The analysis will show PPM of the metals in the oil sample if that's what you're asking.
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I mean if the magnetic bolt change a bit the results
That's a good question. Magnetic drain plug picks up particles that indicate something is drastically wrong. When it's a fine sludge and of such a small amount, that says the internal wear is doing well. Very similar to looking at a filter and seeing if it has metal particles in it. I haven't heard a magnetic plug changes the overall analysis.
In any case, my bike typically has higher aluminum due to clutch basket wear as it's over 91,000 Mi on the original clutch. That's what has been said by folks here on the forum.
Aluminum (clutch basket) won't show on the drain plug and there's no sign of it in the filter. Analysis is microscopic particles with respect to PPM of engine wear metals.
The bike doesn't burn a drop of oil over 5,000 Mi so there's no issue in my opinion with respect to pistons or engine internals.
In any case, my bike typically has higher aluminum due to clutch basket wear as it's over 91,000 Mi on the original clutch. That's what has been said by folks here on the forum.
Aluminum (clutch basket) won't show on the drain plug and there's no sign of it in the filter. Analysis is microscopic particles with respect to PPM of engine wear metals.
The bike doesn't burn a drop of oil over 5,000 Mi so there's no issue in my opinion with respect to pistons or engine internals.
I told you that bike is bulletproof
Also the clutch basket 150.000km is outstanding
Old Japan’s bikes is taxi
on reliability
It theoretically should decrease the PPM of ferrous metals in the UOA. If all of that debris on the magnetic drain plug was put back into the oil right before the oil was changed and sampled there would be more debris in the oil. And most of that on the drain plug is too small to be captured by the oil filter.
^^^ Good info^^^
I'm pleased with what was on the magnetic drain plug, that's a win, it's such a small amount, imo.
I hammered this engine for hundreds of miles in the last 1,000 miles of the oci. Installed an AFR (air/fuel ratio) gauge and needed to go high RPM to get the carburetors up on the main jet, lots of roll on from low speed to high rpm to set the needle clip, etc. For instance, second/third gear from 2000 RPM up to 10,000 rpm, and hold it at 10,000 RPM for a few seconds to let the AFR stabilize. Third gear from the mid-range to 10,000 RPM is like the Millennium Falcon going lightspeed, a lot going on.
This oil is going to have a gold star if the analysis comes back as a typical analysis relative to what the bike has done before.
I'm pleased with what was on the magnetic drain plug, that's a win, it's such a small amount, imo.
I hammered this engine for hundreds of miles in the last 1,000 miles of the oci. Installed an AFR (air/fuel ratio) gauge and needed to go high RPM to get the carburetors up on the main jet, lots of roll on from low speed to high rpm to set the needle clip, etc. For instance, second/third gear from 2000 RPM up to 10,000 rpm, and hold it at 10,000 RPM for a few seconds to let the AFR stabilize. Third gear from the mid-range to 10,000 RPM is like the Millennium Falcon going lightspeed, a lot going on.
This oil is going to have a gold star if the analysis comes back as a typical analysis relative to what the bike has done before.
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How many miles are on the bike? Most of the stuff you'll see on a well broken in bike will be transmission gear wear. Have you ran that magnetic drain plug during other OCIs? If so, how did the level of debris compare for a similar OCI? On my Yamaha XSR900, I saw a drop in magnetic drain plug debris as the miles increased, indicating wear stabilization from break-in as the mileage increased.
The bottom end has 91,000+ miles on it. I added high compression pistons about 40,000 miles ago, ZZR camshafts about 50,000 miles to go.
I put low mile jugs (Nikasil plated) on with the high compression pistons, and had to do a new head in 2021 when a camshaft cap bolt snapped as I was removing the pitted ZZR cams (known issue) and replacing them with better looking low mile ZZR1200 cams. Many of the other bolts came out waisted, and didn't want to take a chance on the head having an issue.
Torque wrench had been apparently set too high when installing the cams the first time. Don't know how it happened but I was running the torque wrench on the low end of spec, I went to an inch pound torque wrench to be more precise for the new install.
Definitely everything is settled in for the long haul at this point.
I put low mile jugs (Nikasil plated) on with the high compression pistons, and had to do a new head in 2021 when a camshaft cap bolt snapped as I was removing the pitted ZZR cams (known issue) and replacing them with better looking low mile ZZR1200 cams. Many of the other bolts came out waisted, and didn't want to take a chance on the head having an issue.
Torque wrench had been apparently set too high when installing the cams the first time. Don't know how it happened but I was running the torque wrench on the low end of spec, I went to an inch pound torque wrench to be more precise for the new install.
Definitely everything is settled in for the long haul at this point.
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