How does your Prius feel? Pull a little better? Placebo effect for the win!
post your latest transmission lubricant change.
- Thread starter ledslinger
- Start date
I don’t know what’s involved with this change, but $75 sounds like a great price!
I haven't driven it but don't expect to notice any difference.
Yes - my Ford dealer just quoted me more than twice that for a spill and fill on the 2017 C-Max Energi. That being said the Ford dealer was including the fluid. That vehicle should hit 80k by August so I have a financial decision to make. Both shops have been good to me. What a dilemna.
My shop that I have been using for years used to be $100. Now they are up to $150 in the past year plus. Might have to find a new place or god forbid, go back to the dealer which isn't much more
Local Ford dealer went from $200 for trans flush to $400 in 2 years.
Yeah, my Subaru dealer was $180 for a brake fluid flush then the next year it was over $240.
When I tried to have a drain and fill done on our bought new 2017 Explorer at 10,000 miles to get the initial debris out, three or four of the nearby Ford dealers refused to do it. All of them would only do a BG flush for $300 at that time, 8 years ago. Luckily for me there is no pan to drop on the 6F35 and I was able to do cold drains and fills myself, quick & easy in my driveway. I heard the BG flushes are over $400 now. As long as this 71 year old can continue to crawl under the Explorer I'll continue to do my own cold drain and fills.
Do the same on the 6F35 in my wife's Fusion. Putting a PPE pan on my F150 (as well as an external spin on filter & dipstick kit) so I can do the same with it.
2012 Scion xB, 85k miles, second drain and refill with the Idemitsu WS equivalent. The first was at 80k when I acquired the vehicle.
The 6F35 holds a total of 9 quarts. I get 4.5 quarts out on a cold drain. 50% fresh fluid is a decent amount for a drain and fill every ~20-25,000 miles, especially with the Ford Mercon LV. At least it's very reasonable through Rock Auto, about ~$26/5 quart jug.
I did 2 D&F's so far on my sons 2010 Forte with Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle and my Harbor Freight fluid extractor. I'll do a 3rd in a couple days before he takes to VA. Power steering got the same but with red bottle Maxlife.
I plan to do my daughter-in-laws '21 Tucson also. I called 2 local dealers and the factory Hyundai fluid is $28/quart
. Only reason I'm planning that is for dealer receipts and that she has 6 years and 74k left on warranty. I also don't want any different shift characteristics for her as she moves to VA in 2 weeks.
Valvoline EP is probably as good or better but don't want any odd things when I'm not around to check/maintain.
I plan to do my daughter-in-laws '21 Tucson also. I called 2 local dealers and the factory Hyundai fluid is $28/quart
. Only reason I'm planning that is for dealer receipts and that she has 6 years and 74k left on warranty. I also don't want any different shift characteristics for her as she moves to VA in 2 weeks.Valvoline EP is probably as good or better but don't want any odd things when I'm not around to check/maintain.
2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T 7 speed dual clutch tuner car, that gets thrashed, but taken care of.
I wanted to get some HPL GL4/GL5 trans oil for my front diff. So I decided to change out everything to HPL. HPL transmission change, GL4 spec to HPL manual oil that is GL4/GL5. Front diff is in same cavity as gearbox. HPL GL5 transfer case and rear diff oil changed out too.
Replacing all Redline drive train oil to HPL after 28,000 miles. Since all this oil has been changed before about 4 times in 65,000 miles to not allow wear stress from break-in debris. Everything is broken in now, all were clean on dump. Hyundai new rear diffs have blackish oil at 8,000 miles if rough serviced. Was still getting debris at 30,000 miles. That process has stopped, next change in 40,000 miles.
I wanted to get some HPL GL4/GL5 trans oil for my front diff. So I decided to change out everything to HPL. HPL transmission change, GL4 spec to HPL manual oil that is GL4/GL5. Front diff is in same cavity as gearbox. HPL GL5 transfer case and rear diff oil changed out too.
Replacing all Redline drive train oil to HPL after 28,000 miles. Since all this oil has been changed before about 4 times in 65,000 miles to not allow wear stress from break-in debris. Everything is broken in now, all were clean on dump. Hyundai new rear diffs have blackish oil at 8,000 miles if rough serviced. Was still getting debris at 30,000 miles. That process has stopped, next change in 40,000 miles.2017 Honda CR-V 1.5T / CVT trans. 54,500 miles, 25,000 miles on fluid.
Out: Honda HCF-2
In: 4.5 qts Honda HCF-2
Out: Honda HCF-2
In: 4.5 qts Honda HCF-2
Complete mechanical flush and fill with Dexron VI full synthetic [from Dexron III conventional] on 85,000 mile Saturn ION. The last time was at about 50,000 miles back in 2009-2010. Plus professional fuel system blast with BG. Close to $500.
