Last blend I used was Rotella SAE 30 SM and QSGB SAE 30 from 2015 and some DELO CLE 10w30 CK4/SN
UOA coming soon
UOA coming soon
Post your last blend
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I notice fellow “mix not blend” Nazi is taking the day off. You know who you are
Latest Is 2 qts MC 15w-40, 1qt VML 10w-30, and 1qt of PP 5w-20 going into the 92 Accord. Will be doing a VOA then UOA at 5k for that one. Gotta get rid of the scraps.
Latest Is 2 qts MC 15w-40, 1qt VML 10w-30, and 1qt of PP 5w-20 going into the 92 Accord. Will be doing a VOA then UOA at 5k for that one. Gotta get rid of the scraps.
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Can I offer up a bit of advice if you want really to play the engine oil blending game...
First of all, I'd say don't bother with blending stuff that is nominally the same. If I look at the PQIA numbers for say conventional US GF-5 5W30s, I see a whole lot of oils that are 'more similar' than they are 'more different' (they also tend to be uniformly bad!). There is little to be gained from mixing similar oils.
Second, it's a truism in the additive industry that the most important bit of any additive is The First Bit. For example, if typically an engine oil contains 1.0% ZDDP, the first 0.1% of ZDDP you add to the oil will give a far bigger bump in oil performance that the last 0.1%. So part of the trick to blending oils is to find two oils which are both overly rich is one component or one property and blend these together to get something that may be better than the two individual oils.
For example, some synthetic Japanese oils are IMO overly rich in Moly (1000 ppm Mo isn't that uncommon). If for example, you were to add at 20% of this to say Citgo's Moly-free 10W mono-grade CF/CF-2 HDDO (actually a 10W16), the 10W is going to get a big kick in wear and oxidation performance from the Moly you add from the Japanese oil. However, whilst the 10W might have a decent content of ZDDP & Detergent, it might be somewhat deficient in Ashless Dispersant for a PCMO. In which case you might want to add say 20% of a modern CK-4 10W30 HDDO oil specifically because it will be loaded up to the gunnels with Ashless. If you really want to get creative, and TBN is the thing that floats your boat, then maybe blend in some Marine oil (no pun intended) because Marine oils tend to contain shed loads of over-based detergent relative to everything else they contain. Obviously you need to think hard about what objectives you're chasing and why but blending things that are 'different' is generally better than blending stuff that is the same.
Happy blending BITOG'ers!
First of all, I'd say don't bother with blending stuff that is nominally the same. If I look at the PQIA numbers for say conventional US GF-5 5W30s, I see a whole lot of oils that are 'more similar' than they are 'more different' (they also tend to be uniformly bad!). There is little to be gained from mixing similar oils.
Second, it's a truism in the additive industry that the most important bit of any additive is The First Bit. For example, if typically an engine oil contains 1.0% ZDDP, the first 0.1% of ZDDP you add to the oil will give a far bigger bump in oil performance that the last 0.1%. So part of the trick to blending oils is to find two oils which are both overly rich is one component or one property and blend these together to get something that may be better than the two individual oils.
For example, some synthetic Japanese oils are IMO overly rich in Moly (1000 ppm Mo isn't that uncommon). If for example, you were to add at 20% of this to say Citgo's Moly-free 10W mono-grade CF/CF-2 HDDO (actually a 10W16), the 10W is going to get a big kick in wear and oxidation performance from the Moly you add from the Japanese oil. However, whilst the 10W might have a decent content of ZDDP & Detergent, it might be somewhat deficient in Ashless Dispersant for a PCMO. In which case you might want to add say 20% of a modern CK-4 10W30 HDDO oil specifically because it will be loaded up to the gunnels with Ashless. If you really want to get creative, and TBN is the thing that floats your boat, then maybe blend in some Marine oil (no pun intended) because Marine oils tend to contain shed loads of over-based detergent relative to everything else they contain. Obviously you need to think hard about what objectives you're chasing and why but blending things that are 'different' is generally better than blending stuff that is the same.
Happy blending BITOG'ers!
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Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
Can I offer up a bit of advice if you want really to play the engine oil blending game...
Urban Dictionary: Enabler - Supports another's bad habits
Can I offer up a bit of advice if you want really to play the engine oil blending game...
Urban Dictionary: Enabler - Supports another's bad habits
https://www.mobil.com/en/industrial/lubricants/products/mobil-delvac-1220
The specs are on the bottom of the page for 1200 series mono-grades.
Every blend (mix),like a house needs a good foundation to build upon.
The specs are on the bottom of the page for 1200 series mono-grades.
Every blend (mix),like a house needs a good foundation to build upon.
