Sure did
Post your latest oil change
- Thread starter Superbuick96
- Start date
Thanks mate, its no glamour but it treats me wellNice rig buddy
Double gasket, or maybe Fram used the wrong gasket? Flat gasket or P-style base gasket?
Can't remember what style of gasket it was unfortunately, but not a double gasket situation.
I would say wrong seal or a Friday-afternoon seal.
Glamour is for panty waists.Thanks mate, its no glamour but it treats me well
That thing is
The GX550 requires (according to Lexus) Full synthetic 0w20 ILSAC GF6A w 5-7k OCI. Did 0w20 a few times and decided to go 5w30. I bought jugs of the GTX when they were on sale. But I’m not loyal to any one brand. I know GTX is Castrol’s entry level syn, but it meets / exceeds GF6A and I been doing 5k ish OCI.
Thanks for letting me know this may cause the engine to grenade, Tired.
2003 Matrix: FIL's car
Out: Syn blend 5w30 from Quicklube/ Pronto filter
In: Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30/ Premium Guard filter
229,232 miles. First PG I've used. I had a leftover can of BG EPR and this car appears to have a pretty varnished valvetrain, so it seemed like a good use for it. Ran for about 25 minutes at 1500rpm. Oil didn't look nasty like I thought it might. Will do valve cover gasket on this car before delivery to Iowa, so we'll see how she looks then
Out: Syn blend 5w30 from Quicklube/ Pronto filter
In: Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30/ Premium Guard filter
229,232 miles. First PG I've used. I had a leftover can of BG EPR and this car appears to have a pretty varnished valvetrain, so it seemed like a good use for it. Ran for about 25 minutes at 1500rpm. Oil didn't look nasty like I thought it might. Will do valve cover gasket on this car before delivery to Iowa, so we'll see how she looks then
I didn't say that. I think the move to 5W-30 is smart. It was a joke about the engine recall. As in, since the engine has a high risk of failure, it doesn't matter what oil you use.
Maybe you've been living under a rock and haven't heard: https://lexusenthusiast.com/forums/...a-fts-expanded-recall-for-lx-and-gx-550.7468/
But, nice work trying to misinterpret what I was saying so you can be offended.
I like the viscosity change. I am doing the same in the same engine in our Rogue. It seems like it's easy on oil though.
You can fit a larger filter on it by the way. The OEM one is like a thimble. I buy the one for the GT-R. It's a little bigger. Still feels like a lawnmower filter, but at least it's a little bigger. Part number 84356 for the Carquest Premium.
We got a letter in the mail from Lexus about recalls, TSBs, updates, etc. We are already scheduled to drop off the vehicle on March 11 at the dealer. Thanks thoughI didn't say that. I think the move to 5W-30 is smart. It was a joke about the engine recall. As in, since the engine has a high risk of failure, it doesn't matter what oil you use.
Maybe you've been living under a rock and haven't heard: https://lexusenthusiast.com/forums/...a-fts-expanded-recall-for-lx-and-gx-550.7468/
But, nice work trying to misinterpret what I was saying so you can be offended.
CVT is definitely the weak point in the vehicle, but if you service them, they will usually last.Good to know, thanks!
And yes, so far this car seems to be easy on oil as well. Been very pleased with the car as a whole, honestly. Getting another CVT fluid change in 5,000 miles
Here is my thread on CVT fluid options and here is another thread on CVT maintenance. If you can change the oil, you can do the CVT service yourself. I also posted videos for how to change the fluid I used in the transmission fluid change thread here and here. After the first one there are some helpful posts too. You can buy the dipstick on Amazon cheap. It's really not a bad service, and people charge a lot for it.
I dropped the pan and cleaned the magnets and changed the filter too. That was harder. But you can do a fluid drain and fill very easily. If you use the Castrol Transmax fluid it's a really cheap option too, and the Amsoil CVT fluid is really good too if you like their stuff.
