Post Your Latest (Motorcycle) Oil Change!

2018 Triumph Bonneville T120. 10,568 miles.
OCI: 384mi or 32 months. I just purchased in private sale.

OUT Oil: Unknown 3.4L (guessing it was Castrol 10W-40 Racing 4T since dealer did the service).
OUT Filter: Triumph.

IN Oil: Castrol 10W-40 Racing 4T. 3.4L.
IN Filter: K&N 204-1.
 
After 43 years of storage, BSA 500 Goldstar B50SS Return to Flight with two changes of cheap Rotella T4 (15-40), then changed to Castrol Actevo 20W-50 syn blend.

OK - I have been working on it for the last three years.
 
2025 BMW R1300GS in for the free 600 mile service which included a change of oil, filter, and final drive lube.
The shop used OEM BMW Advantec 5-40 synthetic oil, cartridge filter, and 70-80 lube.
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From IPONE 0W30 Katana Scoot to Redline 10W30 Motorcycle oil

Scooter HONDA SH150 MY22
KF40 , ESP+ engine

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That was less than a month on that oil. Did you run that long to require a change or was the ipone oil giving you issues?
Doing every day 60-80km not less
Change to redline just for the higher HTHS, weather here on Athens/Greece start getting hotter
No issues with IPONE oil.
On that small motor without oil filter (just an oil screen) and 800ml oil amount, I change it every month.
 
1982 Yamaha Seca XJ750:
Out: 15w40 HDEO that was in for rehabbing the bike. The bike was in great shape other than 20 years of sitting.
In: HiFlo filter, 20w50 Castrol GTX conventional. Bike is a great runner.

1983 Honda Nighthawk CB550SC, free rehab project from the local motorcycle repair shop. It's a rough looking project for sure.
Out: whatever the heck oil was in there for the last 15 to 20 years as it sat in some guy's garage. It was black after starting up and idling a bit before draining. Old filter looked good. No way to fully warm it up at this point but fresh oil was definitely in the cards.

In: HiFlo filter, Valvoline 20w50 conventional MC oil. This is sacrificial oil from a closeout sale. Once it's on the road, after a few rides will change it to clean out more old oil. Fully rebuilt/cleaned and sync'd the carbs, need front caliper rebuild kit to arrive and new turn signals as well before its maiden ride.
 
I did something perhaps stupid, but I did it for science! Today I drained the 350 mile 300V out of my CRF250L and refilled with Maxima Extra 10w-40. Changed the filter with a new K&N.

I recently stocked up on a bunch of Maxima extra ($63/gal) and proplus ($42/gal) for all my bikes before price increases hit and was tired of staring at the bottles wondering if it was as good, better or worse than the 300v that had this thing shifting like butter. I’m heading to Florida (from VA) and leaving the bike at my house in FL so I just decided to start the trip fresh with the Maxima extra and drained the Motul back into the bottle for something else. It has 350 miles and still looks clear and green. Maybe it’ll end up back in the 250 if the Maxima is a disappointment.

Ive put about 1000 miles on the Proplus 10w-40 in my Vulcan 900 and 600 miles on the SCR950 with 20w-50 proplus. Working great on both of those bikes. The CRF is going to see a lot of trails and sand so I’m excited to try the Maxima in it. It has seen 300v since 200 miles on the odometer when I drained the very glittery factory fill.

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What's the science draining one of the best oils in 300V out there after 350 miles? You said it shifts like butter. Is an analysis in the cards for it?
Much less scientific science. Just seeing how maxima compares at half the price of the motul in terms of shift feel. I know both of these (or probably any other oil on earth) will take care of this honda forever.

I’ll buy boutique oil all day but I dont think I’ll pay for an analysis. These engines are bulletproof.
 
Much less scientific science. Just seeing how maxima compares at half the price of the motul in terms of shift feel. I know both of these (or probably any other oil on earth) will take care of this honda forever.

I’ll buy boutique oil all day but I dont think I’ll pay for an analysis. These engines are bulletproof.
shifting is correct chain alignment and not to tight, oil has nothing to do with.
also chain alignment and tighten must be with the rider above the bike, to get the correct free play of chain.
 
shifting is correct chain alignment and not to tight, oil has nothing to do with.
Correct clutch adjustment and throttle control to remove load off the gears when the shift is made. That's why auto shifters work so well, the ECU takes the load off the transmission without ever disengaging the clutch. Same could be done by someone with expert throttle control without disengaging the clutch so the transmission isn't loaded when the gear shift is done. Oil can make a difference, and why some transmissions start shifting worse as the oil wears out.
 
Correct clutch adjustment and throttle control to remove load off the gears when the shift is made. That's why auto shifters work so well, the ECU takes the load off the transmission without ever disengaging the clutch. Same could be done by someone with expert throttle control without disengaging the clutch so the transmission isn't loaded when the gear shift is done. Oil can make a difference, and why some transmissions start shifting worse as the oil wears out.
never had problems in my bikes and say the phrase "shifting is worst with that oil"

mostly was chain alignment and correct free play and not the oil itself
 
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