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Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
Second, it's a truism in the additive industry that the most important bit of any additive is The First Bit. For example, if typically an engine oil contains 1.0% ZDDP, the first 0.1% of ZDDP you add to the oil will give a far bigger bump in oil performance that the last 0.1%. So part of the trick to blending oils is to find two oils which are both overly rich is one component or one property and blend these together to get something that may be better than the two individual oils.
That's what I've always meant by "linearity" in response...the behaviour is non linear...then the nett effect has to be additive to get you back to baseline.
Back in the day when unleaded was new in Oz, and we still had full leaded, a 50:50 brew of 98RON unleaded and 98RON super (leaded) was basically 100RON.
That's what I ran in my Torana (Slopeback Vauxhaul Viva, with 3000cc 6 cylinder, and I had triple 1-3/4 S.U. carbs amongst other things.
20L super (leaded 98RON)
20L Premium ULP (98 RON, and back in the day a LOT of bezene).
4 litres metho (methylated spirits)
250ml Acetone (or MEK).
2 boxes of mothballs
That was my "hi po" brew...only brew that would stop it running for 10-15 secs after turning it off.
Second, it's a truism in the additive industry that the most important bit of any additive is The First Bit. For example, if typically an engine oil contains 1.0% ZDDP, the first 0.1% of ZDDP you add to the oil will give a far bigger bump in oil performance that the last 0.1%. So part of the trick to blending oils is to find two oils which are both overly rich is one component or one property and blend these together to get something that may be better than the two individual oils.
That's what I've always meant by "linearity" in response...the behaviour is non linear...then the nett effect has to be additive to get you back to baseline.
Back in the day when unleaded was new in Oz, and we still had full leaded, a 50:50 brew of 98RON unleaded and 98RON super (leaded) was basically 100RON.
That's what I ran in my Torana (Slopeback Vauxhaul Viva, with 3000cc 6 cylinder, and I had triple 1-3/4 S.U. carbs amongst other things.
20L super (leaded 98RON)
20L Premium ULP (98 RON, and back in the day a LOT of bezene).
4 litres metho (methylated spirits)
250ml Acetone (or MEK).
2 boxes of mothballs
That was my "hi po" brew...only brew that would stop it running for 10-15 secs after turning it off.
To avoid confusion, in NA we use RON+MON/2.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Back in the day when unleaded was new in Oz, and we still had full leaded, a 50:50 brew of 98RON unleaded and 98RON super (leaded) was basically 100RON.
Yep, that is what I ran all the time in my 11.5 : 1 compression motorcycles.
Back in the day when unleaded was new in Oz, and we still had full leaded, a 50:50 brew of 98RON unleaded and 98RON super (leaded) was basically 100RON.
Yep, that is what I ran all the time in my 11.5 : 1 compression motorcycles.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
To avoid confusion, in NA we use RON+MON/2.
Not trying to start a fight, but is that
RON + MON/2
Or
(RON+MON)/2
??
I assume the second.
To avoid confusion, in NA we use RON+MON/2.
Not trying to start a fight, but is that
RON + MON/2
Or
(RON+MON)/2
??
I assume the second.
Right !!
20 push-ups for userfriendly
Incorrect or lack of correct bracket usage.
20 push-ups for userfriendly
Incorrect or lack of correct bracket usage.
That was the edit after I read asleepz's post. Just incase he was referring to me.
Crykie!
RON 98
+
MON 90
_________
188 X 50%= 94
Ya'll happy now?
RON 98
+
MON 90
_________
188 X 50%= 94
Ya'll happy now?
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
That was the edit after I read asleepz's post. Just incase he was referring to me.
Nope! Shannow gets all the credit for that one.
That was the edit after I read asleepz's post. Just incase he was referring to me.
Nope! Shannow gets all the credit for that one.
Lol. Your punishment for getting all mathy on me, is 2 posts in the dark Amsoil thread. Almost a prisoner's dilemma.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Picky, picky. I knew what he meant, and I bet y'all did too.
For my sins, I am required to help high school students with their maths and science homework.
Working with teenagers, it's now obvious to me that brackets in mathematics and units in physics and chemistry are considered completely optional.
The look of disappointment on their faces when they get an exam back, with the correct answers but marks lost for incorrect working and missing units, is soothed by my serene smile, and the comforting words "I told you so".
Picky, picky. I knew what he meant, and I bet y'all did too.
For my sins, I am required to help high school students with their maths and science homework.
Working with teenagers, it's now obvious to me that brackets in mathematics and units in physics and chemistry are considered completely optional.
The look of disappointment on their faces when they get an exam back, with the correct answers but marks lost for incorrect working and missing units, is soothed by my serene smile, and the comforting words "I told you so".
Yeah, I picked up on that straight away.
No bonus marks for interpretation, intrinsic or artistic impression from those who see science 'n math as an art form.
No bonus marks for interpretation, intrinsic or artistic impression from those who see science 'n math as an art form.
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