First oil change on my parents 2023 explorer with the 2.3 liter Ecoboost that they bought late last year from a local dealership.
Out. Presume that it was motorcraft 5w30 synblend. Removed a Mc910s filter
Installed a Bosch Premium 3330 and filled with Rotella gas truck 5w30 full syn
Out. Presume that it was motorcraft 5w30 synblend. Removed a Mc910s filter
Installed a Bosch Premium 3330 and filled with Rotella gas truck 5w30 full syn
2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L with 181,000 miles.
DIY oil change using ramps.
Out: Super Tech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30, Pentius PLXL7317 filter: 5,140 miles on this oil. Oil was medium brown color.
In: Super Tech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30, Pentius PLXL7317 filter.
Some other notes on the Van:
Hoping to keep this van another 130k miles to 310k+ miles.
Doing frequent DIY ATF drain and fills to help extend the life of the automatic transmission.
This van has a very tight ATF drain plug, if torqued to factory settings so I use a special 18 inch breaker bar + mallet to hit the handle of the breaker bar to break open the drain plug.
One sliding door has gone to manual (no power mode) due to a broken cable and possible door motor issue.
Honda Dealer wants $1300 to fix it. Decided to skip that repair and keep it as a manual door.
My local mechanic doesn't want to touch the sliding door issue.
Also, delayed getting the timing belt replaced at 105,000 miles. I did extensive internet searches and it seems to be safe to do it at 125k miles on the timing belt. Will get it replaced in about 5,000 miles from now @ 125k miles on the belt.
Then new timing belt will be good for an additional 125k miles, which will get me to 310k miles on the van, so likely won't have to do another timing belt replacement. Dealer want's $1900 to replace the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and oil seals nearby. I found a local independent mechanic that is willing to do it for $800 labor with me supplying the genuine Honda parts which I buy online at discounted prices from Majestic Honda (hondaautotiveparts.com).
Overall this van has been extremely reliable from 99k miles to 181k miles, very few repairs at all. I've been lucky.
Van has leather seats, Sunroof, heated seats, Navigation screen, DVD screen, 8th seat.
The body is in mint conditon, so someone unfamiliar with the Honda Odyssey generations might think its a much newer vehicle.
We still use it for our cross country trips without worry. We like to drive it to Florida twice a year (with the whole family - all 8 seats occupied in the van usually). It's been getting 27.5 MPG on the highway if driven with cruise control on at 65 MPG on that trip. VCM is still enabled. Engine mounts haven't failed yet on the two 2007 Honda Odyssey's EX-L's I have with 180k+ miles. It might just have been a 2005-2006 issue.
I bought it at 99k miles used for $4400 US in Sept 2019. It's was a good purchase that I would do again.
DIY oil change using ramps.
Out: Super Tech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30, Pentius PLXL7317 filter: 5,140 miles on this oil. Oil was medium brown color.
In: Super Tech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30, Pentius PLXL7317 filter.
Some other notes on the Van:
Hoping to keep this van another 130k miles to 310k+ miles.
Doing frequent DIY ATF drain and fills to help extend the life of the automatic transmission.
This van has a very tight ATF drain plug, if torqued to factory settings so I use a special 18 inch breaker bar + mallet to hit the handle of the breaker bar to break open the drain plug.
One sliding door has gone to manual (no power mode) due to a broken cable and possible door motor issue.
Honda Dealer wants $1300 to fix it. Decided to skip that repair and keep it as a manual door.
My local mechanic doesn't want to touch the sliding door issue.
Also, delayed getting the timing belt replaced at 105,000 miles. I did extensive internet searches and it seems to be safe to do it at 125k miles on the timing belt. Will get it replaced in about 5,000 miles from now @ 125k miles on the belt.
