Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx

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Originally Posted by DriveHard
Thank you for being concerned with me and my fellow motorist' safety...

I would not tow my boat and family to the lake if I doubted anything regarding our safety.
Isn't it ridiculous how your post about your observations, ones that no one else can physically see, have gotten so twisted around ?
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Thanks DriveHard. We learn through sharing experiences with each other. You handled the BITOG crowd quite well. Kudos.


Thank you, happy to share!
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by DriveHard
Thank you for being concerned with me and my fellow motorist' safety...

I would not tow my boat and family to the lake if I doubted anything regarding our safety.
Isn't it ridiculous how your post about your observations, ones that no one else can physically see, have gotten so twisted around ?


Yeah, sometimes the folks here make me not want to participate. Its the good ones that keep me coming back...
 
I don't see 75% versus 99% as an excessive difference, especially with the pins free and the pistons on one side. I don't see anything wrong with your breakin procedure, either.

I'm not a fan of slotted rotors for non racing applications, but they can work OK. Likewise Duralast Gold, while not my first choice now, I used them before and they worked fine.
 
Duralast Gold and C-Max work very well in Land Cruiser application. Also, Centric Fleet Performance line of pads is great, scorched - no need for bed-in nonsense.

OP, thank you for sharing.
 
Originally Posted by Y_K
Duralast Gold and C-Max work very well in Land Cruiser application. Also, Centric Fleet Performance line of pads is great, scorched - no need for bed-in nonsense.


Scorching only covers one part of the pad break-in or bedding equation. There is also contact area and particle embedding, both of which increase friction.
 
The OEx pads seem like another weird design from Wagner - and I think with the Powerstop rotors being drilled and slotted exacerbated the brake life issue although other things are at play. Did you lube up the slide pins on the caliper after cleaning them with a silicone-based or rubber-safe brake lube?

I'm not a fan of the parts store brand of friction - they all seem to come from the same manufacturer(Roulunds China/India, a part of MAT) but what you did to break them in is better than nothing, scorching only means that the surface of the friction "puck" was heat treated to help improve out of box feel but the pads still need to imprint themselves to the rotors and in the case of NAO "ceramic" pads, transfer a film of friction material.
 
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