Post your latest oil change

Will the 3593a fit if you want something bigger or is there an obstruction off to the side of oil filter mount.
It should, the base is a tad bit wider on the 3593a, but most Honda guys seem to interchange the 7317/3593a often. I think they are the same capacity, with the 3593a being shorter (not as short as the 6607) and wider, and the 7317 being taller. If it's not a Honda I would just make sure the oil filter housing is wide enough to accommodate the 3593a.
 
View attachment 64635View attachment 64636
2011 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid @90000 mi

Out: Valvoline High Mileage Full Syn 5w-20; OEM 35505 filter
In: Valvoline EP Full Syn 5w-30; OEM 35505 Filter
OCI: 3200 mi

Fumoto valve makes me wonder if I can change oil w/o an oil pan. It all works well until I'm ready to take the filter off. Filter doesn't care, oil dripping left and right, eventually I have to grab an oil pan to finish the job. Almost forget to collect an used oil sample.
I'm surprise the oil getting that dark, it only stay in my car for two month and I drive on highway most of the time.

@wemay Valvoline EP doesn't quiet my fuel rail( or valve train/injector, whatever the noise is), next time will definitely give QS a shot. In fact I can't feel any difference compare to 5w-20 on the way to recycle oil.

BTW some part of my car's under-body has similar rust shown in pic2. Should I be concerned about it and apply some WD40 as protection, or leave it alone? Currently I'm following my user manual, give her a bath with undercarriage wash every two weeks.
For a 2011, that little bit of rust is nothing. I wouldnt worry, just keep washing underneath every so often.
 
2018 Kia Sportage. 5K miles. The never ending quest to find something it doesn’t drink like water. It did slow down a little with the M1HM

Out: Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30 and OEM filter

In: Super Tech Syn High Mileage 10W-30 and OEM filter
Wow, using 10W-30 on such modern engine, I can sense your pain trying to find a cure. Have you try using 40 weight oil?
Dealer doesn't think it is a defect and should covered by warranty?
 
2018 Kia Sportage. 5K miles. The never ending quest to find something it doesn’t drink like water. It did slow down a little with the M1HM

Out: Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30 and OEM filter

In: Super Tech Syn High Mileage 10W-30 and OEM filter
Maybe try some straight 30 or straight 40 Fram (carquest) oil next time.
 
2015 Nissan Altima S (for strippie), 147K, 5.6K OCI, 26K on filter
Out: 5 qt Kirkland 0w20, Fram XG7317
In: 5 qt ST 0w20, M1 filter

This Altima was a high mileage, abused Hertz rental. Maybe never seen the inside of a garage, except when I service it.
I got it for my friend Dan who invented this game, "Daniel the car killer". I have been losing this game for many years.
The car has been perfect with normal services. Dan has had it for about 70K miles.
CVT service helps, in case you are wondering.
 
2015 Lincoln MKC - 2.3L @65,877. This oci had 3,400 miles. I cut it short because I had a fuel induction service performed Friday. Plan on running this combo for 5,000 mile ocis…

out - Magnetec 5w-30 and Wix filter - This oil looked really rough for only 3,400 miles, prolly because of the induction service…
in - Kirkland 5w-30 FS and Motorcraft FL 910s
 

Attachments

  • 2B47AFB6-2093-41A5-BC30-0B1187B62798.jpeg
    2B47AFB6-2093-41A5-BC30-0B1187B62798.jpeg
    157.4 KB · Views: 31
Wow, using 10W-30 on such modern engine, I can sense your pain trying to find a cure. Have you try using 40 weight oil?
Dealer doesn't think it is a defect and should covered by warranty?
I was told by the dealer that it had to be more than 1 quart per 1,000 miles. We’re not quite there yet, but maybe by the time the 100k warranty is up?
 
1998 Ford Ranger 4.0
Out: complete frankenbrew of 5 different conventional oils (using up old stock, probably somewhere around a heavy 10w30 mix) and a dose of Seafoam, and any remaining motor medic flush from the last change 120 miles ago. This oil only had 120 miles on it, seafoam in crank, and whatever residual motor medic. It went in honey colored, and came out dark caramel so it was an intended short OCI and doing it's job to clean and extract and carry away gunk. [I did motor medic prior to the last change, 1/2 a dose to try it. Seemed to work well for that OC and this one as well.]

In: Quaker State High Miles full synthetic 5w30 acquired for $6 and $4 Motorcraft filter
Cost = $10.
 
1998 Ford Ranger 4.0
Out: complete frankenbrew of 5 different conventional oils (using up old stock, probably somewhere around a heavy 10w30 mix) and a dose of Seafoam, and any remaining motor medic flush from the last change 120 miles ago. This oil only had 120 miles on it, seafoam in crank, and whatever residual motor medic. It went in honey colored, and came out dark caramel so it was an intended short OCI and doing it's job to clean and extract and carry away gunk. [I did motor medic prior to the last change, 1/2 a dose to try it. Seemed to work well for that OC and this one as well.]

In: Quaker State High Miles full synthetic 5w30 acquired for $6 and $4 Motorcraft filter
Cost = $10.
That's a good deal! How do you get such a low price?
 
2016 Hyundai Accent SE 153,150 miles, 2810 OCI.
Out: Valvoline Maxlife 10w40, Liqui moly Mos2, OEM filter.
In: Valvoline Premium Blue one solution 15w40, OEM filter.

Looked like there was some leftover LM Mos2 on the dipstick after filling, so didn't add any this time. Also did the plugs, power delivery at low RPM/high load was getting lumpy. NGK laser iridium out, NGK laser iridium back in. No more lumpiness. Plugs looked used but normal
 
Back
Top