatures for the last 30 years makes it seem irrational to offer no.1 diesel since the cloud point of no.2, ~20 degrees F, is well below the average low temps year round. Why would you ask if someone thinks diesel vehicles have a geographical limitation built in?
Not no1 diesel but no2 additized for winter. I will also agree that it is probably offered for a shorter time and treated to a higher temperature. Probably I should call it treated diesel and not winter diesel as I can see the difference.
 
The Touareg CATA 3.0 TDI (09-12) has the Bosch CP4.2

An upgrade to the CP3 is possible and what I will do if I ever experience catastrophic failure.

Would having a fuel sample analyzed be worth the time/money?

It is significantly cheaper to get the CP3 conversion done pre-emptively than deal with the after effects and costs of a CP4 failure. A 2 micron fuel filter will add another layer of protection for your fuel system. The CP3 is also more efficient and should improve fuel economy.

 
I have a VW TDi with 417,000 miles and counting. I've used a variety of different additives and can't honestly tell a lick of difference between any of them. Stanadyne Performance and Schaeffers Diesel Treat 2000 will prevent gelling in stoopid cold February mornings here in lovely South Dakota. I know they prevent gelling because I forgot to add one time and freaking gelled up on the way to work. Fun times. I just bought a gallon of Amsoil ADB All-in-One diesel formula. That'll treat 14 tanks of fuel. With the ancient rotary pump designed to run on good old #2 lubricity is a concern. I'm on my 3rd set of injectors too. OEM's were absolutely shot at ~300,000 miles. Aftermarket garbage (Titan) were crap. Bosio DLC 1019 are awesome.

Did you know you can buy Stanadyne Performance formula in a case of 8oz bottles? You know how convenient they are?! I've re-filled mine a dozen times. I fill em a little full thus the 14 bottles filled/gallon rather than the 16 that math says I should get.
 
The absolute best diesel additive comes from Amalgamated Inc because they use 2EHN as a cetane improver and you can buy in volume (ie. 6 pack 1-quart bottles, 1-quart treats 125 gallons of fuel) which will save you money over anything found on the retail shelf at any auto parts store.
 
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make sure you understand what your fuel additive does to the fuel... Is it an emulsifier or separator? Many products contain alcohol which emulsifies the water in your fuel and then that impacts injector life. There is lots to read and watch on the WWW so do some homework and you will be better off. Volume of fuel pumped is also important, shopping at a busy place will certainly help with the fuel turning over and tends to be a sign that others don't have issues.

Just my $0.02
 
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