Please tell me about Rust Neutralizer

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I think it is from Rust-Oleum?

I have a few small spots of rust on around my windshield. They are small., jsut barely visible if you look at the top of the windshield. Thinking the Rust Neutralizer product can help me.

How does it work?
 
A lot of the rust "Converter" products are latex based,and do little.They change color to a dark tint to show they "work",but rust is soon to reappear.Blast the area,and repaint from scratch (primer,paint,clear).
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
A lot of the rust "Converter" products are latex based,and do little.They change color to a dark tint to show they "work",but rust is soon to reappear.Blast the area,and repaint from scratch (primer,paint,clear).


Should I sand it? What grit?
Small rust spots, they are above the windshield line
Would be my first time doing this
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
A lot of the rust "Converter" products are latex based,and do little.They change color to a dark tint to show they "work",but rust is soon to reappear.Blast the area,and repaint from scratch (primer,paint,clear).


Completely agree with this...
 
Maybe I'm naive but I thought they were supposed to deprive air to the area and stop it from spreading?

Agree that removing completely and primer and paint is the best way to go, the key with this being remove completely.
 
Originally Posted By: double vanos
What about a product like POR 15? Would it work ?
por15.com



Good question..

The spots are size of a quarter, or smaller. Above top of windshield.

Never treated rust before.
 
Yep, as Techno said they are a temporary band aid at best.

Sand paper it down to bare metal, often times this may be hard as it will be pitted from the corrosion. You need to get rust out of there also otherwise it'll come back.

Get some phosphoric acid, Home Depot sells a product called "Prep & Etch" with phosphoric acid as the main ingredient. Apply some to the area (use a cloth or q-tip soaked with the stuff) and make sure all of the rust turns black. Will probably take a few treatments. The bare metal reacts much slower with the acid and will take on a dull grey color.

Benefit is that the resulting phosphate coating (dull grey color) also acts as a barrier against oxygen. Use POR-15 or Eastwood's rust encapsulator and then finish it off with the color of your choice.
 
To sand they sell a little marker/pen like tool with fiberglass strands that can sand a tiny spot and not make it a lot larger.

If you get it to bare metal great, prime and paint. If not, try Loctite Extend then paint.
 
Theres a product called "DEPEND" that comes in spray and liquid.
It kills rush and turns it black. I've used it on variouls farm machinery and its good stuff. Would be useful if you're not going to sand and repaint the areas. If you do sand, you could put some on before repainting.
 
We have great luck here with POR15. It cannot "kill" rust, but it retards it VERY effectively in our service vehicles.

Note that our trucks are galvanized everywhere but the roof. We never had rust issues before we started using strong tile solutions, some of which are highly acidic. These inevitably leak in the vans and rust the floor near the back doors.

My new van (picking it up tomorrow!) is Rhino lined from the seats back everywhere! Roof, walls, and floor. I'm hoping this will help...
 
I just sand the area down to bare metal, spray with Rust-Oleum primer, then spray the matching color. This is usually good for about a year, then I repeat the process when it comes back...
 
Originally Posted By: grampi
I just sand the area down to bare metal, spray with Rust-Oleum primer, then spray the matching color. This is usually good for about a year, then I repeat the process when it comes back...


that's what I do too on the cab corners, wheel arches and rocker panels, then spray fluid film. I tried some eastwood rust encapsulator but not too impressed.
 
NHGUY said:
A lot of the rust "Converter" products are latex based,and do little.They change color to a dark tint to show they "work",but rust is soon to reappear.Blast the area,and repaint from scratch (primer,paint,clear). [/quote}

Well I have some experience with rust converters mainly Corroseal. Happens to be used by MARAD on the ships in the reserve fleet which get very rusty. Saw them using it when on some of the ships and decided to try it on the ship I restore. Needless to say it is a tough environment with wind, sun, fog, salt air and standing water.

I go over a deck with hammer and chisel before a wire wheel on Makita rotary. Then cover with Corroseal, let cure, next a moisture cured urethane tie coat followed by a catalyzed polyurethane deck gray. Some areas are now going on 3 years, and if I didn't miss a microscopic spot then nothing has come back. Used it a year ago on the steel engine mount of a Wildcat, pulled out of the Great Lakes, after the best cleaning we could do. Covered with two coats epoxy and I just looked today. Still spotless.

My take on POR-15 is that on my ship it is worthless. Couldn't handle standing water for even one rainy season before rust was back.
 
Last edited:
Some time ago we used a product CorrVerter on a lot of steel rusting panel sheets and when I saw it a few years later, it looked like the rusting didn't advance any. Seems to be good stuff.
 
The issue in question.

Up close:

IMG_20130411_105912_zpsa77d0447.jpg


Surrounding spots:

IMG_20130411_105938_zps3f3dffb8.jpg

IMG_20130411_105931_zps2eee8030.jpg

IMG_20130411_105926_zps5d5ffb5e.jpg

IMG_20130411_105951_zps54af0c68.jpg


And, from far away:

IMG_20130411_105942_zps27705bde.jpg

IMG_20130411_110002_zps2ebc0d03.jpg


So, based on that there, would would my best plan of attack be?

Great thread, as well. Thank you all!
 
Originally Posted By: tbm3fan
NHGUY said:
My take on POR-15 is that on my ship it is worthless. Couldn't handle standing water for even one rainy season before rust was back.


I would completely agree since it is not intended for outdoor use or exposure to sunlight.

It works GREAT inside a van!
 
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