Polar Vortex Hits US: Get your synthetic oil on...

Status
Not open for further replies.
While I am still a M1 fan, I cant help but wonder that they made their diesel oil a 5w40 so they can "claim" it has better cold flow properties compared to a dino 15w40. Heck even T6 does it. Might just be an insecurity from the chemical engineers who designed it.. lol. I may be all wet, but i want to hear others opinions.
21.gif


That being said I still think dino works well assuming you have a 5w or a 0w. If you get into like -30 or less temps (without windchill) synthetic might be a good choice, but i have no true tests to back my claim.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
On both SBC's and SBF's I've observed oil out the pushrods/rockers almost instantly even with 20w-50 in the pan........
21.gif



That has not been my experience on an engine that has been sitting overnight. The pushrods and lifters tend to drain. Nothing is instant.



Note I said ALMOST instantly, not instantly. There is of course a second or two of delay.

However if you legitimately have observed a long delay (you said minutes earlier) then you have other problems like perhaps a filter canister that is somehow draining. The head of oil above the pump, assuming a full filter, means that only a few rotations of the pump are necessarily to move oil to pressure-fed places that it has managed to drain out of. Unless of course the pump has to fill the filter back up again, which, if it is a large filter like an FL-1A sized can, could take a number of seconds.

Oil pumps are positive displacement. They move the same amount of oil whether it is the consistency of molasses or canola. That's also why an oil filter (or in the case of many GM engines, the filter mounting plate) has a bypass as part of it. Because that thick oil that the oil pump is tossing at it won't go through the media at the rate it is being pushed, which causes a differential to be created and the bypass opens, letting a percentage of the oil bypass the media.

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
People starting up in these extremely low temps are causing greater than average wear on their engines. I don't care what kind or grade of oil you have in it.


I live in Canada, I start in cold temperatures pretty regularly. That's why I usually run a 0w-xx oil in my vehicles. I'd rather have an oil that is 3,000cP than one that is 4,000cP when it is -30C because it isn't the pressure-fed areas of my engine that I'm worried about. The cam/bucket interface on my car for example is obviously not pressure fed. When the oil is thick, it isn't going to be getting to that interface as quickly, because it doesn't have a pump putting it there. On many engines the cylinder walls are lubricated by a spray of oil coming out between the rod/crank interface. With cold, thick oil, that stream is more like a few thick globs, many of which don't make it to the cylinder wall. This means that the piston/cylinder interface has poorer lubrication with cold, heavy oil.

The reality of the situation however is that even with these cold starts, engines in places like Alberta aren't dying early because of the cold starts they are seeing. So while you posit that they are causing greater than average wear, the reality is that this doesn't seem to be the case in practice. Common sense things like being easy on it until warmed up a bit (keeping load low) and running a sane lubricant choice appropriate for the climate (that means not using 20w-50 when it is is -30) mean that barring some mechanical failure, the engine will (and they usually do) outlast the vehicle it is fitted to.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
While I am still a M1 fan, I cant help but wonder that they made their diesel oil a 5w40 so they can "claim" it has better cold flow properties compared to a dino 15w40. Heck even T6 does it. Might just be an insecurity from the chemical engineers who designed it.. lol. I may be all wet, but i want to hear others opinions.
21.gif


That being said I still think dino works well assuming you have a 5w or a 0w. If you get into like -30 or less temps (without windchill) synthetic might be a good choice, but i have no true tests to back my claim.


I'm not sure what you mean?

A 5w-xx oil has to be below the maximum viscosity limits for the grade to be classified as such, which means an MRV <60,000cP at -35C and a CCS of < 6,600cP at -30C. In comparison, the CCS limit for a 15w-xx is 7,000cP at -20C.
 
Take a conventional diesel oil. It's 15w40. A synthetic equivalent (M1 TDT and Rotella T6) is a 5w40. Disregarding the fact that it's synthetic vs conventional.. Of course the cold flow is better because it's a 5w vs a 15w.

