Plumbing a shop for air compressor

[Orangepeel]

Hey everyone I am curious as to what is the best way to plumb a shop for a shop size 220v air compressor. I’ve used black iron in other buildings but is that the best option or is there better options? I am thinking I will have the air compressor against the back right of the building and run air lines across the back with hose reels on the wall I then would run one line down the right wall toward the front where the video was taken from to have an air hose there and then another to the left for air on that end. Curious as to what you guys think is the best way to do this job. Thanks everyone!

 

[CarLuver]

seems like a lot of folks are using flexible lines these days. easier to install than black pipe and not a dangerous as pvc

https://www.amazon.com/Compressed-G...prefix=air+comprssor+line,aps,172&sr=8-6&th=1

 

[billt460]

I didn't plumb my entire garage. But I did run a line from my compressor, to a 50 foot retractable hose reel located near the door, to reach any part of the driveway.

I used 1/2" heavy wall copper pipe, and sweat soldered all the fittings to receive threaded couplers. It worked out well. That was 6 years ago.

 

[burbguy82]

Using a metal pipe of some kind is important. Plastic pipe, while able to easily withstand the pressure, is brittle, and with age gets more brittle. Impact to a pipe can cause a violent explosion that send sharp plastic pieces through the air.

Metal piping is expensive and more labor intensive that plastic.

Pex can be used just as well, and there is no chance of explosive event, it will hold pressure no problem. Pex is smaller internally, so if 1/2 " black iron is the required volume, use 3/4 pex. Because of vibration, i would use crimp type and not use sharkbite type fittings. Pex would be fastest, and most easily added on to later.

As to the connection with the compressor, i would use a flexible connector of whatever size to minimize vibrations into the system and supporting structure.

cpvc is more durable that pvc and has a high flow than pex, but imo, i would protect the pipe with 1/2" wall thickness insulation to prevent impact exposure.

Typical support spacing on pex is 32 inches,and cpvc is 36 inches.

 

[D60]

Stick the compressor in a shed outside. It only takes a hole to come through the wall.

I used copper circa 2006, but maybe that's cost prohibitive these days. Still, the ROI is significant ‐‐ it'll last indefinitely and you don't need to be great at sweating (I wasn't).

I just had a rubber hose made up to connect to the compressor. Find anyplace that advertises "we make hydraulic hoses".

I did a "cooling wall" of up and down runs with a ball valve at the bottom of each to allow water to drop out.

These days I use my compressor A LOT less because most stuff is cordless. 80% of the time I fire up the compressor to blow stuff off, 19% to inflate tires and 1% for the plasma or other air tools.

My system's been in place ~19 years and has been maintenance free, except for crappy ARO (IR) regulators dying. I finally got sick of regulators and now run unregulated for the past ~5 years. Honestly, best thing I ever did but if you have tools that are fragile you need to have a regulator on them, eg my pneumatic engraver and plasma get dedicated regulators

 

[AdmiralYoda]

I'd avoid black iron pipe. Even if you have a water separator or dryer there will be moisture in the lines. Over time the inside of the pipe may rust a bit and some rust might find its way into your tools.

PEX is good to about 160psi at room temp but the pressure rating goes down as temp goes up. At 120F the max pressure is 130psi. Probably not a problem unless you are in a super hot garage in the desert. Might be worth regulating the pressure to 100-120 psi anyways.

 

[Chris142]

Every shop I have worked in including the one I am in now uses schedule 40 PVC pipe . We get inspected every year and none of the inspectors said anything about it.

 

[Creekside]

Black pipe for your main line up near the ceiling and then you can do your drops in air brake tubing. Make sure your main line slopes away from the compressor with a moisture trap and drain on the far end. To be “right” each drop should have a trap and drain as well. I also highly recommend the Wix Aquachek filter system coming out of the compressor.

 

[Cujet]

Every shop I have worked in including the one I am in now uses schedule 40 PVC pipe . We get inspected every year and none of the inspectors said anything about it.

I did exactly that at home. A short run from the small Porter-Cable compressor in the attic to a storage tank, then down to the garage, and a retractable reel. 22 years no, no issues. 140PSI.

 

[burbguy82]

Every shop I have worked in including the one I am in now uses schedule 40 PVC pipe . We get inspected every year and none of the inspectors said anything about it.

you get what inspected?