Then new timing belt will be good for an additional 125k miles, which will get me to 310k miles on the van, so likely won't have to do another timing belt replacement. Dealer want's $1900 to replace the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and oil seals nearby. I found a local independent mechanic that is willing to do it for $800 labor with me supplying the genuine Honda parts which I buy online at discounted prices from Majestic Honda (hondaautotiveparts.com).
Overall this van has been extremely reliable from 99k miles to 181k miles, very few repairs at all. I've been lucky.
Van has leather seats, Sunroof, heated seats, Navigation screen, DVD screen, 8th seat.
The body is in mint conditon, so someone unfamiliar with the Honda Odyssey generations might think its a much newer vehicle.
We still use it for our cross country trips without worry. We like to drive it to Florida twice a year (with the whole family - all 8 seats occupied in the van usually). It's been getting 27.5 MPG on the highway if driven with cruise control on at 65 MPG on that trip. VCM is still enabled. Engine mounts haven't failed yet on the two 2007 Honda Odyssey's EX-L's I have with 180k+ miles. It might just have been a 2005-2006 issue.
I bought it at 99k miles used for $4400 US in Sept 2019. It's was a good purchase that I would do again.
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The Quaker State Euro 5w40 with it's approvals for: Mercedes Benz MB 229.5, Porsche A40, Acea A3/B4
passes some very stringent certifications that are superior to any of the weak US API SQ / Dexos approvals.
You are likely using one of the best available oils for wear and sludge/varnish protection (as it passes those strict European standards).
I was thinking about using it in my mini-vans, as the Honda J35 V-6 in my 2 Odysseys had an engine design issue causing extreme hot temps on the cylinder heads due to a poorly designed PCV and VCM.
Regarding getting off the old filter, I always lubricate the gasket of the new filter as that lubrication helps the filter come off the next time. I don't like doing oil changes on vehicles where I didn't do the previous oil change, as others tend to over tighten the filter and drain plug for no reason.
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I agree the timing belt will probably be just fine. The water pump is more likely to go out on it earlier than the belt, but you can keep a close eye on it for leaks, and it'll probably make noise first too, so you're probably safe. You're very smart to use OEM parts. Many are penny wise and pound foolish when it comes to these maintenance items and pay the price later when their cheap water pump decides to go out early or one of the non-OEM seals goes out and you get a coolant leak.
I agree with you that Quaker State Euro 5W-40 would be an excellent choice in that engine known to get hot and burn oil. Another option is to keep doing what you're doing with the Supertech and keep a close eye on it for consumption. If you get any noticeable consumption then just switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 and run it until it goes away.
You've definitely gotten great value out of it!
That's a P-style gasket. You need to tight the filter until it bottoms out, otherwise 13ft/lbs. They are to be installed tighter than the flat lathe cut gasket.2008 CRV with 252k mile. 4900 miles on the oil. 100 miles shy of my planned 5k interval but it was 40F, partly sunny, I had time, and she might go visit friends this week.
Out - 5qts Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-20
In - 3.75qts Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-20 and .75qt of Mobil 1 plain triple action 5W-30. Used up 2 open qts so I didn't need to open a 5qt jug.
Filter off- Honda Filtech A01.
Filter on - my last one from @researcher, Honda Filtech A01,.
This is the first time I saw some oil drip under the car. It looks like it was coming from filter gasket possibly. I did drain and re-use that filter after 900 miles last time. Maybe the gasket didn't like being re-compressed? The filter was on tight, I used my filter cap to loosen it. Also notice the paint scraped off where it contacted. The gasket is not that thick or far from edge when I look at it. I never had an issue before but also never drained/re-used a filter before. All cleaned up with brake cleaner after so we'll see what next change brings. No oil was added over the 4900 miles and it was still at full mark.
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Out Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20
In Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 1394 Napa Gold
Tire Rotation and Air Fill
2021 Toyota CHR 37k miles
In Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 1394 Napa Gold
Tire Rotation and Air Fill
2021 Toyota CHR 37k miles