Doesn't seem like too fair of a comparison.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Take a conventional diesel oil. It's 15w40. A synthetic equivalent (M1 TDT and Rotella T6) is a 5w40. Disregarding the fact that it's synthetic vs conventional.. Of course the cold flow is better because it's a 5w vs a 15w.

Doesn't seem like too fair of a comparison.


Well I don't think anybody has blended a conventional 5w-40 to allow us to make a synthetic vs conventional comparison here
wink.gif


However, you used "claim" in quotations in the post of yours I replied to which is why I responded in the manner in which I did. Mobil isn't claiming anything. The 5w-40 is labelled a 5w-40 because it passes the cold temp requirements to be classified as such. The 15w-40 conventional doesn't.

The 5w-40 is of course more expensive too, so you are paying more for better cold temperature performance. Doesn't seem unfair to me
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
Yes you definetly don't want to be cold starting with a antiquated Dino oil if your in this Polar Vortec's reach!


Utter nonsense.

It was -17 here this morning. I had to run an errand and the car started just fine. When I returned I went out and, just to see if it would start, fired up my 1947 N tractor. Along with the original 6 volt system, has Rotella 15W-40 in it. The thermometer in the shop said -11.

Turn over a bit slow? Sure. But the "antiquated" dino did just fine in every case.

It's supposed to be -10 most of the day today. I have an errand to run around 1:00, and I may take the pickup which has been sitting outside, and hasn't been started in a couple weeks. I'm quite certain it will start just fine with that antiquated dino that it has in it.

Yeah but the Mobil-1 in my engines oil pan is protecting the engine way more than your Dino sauce! LOL
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Take a conventional diesel oil. It's 15w40. A synthetic equivalent (M1 TDT and Rotella T6) is a 5w40. Disregarding the fact that it's synthetic vs conventional.. Of course the cold flow is better because it's a 5w vs a 15w.

Doesn't seem like too fair of a comparison.

It's not supposed to be. There aren't a pile of synthetic 15w-40 grades out there. What would be the point anyhow? Part of the attraction of a synthetic is the ability to create different viscosity oils that aren't otherwise available, to get better cold weather performance. What's the point if you're going to make a 15w-40?

They have 0w-40 and 0w-30 HDEOs here, too. I promise you that a synthetic 15w-40 HDEO wouldn't move off the shelf too quickly, at least where commercial buyers shop. It might work with boutiques, but it won't work with the fleet purchasers.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
While it's not wise to jump in, gun it and race off at these temperatures,


I'm sorry, but I have to do exactly that, otherwise I can't justify future experiments with Caterham blends.

smile.gif


OK I'm joking. It was 0F this morning here in MD but my garage was 39F, so I could have started the Rolla with 10w30 OK. The 0w20 will come in handy coming home from work when I have to start the car at 12F but even then dino 5w20 would be fine.

In Maryland, Synthetic 0w20 is just icing on the cake. Tomorrow things will be back to 20-ish nights and 30-ish days for most of the rest of the Winter.

I will probably run PU 5w20 this Summer, not because its "thicker" for Summer but because they don't make a 0w20, and I want to try something other than M1AFE.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Here is a Russian video of 0w20 and 0w40 oil at -50C. I have 0w40 in my turbo car but don't drive it in the winter. I would never see -50C either. Maybe -32C.

OIl at -50c - Poured 0W20 and 0w40.AVI


Interesting that the bottle the 0w-40 was being poured into already had 2" of oil into it whilst the other was almost empty
whistle.gif


That said, even at -40C (MRV temperature) there's a huge difference between even M1 0w-30 and the 0w-40, so for a 0w-20 to be significantly thinner, I don't see how anybody would find that surprising
21.gif
 
I'm so glad that I switched the Oddy over 0W-20 back last October. Both cars started up no problem this morning in this balmy 9 degree weather.
 
Certainly possible. The pump will try and move it no matter the consistency and if the stuff is as heavy as roofing tar it could certainly destroy the drive to the pump due to the insane amount of resistance.

Actually, that reminds me of the SBF guys who run 20w-50 in them and then licorice-stick the oil pump drive shafts for the same reason. Or the double-whammy: HV oil pump plus 20w-50
crazy2.gif


LOL
smile.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom