Is what Renfield told the Doktor.
Body shop owner telling me this is rust popping up a year after he repaired the car.
- Thread starter mosaud1998
- Start date
1800 yup
No, he cut the metal out. Called me to come and see him so it. Crappy job
Appears to be low quality work to me.
If he claims it's rust, should be able to prove/disprove right?
If he claims it's rust, should be able to prove/disprove right?
This scope of work on a 2013 Honda Accord for $1800 that lasted 1.5yrs. I wouldn't give the guy any hassle. What you see is exactly why a busy body shop doesn't want to touch rust repairs if it's not a matter of just unbolting/unsnapping and popping on a new panel.
This is why he wanted to do that. Water will get in the welds from the cut out pieces and do exactly this. Also welded in pieces and the welds them selves move differently that the original solid piece. You went the cheap route and this is what happens.
Around here even with those blemishes it would be considered rust free.
A paint job lasting 1.5 years isn't bad?
That paint job lasting 1.5 years isn't bad.
Rust rearing it's ugly head in a couple of those pics.
Speaking from experience rust is very difficult to stop once it has started. The idea that a body-shop weld will be rustproof is nonsense. Yes there are weld-through type products that aim to protect as much of the metal as possible during and after the welding process. But nothing short of major effort will stop the corrosion.
Replacement sheet metal is often made from grades of steel that rust quickly. Any form of welding won't help either. There is a reason that some repairs years ago were riveted and then finished with lead (soldering really). As it would last longer before rusting again.
I sometimes use 308 stainless rod to weld mild steel, as it helps prevent rapid corrosion.
Speaking from experience rust is very difficult to stop once it has started. The idea that a body-shop weld will be rustproof is nonsense. Yes there are weld-through type products that aim to protect as much of the metal as possible during and after the welding process. But nothing short of major effort will stop the corrosion.
Replacement sheet metal is often made from grades of steel that rust quickly. Any form of welding won't help either. There is a reason that some repairs years ago were riveted and then finished with lead (soldering really). As it would last longer before rusting again.
I sometimes use 308 stainless rod to weld mild steel, as it helps prevent rapid corrosion.
Like someone mentioned previous, one HECK of a hack job. A really BAD job covering it up...
How so? Pretty sure a rattle-can from Walmart would last longer than that.
Like you said, even parts that do not appear to be affected by rust seem to be cracking/peeling. Curious how that would be considered "not bad" by any standard.
I'm not an auto body guy so just trying to understand the thought process.
Do you have any, before, pictures for reference? Unload that puppy before the rust actually pokes through the paint. And only show it at night or when it's raining. 
These types of repairs always rust from the inside out. The paint bubbling is from the rust underneath. The only way to prevent this is by getting at the back side of it and coating it with something like fluid film or cavity wax.
Yep, the shop really should have passed on even quoting this work, this is always how it is going to turn out. My MIL was getting quotes to repair rust on an old Corolla, and a shop actually quoted it! The strut tower was rusted through, I'd love to know how they planned to fix that.
First and fourth pics it’s rust bubbles pretty much 100%. This paint job was basically a spray bomb. Likely the metal on the other side is totally bare. That’s how these hacks do it.
Pretty sure a rattle can job can last longer than this.
The thing is whether you do the crappiest job ever or do extremely expensive proper work without full replacement it’s still gonna rust after a few years.
Rust repairs are always a loosing battle and are always a waste of time and money.
Done properly on both sides will still be garbage after a max of 5 years, unless you are in a lab with ecoat no matter how good your aftermarket shop is it’s gonna turn to garbage after a relatively short time.
Do you have any, before, pictures for reference? Unload that puppy before the rust actually pokes through the paint. And only show it at night or when it's raining.
Pics are on post #1 in this thread:
Question about body work
So, we're thinking about getting body work done on my dad's 2013 Honda Accord. Got a quote from a body shop for $1,100. He said he's going to touch up the front bumper, Bondo the rear passenger side door, and paint both the rear passenger side door and drivers side door to blend the paint, paint...
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