Portable 2 cycle lawn equipment ratio

Status
Not open for further replies.
Every oil injection system I have ever saw usually loaded up worse than pre-mix. I have dis-connected and looped the system on my Polaris's and old Yamaha DT. Pre-mix is by far the safest and suest way to lubricate the engine correctly. This post started out on lawn equipment and now we are into motorcycles. The original idea is it doesn't matter if its 32:1,40:1 or 50:1 it won't matter with lawn equipment. They are not that sensitive to fuel mixture and it will not effect your fuel to air.
 
Originally Posted By: Bear
I used to have three 2 cycle gas cans: 32:1, 40:1 and a 50:1. After reading here and on chain saw sites I now only have one can,
50:1 for everything. And you have proffesional landscapers running their stuff at 100:1 with Opti 1 oil.
Things change.


Things definitely change, glad to hear you made an intelligent choice.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
So, in reality, the "oil build up" issue is of no significance if the machine is to be run a high rpms most of the time.

I've yet to work on a two cycle engine that had bushing type bearings. I know they exist, I just haven't seen nor worked on one. Even the old Lawn Boy mowers I own have a rather crude needle bearing arrangement in the big end. They come in a strip that must be laid into the bearing seat on the conrod then the into the seat of the conrod cap then the two are bolted together. I used to use grease to hold them in position until I could get the cap on.

Despite the crudeness, it makes bearing replacement much easier than disassembling the crank to change big end bearings as is necessary on most two cycle engines I've worked on.

I've got plenty of two cycle OPE and ALL of them smoke on startup regardless of the mix ratio. Doesn't matter if it's 50:1 or even 100:1 as with my outboard engines. They all smoke on start up, primarily from being choked resulting in lots of fuel&oil in the system to get things rolling. Once warmed up and running, even at slow speeds, smoke is virtually invisible.

By the way, just for clarification, from anything I've read, oil injection was invented and used simply for the convenience of not having to mix oil with the fuel. I've yet to see any literature stating that it was invented to eliminate oil build up in the crank case.

As far as the ratios it pumps oil at, it varies from virtually nothing at idle speed to very rich at full throttle. Can't recall the exact numbers but I'm fairly certain that at full throttle it can be more than 25:1 on the old Yamahas. The first thing people who race RDs (any any other racing two cycles) do is disconnect the oil injection and go straight to premix usually 32:1.

Being that you're a trained two cycle mechanic, I'm certain you've heard of the legendary A. Graham Bell. If not, you should read his book "Two Stroke Performance Tuning". Serious reading for the two cycle aficionado.



OIl build up is usually not a problem at high rpm since the fuel (and some of the oil) move through the engine quickly, however with enough oil in the premix or bad injector pump it can become a problem.

Bushings were used in some two strokes many years ago, but are no longer seen, The Lawn Boy big end needle bearing you mentioned is easy to replace and almost never gives problems.

I feel I am doing a lot or repeating. When a working oil pump delivers a small amount of oil at idle and more as rpm increases as it was designed to do. oil build up in the crankcase is kept to a minimum without the owner knowing what the ratios are. Many of these pumps proved troublesome and had a tendency to go out of adjustment, hence they were disconnected and the more reliable premix was used, coming full circle and bringing back the problem of oil build up with incorrect premix ratios.

I never claimed any expertise, nor am I a trained two cycle mechanic. I was employed as a motorcycle mechanic and learned on and off the job.
 
Ok, Im sure of one thing: Garden equipment will do great on 50:1 or even 100:1 if the lube allows it like amsoil (given that you adjust carb)
About the oil buildup that seems to yank some chains... I'm not so sure. It will not build up anything in a screaming 2T since it's a bit too windy in there. On the other hand, I do remember trolling with older 2T outboards and some of them didn't like putting for too long, after like 30 mins they would die and becoma a pain to start. IF I caought it just before dying, when revving it would smoke heavily for a while and then it would idle for 30 again. Could this be the oil/fuel buildup mentiioned? Merc reed valves in the 70s was quite, ehh, chunky and the small engines had veery simple thermostats that maybe caused low temps when idling.
Anyways, when talking "buildup" I don't think sticky goo, rather oil/fuel settling in say the bottom corners.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom