Powerstop Vs Nuegon brembo calipers?

edyvw said:
No, I was thinking bcs. heat transfer from pads onto pistons and then fluid.
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Yes, this becomes a big issue in endurance racing or extended lapping situations. The longest I've ever lapped straight was 40 minutes. Most sessions are 20-30 minutes. Not long enough for that heat to transfer.

I've never seen someone with high temp brake fluid boil brakes at the track. I've seen far too many boil Dot 3 and dot4. At least once a season someone totals a car because of boiled fluid. This year it was Blackhawk Farms where a guy boiled his brakes at the end of the straightaway going about 110. Straight up went off track at the end and went into the trees. He was OK for the most part
 
Bmsluite said:
Yes, this becomes a big issue in endurance racing or extended lapping situations. The longest I've ever lapped straight was 40 minutes. Most sessions are 20-30 minutes. Not long enough for that heat to transfer.

I've never seen someone with high temp brake fluid boil brakes at the track. I've seen far too many boil Dot 3 and dot4. At least once a season someone totals a car because of boiled fluid. This year it was Blackhawk Farms where a guy boiled his brakes at the end of the straightaway going about 110. Straight up went off track at the end and went into the trees. He was OK for the most part
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The reason I mentioned is transfer to rubber parts that you have an issue with, not boiling per se. For example, on BMW 135, the front Brembo calipers had issues with ceramic pistons cracking on the track. The solution was Titanium shims or steel pistons.
Also, your rear calipers are working hard unless you have absolutely all nannies coded out. On my BMW I rear pads have 1/3 of a lifetime of the front pads on the track. It is bcs. of ediff function. And rotor will be glowing bcs. heat.
This is how my rear rotor looked after 170mls of track time:
IMG_0582.jpg


I would try shims or some DIY cooling solution that reroutes air to calipers.
 
edyvw said:
The reason I mentioned is transfer to rubber parts that you have an issue with, not boiling per se. For example, on BMW 135, the front Brembo calipers had issues with ceramic pistons cracking on the track. The solution was Titanium shims or steel pistons.
Also, your rear calipers are working hard unless you have absolutely all nannies coded out. On my BMW I rear pads have 1/3 of a lifetime of the front pads on the track. It is bcs. of ediff function. And rotor will be glowing bcs. heat.
This is how my rear rotor looked after 170mls of track time:
View attachment 131463

I would try shims or some DIY cooling solution that reroutes air to calipers.
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I have no issues cooling the rear brakes. I have air deflectors I made that force air into the rotor inlet vanes. Cooling is not the issue. Leaking is the issue.


Also, I do not have traction control or stability control. I am the traction control. I have ABS but that is it. Mechanical 100% locking 1.5 way differential. No electronics. Hydraulic steering rack with the variable speed disabled. This machine is pure. Not even a turbo. Just a 3.5 liter screaming to 7500 rpm. Just leaks out the rear calipers lol
 
edyvw said:
If it leaks again, maybe some modification installing calipers from another vehicle?
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My one friend has a way of putting Porsche rears on. I guess that will be the next step. The fronts I stole of a Porsche Cayenne Turbo S and adapted them to this tiny little 350Z lol
 

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Bmsluite said:
My one friend has a way of putting Porsche rears on. I guess that will be the next step. The fronts I stole of a Porsche Cayenne Turbo S and adapted them to this tiny little 350Z lol
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Lol. I was thinking of Porsche calipers. My friend has complete set from Cayenne on X5.
Anyway, if I was going I would go something that has abundance of race and track pads available at decent price.

If that is known issue, I would just go with something from another car.
 
The Z's calipers as far as I've heard, were quite weak and had a lot of flex. It happens to the X's calipers too, after a while of tracking the calipers are just too shot, expanded and retracted too much from the heat and you end up having to source a non-tracked version. If you've already done brake ducts, and the heat is still getting to the brakes then the next step is to upgrade calipers away from OEM and up the rotor size if the fronts are larger than OEM.
 
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Bmsluite said:
I use Bosch 5.1 fluid. I used to use Endless but its so thin that the leaks begin almost immediately. Or that stuff eats bleeder screw? I do not know but I stopped using it.
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Your caliper bleeder leaks and you blame the BF? Check all the bleeders
and their cone seats (or again). That's the reason, definitely not the fluid.
.
 
930.engineering said:
Your caliper bleeder leaks and you blame the BF? Check all the bleeders
and their cone seats (or again). That's the reason, definitely not the fluid.
.
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Yes I am quite familiar with fixing caliper seats and the bleeder screws. For whatever reason my normal fixes for that are not working at all.

What method do you use to repair the bleeder seat of aluminum calipers?
 
Pew said:
The Z's calipers as far as I've heard, were quite weak and had a lot of flex. It happens to the X's calipers too, after a while of tracking the calipers are just too shot, expanded and retracted too much from the heat and you end up having to source a non-tracked version. If you've already done brake ducts, and the heat is still getting to the brakes then the next step is to upgrade calipers away from OEM and up the rotor size if the fronts are larger than OEM.
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Yes, the calipers were not great. This is why I went to the monoblock 18Z caliper sin the front. I would cook the OEM brembos and burn through pads to the point where it was eating through my track budget.

One of my good friends has the rear calipers form a Porsche cayenne turbo s fitting to his rear on his Z. He has the only bracket in existence to adapt them. He said he was getting a said made for me but it's been a couple months. I hate to press my friend for something he is giving to me for free though.
 
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Could always swap out the rear Brembo Caliper for the newer year Akebonos from a 370.

40mm Piston (Brembo) 41mm Piston Akebono
Rotor 12.677" OD Brembo, 13.772" OD Akebono
 
thescreensavers said:
Could always swap out the rear Brembo Caliper for the newer year Akebonos from a 370.

40mm Piston (Brembo) 41mm Piston Akebono
Rotor 12.677" OD Brembo, 13.772" OD Akebono
Click to expand...
Considered that. Piston size is only 1mm larger. That sort of piston diameter difference can be made up for with a slightly higher Mu pad. The rear rotor on the akebono adds about 6 pounds of unsprung, rotational mass which is not something I want to do. That rotor has thinner cooling vanes in it than the OEM brembo on the 350Z. There's also no way to get a blank akebono with pillar vanes in it whereas rhe brembo has PVC tech vanes.

Lita of downsides but.... You are right, it is an option. It is also one I may end up having to do since they at least won't leak.

Any brakes are better than leaky brakes
 
Bmsluite said:
Considered that. Piston size is only 1mm larger. That sort of piston diameter difference can be made up for with a slightly higher Mu pad. The rear rotor on the akebono adds about 6 pounds of unsprung, rotational mass which is not something I want to do. That rotor has thinner cooling vanes in it than the OEM brembo on the 350Z. There's also no way to get a blank akebono with pillar vanes in it whereas rhe brembo has PVC tech vanes.

Lita of downsides but.... You are right, it is an option. It is also one I may end up having to do since they at least won't leak.

Any brakes are better than leaky brakes
Click to expand...

This solves all your qualms :) If you want to spend it :D

 
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