 

[billt460]

I don't think there is anything wrong with PVC for this purpose. About the only thing that will deteriorate PVC is long term exposure to UV light... (Sunlight). Not an issue inside a garage. And just paint it if it is.

If you think Schedule 40 isn't good enough, you can go with Schedule 80. The main thing is to be sure to use a primer first, then apply a good, fresh amount of cement.

It's a hell of a lot easier, much faster, and cheaper as well. I may be adding another run across my garage, to another hose reel. And extend it so I'll have compressed air at my reloading benches. If I do I'm going with PVC.

 

[Hohn]

PVC pipe is a terrible choice. Yes it degrades with UV, but it also degrades with moisture and heat-- two things your compressed air will have unless you also own a cryogenic dryer. Which we as home gamers do not have.

PVC is a terrible choice because TransAir and RapidAir systems-- actually designed for compressed air-- work brilliantly and cost about the same as running black iron pipe. Only they are much faster to install, much safer, less likely to leak, and will not corrode.

https://transairaluminumpipe.com/

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pr...-master-kits/rapidair-compressed-air-products


If you can, I recommend divorcing your compressor's pump output from the tank schematically. Yes, keep the compressor mounted to the tank. But send the compressor's output through a heat exchanger (trans coolers are popular) and into your shop plumbing FIRST. Then plumb the shop plumbing to your tank. IN other words, plumb the tank in *parallel* with your main shop piping, NOT in series like a regular setup is. You'll still need the compressor inlet check valve and such.

This way, you can cool and drop moisture from the air before sending it to the tank. This keeps the tank much dryer and keeps it happy and rust-free.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Easy solution just use the proper length hose, and no need to waste time installing a bunch of pipe. For an industrial shop where more than one person needs to use air then yeah plumb it.

 

[Chris142]

you get what inspected?

The shop. None of the inspectors ever said anything about the pipe

 

[tnt_motorsports]

@Orangepeel every shop I've been in (mechanic and factory) have had black pipe for compressed air. FWIW, I would stick with black pipe and then add your hose reels after that.

Just my $0.02

 

[burbguy82]

The shop. None of the inspectors ever said anything about the pipe

That is because atmospheric compressed air systems are not typically inspectable by a inspection dept...........trust me I know.

Just because they did not say anything, does not make it ok.

https://www.charlottepipe.com/uploads/documents/technical/ISI.pdf

an excerpt:
Testing with or using compressed air or gas in ABS / CPVC / PVC pipe or fittings can result in explosive failures and cause severe injury or death1. NEVER test with or transport/store compressed air or gas in ABS / CPVC / PVC pipe or fittings1. Similarly, testing with or using compressed air or gas in Cast Iron pipe or fittings can also result in explosive failures and severe injury or death2. NEVER test Cast Iron pipe or fittings with compressed air or gas2.

Above in #4, I advise against CPVC and PVC for this application, but also advised for safety concerns what could be done to help lessen the danger.

 

[D60]

That is because atmospheric compressed air systems are not typically inspectable by a inspection dept...........trust me I know.

Just because they did not say anything, does not make it ok.

https://www.charlottepipe.com/uploads/documents/technical/ISI.pdf

an excerpt:
Testing with or using compressed air or gas in ABS / CPVC / PVC pipe or fittings can result in explosive failures and cause severe injury or death1. NEVER test with or transport/store compressed air or gas in ABS / CPVC / PVC pipe or fittings1. Similarly, testing with or using compressed air or gas in Cast Iron pipe or fittings can also result in explosive failures and severe injury or death2. NEVER test Cast Iron pipe or fittings with compressed air or gas2.

Above in #4, I advise against CPVC and PVC for this application, but also advised for safety concerns what could be done to help lessen the danger.

You're screaming into the wind. I've given up, figuring one of two things:
1) natural selection will occur
if not, proceed to
2) God watches over children and fools

 

[burbguy82]

You're screaming into the wind. I've given up, figuring one of two things:
1) natural selection will occur
if not, proceed to
2) God watches over children and fools

It is for the uninformed as well.

I have seen cast iron explode, even at 5 psi it is scary

 

[Dinoburner]

BI pipe with drip legs on all drops. No rust after 30 years when a drop was added for the work bench. Barn work shop is unheated so tank-60 gal-is blown down after every use to prevent rust and icing.

 

[JWC86]

I did a rapid air kit, pricey but my shop isn’t as big as yours. It’s easy to use thou.