Post your latest oil change

Another tough OC.
2011 Nissan Sentra 2.0 S
113255 miles on MR20DE engine.

Out: SuperTech Mix (5w20 Full Syth SN, and 5w30 High Mileage Full Synth SP).
In: SuperTech 5w30 High Mileage Full Synth SP (and < 1qt of fresh left over mix listed above) whatever comes out to 4.12 qts or 3.9L, which is what the Owner Manual states, but is always beyond the H mark on the dipstick, which makes it hard to tell if any oil is getting "used" because when I check it over time, it seems to still be above the H mark, whether checked hot or cold.

Off: AC Delco PF1237 Oil filter
On: AC Delco PF1237

I guess I forgot how to change oil, or I don't know anymore, or I'm not doing something properly.

This is the 2nd oil change where I have had extreme difficulty in removing the oil filter.

The first oil change I ever did on this car was in May 2020 (I got the car August 2019, and I'm not sure when the oil was last changed prior, so the oil could have been in about a year). The ACDleco PF1237 filter came off no problem with the strap/band filter wrench, which was probably a little bigger than the filter. I installed a Denso 150-2002 filter.

The next OC, the Denso filter came off, no problem, again with the strap/band filter wrench. It was replaced with a Fram TG6607 filter.

Ok, so 3rd change, and the Fram TG just would not budge. The strap/band wrench just would not grip, it kept slipping, and it seems it is now bent out of shape, and the rivets/welds where the strap comes together (I don't know how to describe precisely, but you get the picture), seem to be not as strong. I had a heck of a time, and finally, a pair of large ChannelLock/water pump pliers worked, and the poor TG6607 filter became mangled beyond recognition as a result. It was replaced with an ACDelco PF1237 filter.

So, now, this most recent change. Again, I could not get the darn filter to loosen. My set of oil filter wrenches/pliers (the kind with "shark" teeth, lol) I purchased, just didn't want to grip. I purchased two different wrenches, and they just scrape the paint off. So, I had to use the water pump pliers again (which have no teeth, and don't grip well, either, but I can crush the filter which allows a better grip to be had) and the filter again became mangled. But before I could use the water pump pliers, I could not get good enough purchase, so I had unclamp one end of the the coolant hose, and it puked coolant into my oil catch pan. I was finally able to get the filter off. I replaced the filter and reconnected the coolant hose, and refilled the oil and coolant. I have not had to disconnect one end of the coolant hose the previous 3 times doing OCs on this car, so why now this time?

So, why are these last two oil filters so difficult to remove? I do not use a wrench to tighten the filters; I just spin them on until I can't turn any more. I also give a good smear of fresh new oil on the o-ring (except for the Desno, which was pre-oiled). I don't recall if I put oil on threads, but I generally do. I have used my MityVac 07400 fluid extractor for every oil change going back a couple vehicles, and never encountered this issue. Is it possible the vacuum created by the MityVac is sucking these filters on tighter? What am I doing incorrectly? It's not like these last 2 filters were on for an extremely long time.

I just can't figure out what I've been doing wrong. These last 2 changes, I didn't warm up the engine, so I extracted the oil "cold", but outside air temp today was around 80°. Could that be it?

I certainly do not want to drain nearly a gallon of coolant out again any time soon, so what am I not doing right? Although, since I don't know when or even if coolant was changed out, it has about a gallon of fresh Peak OEM Asian Blue, mixed in with whatever was left, so that's at least an upside.
I just found a tip that may help you in the future. Start the car and undo the filter slightly while running, this is assuming you can get to the filter safely while running.
 
2021 Toyota Venza hybrid. 5200 miles on odometer.

Out: Factory fill, factory oil filter, factory drain plug.

In:
-Mobil-1 AFE 0w16 API SP ILSAC GF-6B Resource conserving.
-Toyota OEM oil filter
-Stahlbus drain valve torqued to 18 PSI.

My 83 year old pops insisted on doing everything which he did. l was unable to do anything but watch as he removed the undercarriage cover, drain plug, oil filter, torque the new Stahlbus, and install the new oil filter and put the cover back on. He allowed me to pour the new oil in so l feel that l contributed something.

Anyways below are a few pics of the torque wrench, factory and Stahlbus drain valve, new oil filter, jug of oil, and rhino ramps. What else could someone want or need! Enjoy the pics!

The oil was still somewhat honey colored. Recommended interval is 10k in owners manual. l will probably do 7.5k intervals.
 

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2021 CRV at just over 500 miles on the clock. Fram ultra with 5w40 euro QS replaced the factory installed oil and filter.
Honda HRX217 lawn mower got a fresh fill from the drippings jug, mostly HDEO and some PCMO synthetics that I've used over the years.
 
