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4 hen's teeth, impossible to find Lucas L833 NADA signal lamps for my old Land Rover. Only used in the US (and maybe ANZ) for two or three years before LR left the US market for a while. It's the little things folks, but only original is original!

Also a 1975 Blaupunkt Frankfurt am/fm cassette player for my BMW 2002...see above.
 
2 duralast ignition coils from AutoZone
A duralast coil boot kit from AutoZone
7 AcDelco spark plugs from AutoZone
7 quarts of STP 5w30 oil and an AcDelco PF61E filter from AutoZone
All for a 2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer
 
4 rolls of Scott blue shop towels and a 6pk of Little Trees for free at AAP (perks bucks). These goodies will reside in F350 hy-rail at work.

2qt RedLine 75w85 for the upcoming rear diff service on my Stinger GT2.

NOCO Genius 5 to replace my ancient Sears-branded battery charger from the mid 80s.

EDIT: forgot to list some small plastic underbody pieces that were damaged from driving thru last weekends ice storm here in NC. Ordered Genuine VW replacements from FCP last night for $39 shipped!
 
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FelPro intake gasket set for a 1995 Chevrolet S10 V6 from AutoZone
Duralast distributor cap and rotor button for the S10 from AutoZone
Duralast thermostat for the S10 from AutoZone
 
Back brake hardware for my CR-V. I cleaned and lubed the front brakes and flushed the brake fluid using Bosch ES16, last fall. But did not get a chance to clean and lube the back brakes and parking brakes. The place I am taking it to for inspection next month specializes in brake work and exhaust work. So I figured while they have it apart for the inspection I might as well pay them a little extra to clean and Lube everything and use the new hardware that I supply for brake shoe clip springs and slide pin boots if needed.

If I did that job myself I would take the time to clean the brake shoe clip springs and lube and reuse them, like I did for the front. But the cost of there time to clean those parts well is greater than the cost of new parts.
 
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Raybestos Element3 pads for a 2013 Legacy. I might be ordering calipers and rotors, TBD when I pull it apart. This is a no rush job, I'm waiting for a warmer day. AMZN had the best price at the time, sorry Rock Auto.
 
Duralast distributor cap, rotor button, plug wires and fuel filter from AutoZone for a 1997 Chevrolet Silverado
AcDelco spark plugs from AutoZone for that Silverado
STP air filter from AutoZone for that Silverado
 
Endurance branded reman steering box from AutoZone for a 1997 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Duralast upper control arms for a 2007 Hyundai Elantra

Waiting on a Duralast crank sensor from AutoZone for a 1998 Dodge Ram B2500 van
 
Oil pressure sensor switch for my moms 1999 Buick LeSabre 3.8. It was leaking like crazy when I took her to the store and the oil pressure light came on. I lost about 2 1/2 quarts of oil before I notices the leak. First the oil light came on and I checked the oil and it was full. I drove the car about 5 miles and it started to leak really bad. I didn't install the sensor but it's fixed now. The local mechanic repaired it for her right away. It was lucky that I was driving the car when it happened. Had she been driving it she probably wouldn't notice the difference.
 
I bought a set of Vredestein Quatrac Pro tires from Tire Rack for my '13 Sienna. Never used this brand before; can't wait to get them mounted and see how they are. I also bought a new rear wiper arm for the Escalade (Genuine GM part from Rockauto). The arm has a metal bushing that goes over the motor shaft, and the bushing corroded and basically rust-jacked and broke the plastic arm.
 
Duralast outer tie rods from AutoZone for a 2004 Buick Rendezvous
Duralast wheel hub from AutoZone for a 2004 Buick Rendezvous
 
I just bought a used instrument cluster for my '92 Accord off Ebay. Cost $26.59 including shipping and sales tax. I was having 2 minor problems with my cluster: there's an indicator light that tells you if you have a brake light bulb burned out, and it was staying lit all the time, even though all of my brake lights were working fine. I did a bunch of troubleshooting and determined the problem was in the main circuit board of the cluster. The other problem I had was the tach was inaccurate and would sometimes read about 500 rpm too low. Sometimes when idling, it would drop to 0 rpm.

When I received the new (used) cluster, I removed the main circuit board and tach gauge and swapped them over to my original cluster. I also noticed that I had some burned out light bulbs, so I swapped some bulbs from the new cluster too. I reinstalled the cluster and tested all of the gauges and indicator lights, and everything works. Both of the problems I was previously having are now gone. I just need to finish putting the dash back together, and I'll be done.
Do you know what size bulbs the cluster needs? I used t5 74 from a car place and they are really dim even turned all the way up
 
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