New Mazda CX7. 2.3L direct injection engine. vehicle used as a daily driver. Driven moderately in a Suburban setting. Thinking 7,500 mile OCI with a OEM oil filter. Will do an UOA when engine broken-in. PP or M1 in the recommended 5w30 wt? Thanks Ed
PP or M1 for Mazda turbo
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This has got Walmart SuperTech Full Synth written all over it - a grp III w/ a 7.5k add pack. BUT, if there's not much price diff, then go w/ the next cheapest (PP or M1).
Eddie-
You still haven't post your UOA RE: fuel dilution issues?
You still haven't post your UOA RE: fuel dilution issues?
Well its kind of hard to pass up the free case of Pennzoil Platinum
Your engine fuel dilutes (whether you know it or not). PP is a very good choice for this circumstance. IMO, M1 is no longer a good choice for any reason at all (well, OK, if you have more dollars than sense and need to spend a bunch of money by the end of the month in order to get your huge inheritance...).
I just used PP but not with the stock filter I usually use. I don't know if it was the slightly marginally bigger filter or if the filter(S2000 Made in Japan) was just more stout and had more resistance or if PP was a tad thicker then the usual 5w20 but it felt heavy. Now that I am on M1 with *stock filter*, I'm back to the free-revving style the Vtec V6 likes since it's a revver. IF you don't rely on revving, I would say PP since it is cheaper as well but if I still seemed to get more quicker revs with M1 albeit it wasn't an apples to apples test since the filters were different. To tell you the truth, I would have to use both back to back with the same filter to really tell you which is better (and I might end up doing just that). For right now, M1 is the best choice for me. (and I am using regular M! not the Super Syn or other variant)
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If you are getting fuel in the engine oil you might look at the Super-Secret RS4 project. They have worked out a solution and you can buy the oil.
I only have ~1,400 miles on this engine so no UOAs. I am aware of possible fuel dilution issues at WOT but, not when used as a daily modestly driven vehicle 95% of time. PP & M1 same price at my WM. Will do first oil change (dealer free) with MC Blend and the next oil change at ~ 6K to PP or M1. Both good oils, I know and will do UOAs on each as miles builds. Just wanted to start with the most probable best for this engine. I am hearing PP regardless of price? yes or no? Thanks so much for the replies. Ed
In the 5w30 grade, I'd use PP over M1. Not that either are ideal but warranty holds you to it.
I have a Mazdaspeed 3 and the oil should be getting changed next week followed by a UOA. It will be about 10,000 miles and I'm planning to use PP this time instead of M1.
Look forward to your UOA blackdiamond.
Interesting observation. PP in the 5w30 wt. carries the ACEA A3B4 spec. which is for "High Performance Direct Injection Gas Engines" Mobil 1 or M1 Ep or M1 T&S in 5w30 do not meet that spec. Important for the Mazda DI engine? I don't really know and will not guess until we get some UOAs on the board. I have not seen the A/F plots at steady state power levels to say that the DI engine dilutes oil. I have only seen WOT plots. To say the Mazda DI engine is a fuel diluter is nonsense. I need some data to back up that statement. Ed
TURBO right ? If yes:
First, don't just believe what you see here or anywhere...you'll need to do homework.
Since it's under warranty STUDY the Mazda manual and dig into Mazda specific forums to get owner experience & recommendations.
Once you study VW/Audi turbo / sluge experience you may have a good appreciation for the challenges the oil faces. Nissian 350Z forums I have found helpful also.
I would really cut back on the OCI miles (say 3-5K) until you get a handle on this.
Some Off the Cuff comments:
The Only M1 I like is the '0W40 European Formula', same price as all the other M1 grades at WM ($6). I do know if you can use this weight.
Consider VW/Audi 503.01 spec'd oil, which may relate to RS4, TT, and other. Valvoline synth may be worth a look. Castrol SXL Professional _W30 (yikes $9/qt) seems to popup and I found a source in US. Green Castrol (German) on the way out I hear. If you end up with something PAO you can run longer interval, GrpIII shorter (How do you know PAO vs GrpIII, What is shorter/longer..well thats part if yor study.)
I'm looking at heavier weight such as 0W40 and I look for ACEA A3 rating (HTST 150C >3.5) but I don't know if this applies to _W30.
PP over M1. In _W30 almost certainly PP from what I read (not expert on _W30). At _W40 it's M1*, then at 15W50 it's PP generally. Just because you have one good oil in a line it may have little to do with anything else in the line.
*PP "European Formula 5W40" shows up in all the same approved lists but can't find in US.
Like I said cut back the interval and do homework.
First, don't just believe what you see here or anywhere...you'll need to do homework.
Since it's under warranty STUDY the Mazda manual and dig into Mazda specific forums to get owner experience & recommendations.
Once you study VW/Audi turbo / sluge experience you may have a good appreciation for the challenges the oil faces. Nissian 350Z forums I have found helpful also.
I would really cut back on the OCI miles (say 3-5K) until you get a handle on this.
Some Off the Cuff comments:
The Only M1 I like is the '0W40 European Formula', same price as all the other M1 grades at WM ($6). I do know if you can use this weight.
Consider VW/Audi 503.01 spec'd oil, which may relate to RS4, TT, and other. Valvoline synth may be worth a look. Castrol SXL Professional _W30 (yikes $9/qt) seems to popup and I found a source in US. Green Castrol (German) on the way out I hear. If you end up with something PAO you can run longer interval, GrpIII shorter (How do you know PAO vs GrpIII, What is shorter/longer..well thats part if yor study.)
I'm looking at heavier weight such as 0W40 and I look for ACEA A3 rating (HTST 150C >3.5) but I don't know if this applies to _W30.
PP over M1. In _W30 almost certainly PP from what I read (not expert on _W30). At _W40 it's M1*, then at 15W50 it's PP generally. Just because you have one good oil in a line it may have little to do with anything else in the line.
*PP "European Formula 5W40" shows up in all the same approved lists but can't find in US.
Like I said cut back the interval and do homework.
Thanks for your comments glenncof. Yes the CX7 is a turbo engine and yes I have read the manual several times and have done some research on fuel dilution. That is the reason I commented on needing UOAs to get some definitive data and not just guesses. M1 in 5w & 10w30 has done an outstanding job for me in the past i.e. Saab 1986 turbo was sold with 176,000 miles running great and also a Volvo sold with 127,000 miles. The 40 weights you mentioned are not a recomended viscosity weight for my vehicle so that is a moot point. The interval I picked are well within the manufactures spec for dino oil so I see no reason to shorten to less that 6-7500 miles using a good synthetic oil until a UOA suggest different. yes, doing the homework is good for ALL of us. Thanks again. Ed
What is the recommended OCI for the CX-7? As far as I know, the turbo engines are automatically on the "severe" schedule which means 5,000 miles max. I know this is true for the Speed 3 that I have. Mazda's standard is 7,500 miles for normal driving and 5,000 miles for severe use.
CX 7 OC recommendations for dino oil are 5,000 and 7,500. My manual does not state or indicate the turbo is to use the severe OCI automatically. The manual states to use the severe if the vehicle is driven under any of the severe conditions listed and, a turbo engine is not among the list. Anyway blackdiamond, the UOAs will point the way without guessing, I hope. Ed
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