1995 Chevrolet Cheyenne C1500
4.3 V6
Out: unknown, Fram Extra Guard PH3980 filter
In: Valvoline Daily Protection 10w30, AcDelco PF52E filter

2001 Lincoln Town Car
4.6 V8
Out: Castrol GTX 5w20, Motorcraft FL820S filter
In: Royal Purple HMX 5w20, Napa Gold 1372 filter
 
2012 Nissan Altima
105k miles
5k OCI
Out: independent crap and champion filter. Which is longer than the incoming.
in: Miles SB 5W30
Fram ExteaGuard 6607

2013 F150
75k
5k OCI
Out: MC 5w20 FL500s
In: Kirkland signature full synthetic 5W20, 8 full quarts with FL500S
 
2020 Kia Optima 2.4L
9904 mi.

Out: Unknown 5w-20 dealership bulk oil
OEM Kia/Hyundai filter 26300-35505

In: PUP 5w-20
OEM Kia/Hyundai filter 26300-35504

Was living in an apartment so was unable to change my own oil. Got my first oil change done at the dealership at 5,022 miles. Now living in a house and going back to doing my own oil changes and doing 5k OCIs. (y)
 
2012 Nissan Altima
105k miles
5k OCI
Out: independent crap and champion filter. Which is longer than the incoming.
in: Miles SB 5W30
Fram ExteaGuard 6607

2013 F150
75k
5k OCI
Out: MC 5w20 FL500s
In: Kirkland signature full synthetic 5W20, 8 full quarts with FL500S
The Nissans used a short and long filter, but they both work with other. Sometimes indy shops will just stock one or the other. The 6607 is the shorty vs the 7317 long boi
 
The Nissans used a short and long filter, but they both work with other. Sometimes indy shops will just stock one or the other. The 6607 is the shorty vs the 7317 long boi
Will the 3593a fit if you want something bigger or is there an obstruction off to the side of oil filter mount.
 
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IMG_4872.jpg

2011 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid @90000 mi

Out: Valvoline High Mileage Full Syn 5w-20; OEM 35505 filter
In: Valvoline EP Full Syn 5w-30; OEM 35505 Filter
OCI: 3200 mi

Fumoto valve makes me wonder if I can change oil w/o an oil pan. It all works well until I'm ready to take the filter off. Filter doesn't care, oil dripping left and right, eventually I have to grab an oil pan to finish the job. Almost forget to collect an used oil sample.
I'm surprise the oil getting that dark, it only stay in my car for two month and I drive on highway most of the time.

@wemay Valvoline EP doesn't quiet my fuel rail( or valve train/injector, whatever the noise is), next time will definitely give QS a shot. In fact I can't feel any difference compare to 5w-20 on the way to recycle oil.

BTW some part of my car's under-body has similar rust shown in pic2. Should I be concerned about it and apply some WD40 as protection, or leave it alone? Currently I'm following my user manual, give her a bath with undercarriage wash every two weeks.
 
View attachment 64635

BTW some part of my car's under-body has similar rust shown in pic2. Should I be concerned about it and apply some WD40 as protection, or leave it alone? Currently I'm following my user manual, give her a bath with undercarriage wash every two weeks.
Use Fluid film, crc marine, any other type of rust protectant meant for automotive applications, I doubt WD-40 would protect much on the underside of a car.
 
View attachment 64635View attachment 64636
2011 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid @90000 mi

Out: Valvoline High Mileage Full Syn 5w-20; OEM 35505 filter
In: Valvoline EP Full Syn 5w-30; OEM 35505 Filter
OCI: 3200 mi

Fumoto valve makes me wonder if I can change oil w/o an oil pan. It all works well until I'm ready to take the filter off. Filter doesn't care, oil dripping left and right, eventually I have to grab an oil pan to finish the job. Almost forget to collect an used oil sample.
I'm surprise the oil getting that dark, it only stay in my car for two month and I drive on highway most of the time.

@wemay Valvoline EP doesn't quiet my fuel rail( or valve train/injector, whatever the noise is), next time will definitely give QS a shot. In fact I can't feel any difference compare to 5w-20 on the way to recycle oil.

BTW some part of my car's under-body has similar rust shown in pic2. Should I be concerned about it and apply some WD40 as protection, or leave it alone? Currently I'm following my user manual, give her a bath with undercarriage wash every two weeks.

Thanks for sharing. Goes to show that high doesn’t necessarily equate to quieter ride. Either way that's excellent oil you're using. Give QS a try next, maybe it'll work. I wouldn't worry about the slight surface rust but spraying wd40 on it won't hurt anything.
 
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