20th Anniversary pre-emptive maintenance mission. Long trip to Salt Lake planned. Laying the foundation for another 10 years of service.
No seeming difference in mileage, performance, etc. switching to full synthetic oil [Pennzoil Platinum], and trans fluid. 32 mpg up with AC, 75-80 mph speed limits and climbing to 6000 ft elevations. 85 grade gas in UT. 87 in AZ. 35 mpg back, no AC, same speeds and scenic route 50-65 on the way back.
And as always: never even close to low ball EPA #s [now 21 & 29 from 22 and 32 with automatic]
However, rethinking my over-maintenance dollar outlay...
Has it been worth it over a 20 year period? All my records from mile 21 have been duly noted in my Car Fax file. Not sure, but I may be dialing it back now that I looked at all of it as a whole.
20th Anniversary pre-emptive maintenance mission. Long trip to Salt Lake planned. Laying the foundation for another 10 years of service.
No seeming difference in mileage, performance, etc. switching to full synthetic oil [Pennzoil Platinum], and trans fluid. 32 mpg up with AC, 75-80 mph speed limits and climbing to 6000 ft elevations. 85 grade gas in UT. 87 in AZ. 35 mpg back, no AC, same speeds and scenic route 50-65 on the way back.
And as always: never even close to low ball EPA #s [now 21 & 29 from 22 and 32 with automatic]
However, rethinking my over-maintenance dollar outlay...
Has it been worth it over a 20 year period? All my records from mile 21 have been duly noted in my Car Fax file. Not sure, but I may be dialing it back now that I looked at all of it as a whole.
2007 Mazda 3 2.0 170k miles
Out:Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Axle seal had sprung a leak on the former fill of Castrol Import ATF, so thought I'd try Maxlife as a hail Mary to stop the leak. Lo and behold the leak stopped in short order and has remained dry for the last 37k miles.
In:Valvoline Import ATF, that I had bought for a previously owned car but thought I'd give it a try on the Mazda. They claim it has seal conditioners so time will tell.
Out:Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Axle seal had sprung a leak on the former fill of Castrol Import ATF, so thought I'd try Maxlife as a hail Mary to stop the leak. Lo and behold the leak stopped in short order and has remained dry for the last 37k miles.
In:Valvoline Import ATF, that I had bought for a previously owned car but thought I'd give it a try on the Mazda. They claim it has seal conditioners so time will tell.
3rd transmission (Import Multi Vehicle) and power steering (Maxlife) D&F's done on sons Forte.I did 2 D&F's so far on my sons 2010 Forte with Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle and my Harbor Freight fluid extractor. I'll do a 3rd in a couple days before he takes to VA. Power steering got the same but with red bottle Maxlife.
I plan to do my daughter-in-laws '21 Tucson also. I called 2 local dealers and the factory Hyundai fluid is $28/quart
Valvoline EP is probably as good or better but don't want any odd things when I'm not around to check/maintain.
Daughter-in-laws '21 Tucson, 26k on vehicle. 1x transmission drain and fill with Hyundai ATF SP4-M1, 4.25 quarts. Front transfer case and rear differential done. Mobil Delvac 1 without LS additive. Lots of junk on tranny magnet. Transfer case and differential were not to bad. I need to find out how to better refill the transmission. This was EXCRUCIATINGLY, PAINFULLY SLOW. Seriously can only trickle in 1-2 ounces at a time or the fill port overflows. No dipstick just a cap that goes to valve body and does not go straight through, I couldn't vacuum it out. All the videos I saw showed the "check level plug" as where to fill it to like differentials. Hers is different and lower with a cooler on front, so 1.25qts came out from the check port. 3 more quarts from regular drain plug. Dealer said I would need about 4-4.5 quarts for a D&F. There was even some globs of the paste/greasy in bottom of my drain pan and plug never went in there? Maybe it scraped off some on threads when removing it?
You can use the level check plug to fill these, or alternatively use the fill plug but with the level check plug removed to allow the air out of the transmission while you’re filling it from up top.
Once the fluid starts trickling out the level check plug, then start the engine, run it through PRND a few times, leave the engine running and in Park, then keep filling until it starts to trickle out the level check plug again.
Then let it run in Park until it’s at the right temp, fluid should be slowly trickling out the level check plug, reinstall the level check plug and fill plug and you’re done.
So with motor running/trans spinning in park it will drop down by 1.25qts on the level to be at or below that check plug?
I actually thought about that for next time. Fill the 3 quarts through the check plug and then only suffer through 1.25 qts through the top.
If doing it as you describe works, I can just use my quart bottle pump and do all of it through the check plug.
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